pc leave buffer marks?

C

cheapshot

New member
i noticed a few buffer marks on a friends black car i'm working on? tryied 50/50 water/iso and it's lighted it up, but it's still there, could it be my wiping that not removing all the product? or could this be marks in the clear? please help, i used dacp and cutting pad, i think i'm in trouble.
 
DACP and a cutting pad will often cause marring. Go over the area agian with DACP and a polishising pad. This should clear it up.
 
thanks steve, it was just #80 left on from not wiping well enough. steve have you been using dacp w cutting on the pc? becuse i have a few question?
 
Originally posted by cheapshot

i noticed a few buffer marks on a friends black car i'm working on? … i used dacp and cutting pad, ...
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Originally posted by cheapshot

…it was just #80 left on from not wiping well enough. steve have you been using dacp w cutting on the pc? …
Click to expand...



For clarification…Did you use Meg’s DA/CP #83 or Speed Glaze #80?



There are a number of people who have used DACP with a cutting pad. My personal experiences with DACP and a cutting pad left little (if any) visible marring. I still followed with a polish, because... I know I’ve read several that have gone straight from DACP to their LSP though. You do need to work the product well.



If you have a polish and a polishing pad you should be able to take care of whatever marks remain. Or absent another polish, go back over the car with DACP and the polishing pad. I doubt you are in much trouble.
 
all on pc w/meguires pads

2 passes dacp/ burgandy cutting pad

3 passes #80/ yellow polishing pad



i work the product till the thin film becomes almost invisible, leaving me with very little to wipe. may just be those two spots i didn't wipe well enough.



the marks looked like this (((((( i took megs QD and a mf towel and they were gone!, i saw this as i was leaving the house for work, and became paranoid. but i have some releaf now.



scottwax, i know you use dacp, and 80 on lots of your cars. did you ever have micro marring issues? keep in mind i used meguires burgandy cutting pad with dacp. i spoke to technical support and they said the cutting pad is not recommended for use with the pc. i got a lot of it out, i'm anal, and the car is black!

if you have a way of getting this out please post. i was thinking menz fp, ssr1, or 2, but i have never used these. as i am just starting out. thanks





ps. hoping that i don't need a rotary to fix this, but i'll be probrably picking one over winter for spring.
 
I use a cutting pad on my PC for those hard to deal with scratches and I've never had any problems :nixweiss I usually go back over the area using a polishing pad and the same polish to make sure I don't leave any marring though. Here's a before and after using DACP with a cutting pad, then DACP with Polishing pad and then a brief once over with #80 and polishing pad.



118-1844_IMG.JPG


118-1856_IMG.JPG
 
labster your pics look great! but it's hard to capture the micro marring i'm talking about, the car is also black. i tried to follow with polishing pad, still wasn't enough. maybe scottwax will have a salution. i'm tapped!
 
Try another line of polish/pads beside Meguiars.

I use Lake Country and 1z ,Menzerna and occasionally 3M now. My car is black ( tough Audi paint) The DACP usually only sees rotary practice
 
the PC won't do burn through or do anything that you can't fix. The DACP with the cutting pad is a pretty aggressive combo. try go over it again with a lighter process like everyone is telling you to do. IF this doesn't work, then its something that was there before, most likely. just calm down, and do what everyone is telling you to do. its like sanding something smooth, you can't be done after you use 100 grit, you gotta work your way down to a nice smooth finish, polishing is the same way. Sometimes you gotta aggressive, which doens't leave a perfect finish, then work your way to that perfect finihs, the top with a wax or sealent. good luck. pics would help a lot!.



Vernon
 
i see the popularity with poorboys ssr's and menzerna polishes. i'll have to try a few out, just cause i'm curious.



but i don't think its a matter of polish. it's pc vs. rotary and what you can and can't do. i was really pushing the pc, with the car i was working on, and considering, very very little haze left, i got all of the swirls and fine scratches out! and i'll post pics when i'm done. i'm currenly looking into buying and learning the rotary, theres no way around it. you could get great result with the pc, there no doubts, even fix some nasty defects. but with some skill and knowledge, the rotary will do this with ease. then the pc could finish it up to a perfect shine!, if you ask me personally, i would say dacp is a bit to agressive for the pc. i feel the polish needs the rotary to perform accurately. if your car is realtively new the pc is fine, and #80, should be able to do it nice. not my case however, 97 jetta with very bad swirls and fine scratches. this car had rotary written all over it. here a link of some pics.



http://www.autopia.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=44706&perpage=12&pagenumber=1
 
cheapshot said:
thanks steve, it was just #80 left on from not wiping well enough. steve have you been using dacp w cutting on the pc? becuse i have a few question?
Click to expand...



I have used DACP with a cutting pad several times. Sometimes I get marring sometimes I don't. Depends on the paint. I notice it more on darker colors. Also some paints are softer than others. IF I do use a cutting pad I always follow up with a polishing pad. I don't use DACP much anymore I like 3M Perfect it III Rubbing Compound better.
 
i have some 3M perfect-it II rubbing compound (fine cut) this bottle is very old, i used to do a few cars by hand, and i found this worked pretty well. is the perfectit II and III lines any diiffer? how does this compare to dacp as far as agressiveness.



the store where i used to get my 3m stuff, is really big on presta 4000, or something like that, and i personally don't like to give the guy buisness he is very rude and obnoxious.
 
I'm still using some PI II RC (39002) until I run out and then I'm switching to PI III RC. The PI II is a little more aggressive but does dust a LOT more. It can be quite messy at times, that's why I'm switching.



I believe both products are stronger than DACP and easier to work with, IMHO.
 
i'm assuming these compounds are for rotary use and not pc, because, i though dacp was a little to agressive for the pc with cutting or polishing pad.



the one i got is (39002), what the perfect-it III part #?



i take it you use these products for pretty nasy jobs. because i thought dacp was pretty strong. however i did not use rotary.:o
 
Hmm..not in my experience, in fact, I would've needed DACP with a rotary to get the job done correctly, with a PC, not enough "umph"; and that was on cars other than my two with tough paint.
 
With a PC and now Cyclo, I don't know if it's necessarily more abrasive, but I resort now to 1z PP, I'm also going to give 3m PI III RC a shot ( on my scrap fenders first) only to save on the time you have to allow for DACP to break down fully. At the moment I almost always reach for 1z PP first if I need to use a dual action machine on any defect.



I have used stuff more abrasive than DACP via D/A sometimes. Namely, 1z Ultra Paint Polish. I used it on my 15 year old white Caddy paint ,which laughed at it and most recently, a futile :( last attempt to correct some light scratches on black Mercedes Ceramiclear paint. Only made its own micromarring, then I had to polish that out with the 1z and Menzerna Final Polish.
 
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