PC polishing with Meguiars 105... drying to fast!

[Joshs2013MSAltimaSL]

I used M105 for the first time the other night. I, like many of you, have been using Menzerna, but after all the talk of it from some very top notch detailers, I decided to give it a whirl. I found that it does dry too fast, but it was also a very humid night here in Florida, and with the halogens on the paint, it probably didn't make things better. My conclusion is that I did not have my wool pad primed enough so any product I was using was getting sucked into the pad. Try priming your pad a little more and continue working with it. I wouldn't give up on it because it is a great product, one that, as of right now, stands above anything Menzerna offers.

 

[craigdt]

I too have had many of the frustrations that you guys have had with 105. Then I finally started listening to Accumulator.



I cut my work area down to about 1x1 and used only 4" pads. I get a lot less dusting and better results. It also helps to work in cooler humid weather.

 

[Flashtime]

I'm a rotary guy and haven't tried M105 with a foam pad. Can't imagine how

effective this would be, but with a wool pad at around 900rpm (slow & low temps)

it is very efficient (on fresh paint). Lightly mist w/ water, one cross bead, spread

600, work 1'x1' @ 900/1000rpm. It can be finicky at times but overall very efficient.

 

[jpochile]

I use M105 with both a Makita rotary and a Makita dual action .I just light mist the pad with FK425 and it works great . I do use a little lower RPM with M105 . Super nice finish

At the begining is weird coming from Menzerma products , but you get use to it .



Cheers , Jean Paul

 

[imported_rusty bumper]

I use M105 with both a Makita rotary and a Makita dual action .I just light mist the pad with FK425 and it works great . I do use a little lower RPM with M105 . Super nice finish

At the begining is weird coming from Menzerma products , but you get use to it .



Cheers , Jean Paul

Is that the equivalent of Meguiars #34 (Final Inspection)?

 

[Accumulator]

Yamaha0219- DO NOT use 3M PI-III ECRC 05936 with a G110. Seriously.



It's an old-school rotary-only compound and using it with the G110 will quite probably leave hazing (from the initial cut) that'll be a whole lot worse than whatever you're trying to fix. I like the stuff, but it's *ONLY* for use with a rotary and IMO it's a product best left to exerienced people any how.



If the M105/4" (or 3.5" PFW) won't do the job, then the job shouldn't be done. And M105 is probably the most aggressive stuff out there that's G110-iriendly.



And usually, in the case of true clear coat failure, you're better off *NOT* getting really aggressive because it merely extends the area of failure and messes up the exposed basecoat. I treat failed areas rather gently and that seems to work well (the '93 Audi I just picked up has *LOTS* of failure and the work I did on it last year has held up pretty well).

I too have had many of the frustrations that you guys have had with 105. Then I finally started listening to Accumulator...

Heh heh, that was gratifying to read, thanks for posting it.

Is [FK425] the equivalent of Meguiars #34 (Final Inspection)?

Well, it's the same idea. I'm not trying to :argue with jpochile, so I hope it doesn't come across that way, but FK425 and #34 are really only similar in that they're both QDs with significant lubricity- way *MORE* than just "significant" in the case of FK425.



FK425 (which I use by the gallon) has too much "stuff" in it for me to use it like that. #34 is a much "cleaner" QD that hardly leaves anything behind. It's sorta like FK425 is "too good" at what it does for me to use this way.



Hey, jpochile, by all means keep doing what works for you :xyxthumbs

 

[gmblack3]

Please see my sig for tips when using M105 with a PC.



Do not use water w/ M105 when using foam pads. This causes the abrasives to clump up, which means they will marr the surface and not cut.



I only use water (some use #34) when using M105 with the surbuf pads/PC.

 

[Accumulator]

..Do not use water w/ M105 when using foam pads. This causes the abrasives to clump up, which means they will marr the surface...

Well, I'd modify that just a bit to read "This *can* cause the abrasives to clump up.."



Heh heh, couldn't quite resist that if only because I've never had a problem using distilled water to reactivate M105. But I do put that in the "don't try this at home, kids" category so it's not like we really disagree or anything. Sure have to keep an eye on the pads if you're gonna do that!

 

[Envious Eric]

just use it once, leave the residue on the panel, and rework the panel with another application of 105 on the pad. It will dust a bunch with that method, but results are good because you are continuing to use the non diminishing abrasives from the first go around...its a compound, you arent going to finish with it, and you are going to get some dusting, just the nature of the product. I personally don't want 5 minutes of working time with 105, I like the short working time! I would rather spend the extra time with a finishing polish like FPII and REALLY amp the gloss level!



I really don't get what is so hard with 105 and the whole KBM and all that jazz...I get great results just applying to the foam pad, putting the machine on the paint, turning it on, working for 4, 1/2overlapping passes (up and down, left to right, up and down, left to right), not to mention I probably use less product than the KBM. It's pretty simple to use, just like most other polishes. (not that the KBM doesnt work, I just dont use it personally)



I use the pc (now pcxp), speed 6, flat 5.5" detailersdomain uber orange pad and 105 on most of my details...works like a charm!

 

[wannafbody]

Maybe try cutting M105 with some Megs Ultimate Compound to increase working time.

 

[JeffM]

Ya UC worked great for me, i would go with that.

 

[imported_rusty bumper]

Maybe try cutting M105 with some Megs Ultimate Compound to increase working time.

UC has good buff time from what I've seen.



Wonder if it would pay to mix some 105 & UC together?

 

[Accumulator]

..I personally don't want 5 minutes of working time with 105, I like the short working time! I would rather spend the extra time with a finishing polish like FPII and REALLY amp the gloss level!



I really don't get what is so hard with 105 ...

Yeah, I too love the short work time (even if there have been a few cases where I reactivated it), and I found the M105 learning curve nice and steep. That product and I simply get along well.



The quicker I can get this stuff done the better. There are some undoubtedly good products that I simply hate using in large part because of their long work times. I'd rather spend more time burnishing too, the major correction isn't my idea of fun.



Those of us who use variations on/approximations of the KBM probably have a greater interest in reactivating M105, since the pads are maybe a little more loaded with product (though not as much as some might think). No need to do it with M205 it seems, probably because that stuff's so oily.



But I don't seem to be using *more* product with these methods overall, at least not much. But then I don't add much after doing the thorough priming either...as I said, I'm probably not doing a strict version of the KBM (I do look forward to reading his paper if only for some good clarification of what he does).



FWIW, Kevin and I have discussed this stuff directly, and while we don't do everything exactly the same, we don't :argue or anything. We just do some things a little differently and I guess neither of us finds the differences significant enough to spend much time talking about. I get the feeling that he's not as dogmatic about the KBM as some people might expect, and not as much so as some stricter adherents to his methodology.

 

[nonsensez9]

For a PC, Ultimate Compound is awesome. Even in direct sun at about 85 degrees it had a good work time. Swirl-X, on the other hand, dries up pretty quickly even in the shade.