PakShak Vs Adam's Vs Cobra for Polishing

Accumulator said:
<span style="font-size:18px;"><sub>GBynum- If you like the SIlver Surfers I'd just stick with them.</sub>


 


<span style="font-size:18px;"><sub>My Fords have "medium" clear that's a nice compromise, but yours is newer and might be different.</sub>


Yeah, I probably should. I just thought I could save some money, but if I end up not liking the Adam's towels, then I'm just wasting even more money.


 


I have also considered some Chemical Guys towels that are supposed to be shorter nap. And I know Griot's has those white polishing towels, but I have heard they are either really fantastic or horribly awful.
 
GBynum- Eh, I really think that at this point you should just stay with what you know works for you, i.e., the Silver Surfers.
 
Just a heads up if you ever find yourself in the "hard to remove situation" again, take some detail spray and spritz the towel and the panel. If you don't have detail spray use water. I always spritz my towels with detail spray before they touch paint for any reason. I use a variety of towels(Adams/Uber/Cobra) and also carry MF towels.
 
I ordered 3 CG polishing towels just to check them out. They were cheap on Amazon recently. It's about 0 degrees, so I won't get to check them out for a while, but we'll see. They're a little fluffier than the Pakshak, but not by much.


 
M-D said:
Just a heads up if you ever find yourself in the "hard to remove situation" again, take some detail spray and spritz the towel and the panel. If you don't have detail spray use water. I always spritz my towels with detail spray before they touch paint for any reason. I use a variety of towels(Adams/Uber/Cobra) and also carry MF towels.


 


What if you're waxing/sealing, doesn't that remove too much product? I have Meg's Ult Quick Detailer and Final Inspection. Got any other recommendations?
 
BlueBeast14GT- Unless there's some weird interaction between the QD and the LSP there shouldn't be an issue, not that *I* generally do that anyhow.  I myself fog the surface with my breath as I buff the wax/sealant residue off and that always works fine for me.


 


That's for waxes/sealants.  With polishes I buff 'em off before they dry completely so it's just not an issue.  BUT when using M105 (or other aggressive nondiminishing compounds) I do use a little spritz of that M34 Final Inspection to help reduce any micromarring from the buffing off.  FWIW that's about all I use M34 for, preferring other QDs for most anything else.
 
Accumulator & M-D  -


 


Honestly, when I'm working on my car, I sweat too much for the breath technique to work. I'll be dripping on the paint. Although, I wonder if sweat is abrasive...  :wacko:


 


Anyway, I'll try the method you and M-D suggested with the QD. Would that also work with <span style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">a rinseless wash product, as you suggested I use when drying in the "Detailing a fresh paint job" thread?


Thanks for the tip, guys, I hope it works. I think the Meg's polish just dries really fast. I have seen other people on here with the same issue, but I'd hate to waste it. Got any suggestions for a comparable polish (not too abrassive, just swirls and such. it is a new car after all)?


 


<span style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">When you use that method for wax/sealant removal, is it to make the removal easier or the avoid marring the paint with the towel? M-D, it sounds like you're trying to avoid marring. 


 


<span style="color:rgb(40,40,40);font-family:'helvetica neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">And I've never heard of Uber. I'll check it out, thanks.
 
BlueBeast14GT- The breath-fog technique oughta work regardless, I've used it in my previous (non-airconditioned) shop when it was well over 90 and very humid.  Too hot/humid for the condensation to show up, but it still helped.  Anyhow...


 


You shouldn't need the QD with the rinseless wash as that oughta have at least as much lubricity as the QD.


 


Yeah, some Meguiar's polishes do flash off very quickly, some people (myself included) like the shhort worktime, others don't.


 


I'm *VERY* favorably impressed with the HD line of compounds/polishes.  I resisted trying them for quite a while (eh, they own this site and I'm nobody'd fanboy) but I gotta say they're the most user- friendly products of their type that I've ever tried in thirty-some years of doing this stuff.


 


The towel shouldn't mar, period.  If it's not soft enough to never mar the paint, replace it with one that is.  I use the QD with M105 (and that's generally the only product I bother doingit with) because the M105 is quite abrasive and the abrasives in it *NEVER* break down; it's just as abrasive when you "buff off the product when it's done" as it is when it comes out of the bottle.  The carrying agents and oils dry out/dissipate, but the abrasives stay the same and rubbing them across/into the paint during the buff-off can cause micromarring.
 
I didn't mean using the QD and rinseless wash together. I just meant to ask if the rinseless wash could be used here in place of QD.


 


I think once I get more experienced I would like the shorter work time. As it is I take entirely too long, but for now I need something I can work with without screwing up and leaving holograms and such.


 


Thank you for another expert suggestion :)


 


Not to worry, I have invested heavily in my MFs. I see what you mean, makes sense.


 


By the way, I found a small shop that supplies many of the local detailers here. I went in last night and the owner confirmed for me that Meg's did end production of M05. They're sticking with just M07, despite their differences. So you may want to stock up now while you still can.
 
BlueBeast14GT- Thanks for the info, but I probably have more than enough M05 for this lifetime ;)  Also have 3M's Imperial Hand Glaze (another fresh-paint-safe product) in case I somehow decide the OCW approach isn't OK.


 


On the M07, all I use *that* for is the timemachine-effect of its scent, takes me right back to the '60s-'70s.


 


For polish residue buffing, I'd stick with a "clean" QD such as M34 instead of a rinseless wash, if only because I suspect there'd be less stuff left behind on the paint.  Note that even M34 (about the "cleanest" QD I know of) leaves a tiny little bit of stuff behind.
 
16 x 16 grey "miner" towels from The Rag Company rock for polish/wax/QD removal. And at $2.95 and free shipping on Fridays, the price can't be beat either. 
 
I have a few plush ones that I got from Costco a few years back and they're great for drying off the car after a wash. However, the short nap 16X16 ones have always worked great for everything else. I can't see spending more than a few bucks on one. More than $8 a piece is pure lunacy! I get some very nice ones at a local shop for $25 an 18pk. Hasn't let me down yet.
 
Scottwax said:
16 x 16 grey "miner" towels from The Rag Company rock for polish/wax/QD removal. And at $2.95 and free shipping on Fridays, the price can't be beat either. 


Nice deal man, I'll check these out too. Thanks!


 
WaxManRonnie said:
I have a few plush ones that I got from Costco a few years back and they're great for drying off the car after a wash. However, the short nap 16X16 ones have always worked great for everything else. I can't see spending more than a few bucks on one. More than $8 a piece is pure lunacy! I get some very nice ones at a local shop for $25 an 18pk. Hasn't let me down yet.


I fully agree. I don't think I've paid that much for a single towel, well, except some big drying waffle weaves.


But for a standard microfiber, yeah that's nuts. I always try to find deals. 


 


 


Speaking of deals, I got some green 16x16 edgeless polishing towels from AG a couple weeks ago when the 3 packs were BOGO. They seem really similar to those white CG polishing towels I got. Both towels seem to have just slightly longer nap on one side. I figure when I wipe off the polish I'll start with the short nap to get the bulk then do a second wipe with the longer side to clean up any leftovers. It's still cold as ish so I still haven't had a chance to try either. 


I also want to try the GG white polishing towels with the red edge. I have heard such mixed results, but I saw them in store at Advance Auto Parts and they feel really nice. AAP tend to put their GG stuff on sale so I'm just gonna keep an eye on them and wait.


 


I'll let you guys know how all these work out. ...Eventually haha. Then maybe this thread can also help somebody down the line that doesn't feel like trying them all out.
 
M-D said:
Just a heads up if you ever find yourself in the "hard to remove situation" again, take some detail spray and spritz the towel and the panel. If you don't have detail spray use water. I always spritz my towels with detail spray before they touch paint for any reason. I use a variety of towels(Adams/Uber/Cobra) and also carry MF towels.
Accumulator said:
BlueBeast14GT- Unless there's some weird interaction between the QD and the LSP there shouldn't be an issue, not that *I* generally do that anyhow.  I myself fog the surface with my breath as I buff the wax/sealant residue off and that always works fine for me.


 


That's for waxes/sealants.  With polishes I buff 'em off before they dry completely so it's just not an issue.  BUT when using M105 (or other aggressive nondiminishing compounds) I do use a little spritz of that M34 Final Inspection to help reduce any micromarring from the buffing off.  FWIW that's about all I use M34 for, preferring other QDs for most anything else.


 


So I thought I'd come back to this thread with a new question that is somewhat related to these suggestions.


 


I have been seeing a lot of people talking about doing a pre-LSP wipedown for 2 reasons: 1 to check their work and make sure the swirls etc were truly removed and not just filled; 2. to make sure all the compound/polish/oils (henceforth referred to as C3PO) are off before applying an LSP. Sounds great, but the chemicals they use vary, so I wanted to get your input. Here are the choices:


 
  1. IPA - Most popular, great at removing C3PO, but many say they avoid it because it's streaky, and others say it's bad for the paint. I have seen one person say you should at least rinse/dry the car after, but that seems like a huge PITA. Plus if I'm using your advise of using ONR or QD when I dry, then that leads to problems since those leave behind protective chems, and the idea is to get the paint completely bare.
  2. MS - Seems to be a popular alternative to IPA because it also removes C3PO well, but it wipes off clean. But people also say they choose MS because they don't want IPA on their paint. It seems to me that MS would be just as bad for the paint as IPA, and some seem to agree.
  3. APC - Supposed to be good at removing C3PO, but some say it leaves some APC chems behind since it doesn't fully evaporate like IPA.
  4. ONR (or some other no rinse wash) - People it for the reasons they like ONR anyway, but by its nature it definitely leaves protective chems behind.
  5. QD - Basically same as ONR except people say it won't do as good of a job of removing.
  6. Meg's 34 - Listed this separately from QD since it is supposed to be made for inspecting results, even though I'm pretty sure it is a QD. So I guess it's better at removing C3PO than standard QD?
  7. Prewax Cleaner/Paint Cleaner - I don't know if there's a difference between the two, and honestly I've only seen Prewax mentioned, I just added Paint Cleaner because I saw it elsewhere and thought it might be the same thing. I thought that Prewax Cleaner was like a polish though, and applied by machine, so if that's so then it seems like you're just trading one for the other.
  8. Others - I'm sure there are others, but after reading tons of conflicting opinions I got burnt out.

A couple tidbits you should know: I mix my 91% IPA to about a 12% solution, I don't do 50/50 like many others. The only APC I have used is SimpleGreen. I think the people using APCs are referring to APCs that are made for detailing, like Meg's or Optimum, so I don't know if SimpleGreen would work too.


 


Again, sorry for the novel. I just try to be thorough so you guys know exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks in advance for the help!
 
BlueBeast14GT- I absolutely would *NOT* use those Griot's towels (the white-with-red-border ones).  I sent mine back after seeing what they did to paint.


 


One your product Qs:


 


1) I find IPA to be mediocre at best when it comes to removing oils.  I *GREATLY* prefer PrepWash/AkraClean (I think the latter is what they call it now) from Top of the Line.  Or use the Eraser stuff that everybody here likes.


 


2) I must be having a brain-pause....what's "MS"?


 


3) Eh, I never use APC for this, not enough lubricrity or encapsulation and you need to really RINSE it off.


 


4) ONR I don't use it for this for the reason you mentioned.


 


5) & 6) I use M34 (and M34 only) when buffing off certain polishes/compounds, primarily to buffer/encapsulate the abrasives to minimize micro-marring.  I do *NOT* expect it to remove oils.


 


7) Be careful as many such products can diminish the gloss of good Finishing Polishes.  As you suspected, these are often mighty close to being "polishes".  I use such stuff *instead of* mild polishes, when I use Paint Cleanes at all (which isn't all that often other than some All-In- One products).


 


8) I'd caution against getting too caught up in the minutia of this stuff.  Compound until problems are gone, maybe use something to remove oils/etc. to ensure accurate assessment; Finish Polish, maybe use something to remove oils/etc. (note that "maybe" ;) yeah, that's Autopian Heresy but I'm saying it anyhow!), do your LSP, reapply same now and then before it needs doing.


 


Oh, and while I don't hate the stuff the way some people do, I simply don't use Simple Green on cars.  And I seldom dilute IPA on the rare occasions that I use it.
 
Yeah it took me a bit to figure out MS as well. It's Mineral Spirits. 


 


Which products do you use M34 with? 
 
Ah, roger that on the MS. I've never used it for detailing.


 


I only use M34 when buffing off aggressive non-diminishing compounds, primarily M105.  I use it for very gentle cleaning of some other things, including some antiques, but for detailing it's just for buffering the "finished working"-M105.  For other QDing tasks there are countless other QDs that I like better.
 
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