Paint Leveling with HD UNO

Bill D said:
For anyone at home who may have to resort to spot sanding with 1200-4000 grit discs, can we use a basic PC and a hook and loop backing plate to get similar results?
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You can absolutely use a PC with the sanding/finishing discs -- I use the Meguiar's Unigrit discs on mine and the results are no different than you'd get with a pneumatic sander (unless the air DA you use has a 3/32" stroke -- which results in a finer scratch pattern).



How is Uno to wipe off? Does it respond/look well after a IPA wipe and a final inspection?
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I won't speak to how wipe-off is since I've been having some quirky issues with that aspect of the product... but I can say that it does look awesome after an IPA wipe-down.
 
Finally got the Uno/poxy deal the other day. I am dying to use it but am running out of cars. Not a pro like some of you guys.
 
Thomas thanks for chiming in here with all your advice. Your experiance with HD UNO really shows. I can't wait to watch you in action with it. I love to learn.



Accumulator said:
So you do it the "regular old way" with an "X" or "ring of product" or "a few dots" rather than uniformly loading the pad?
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Accumulator,



I would recomend primming the pad in a uniform way. Heres why. Your not working the product till it drys away like a traditional diminishing abraisive. The abrasives won't breakdown as they are non diminishing. So if something doens't break down you want complete uniformity through out the polishing cycle. In order to do this pad priming is a must.



Look at it like sanding if your using it by a DA. Imagine if your sand paper only had an abrasive ring around. Or it only had abrasive's spread in a X patern. There would be a really ugly mess sanding this way. It wouldn't matter how much equal pressure you had. The rotation of the pad would be way out of sync. Everything would grab and pull. When the product is spread uniformly the abrasive is in constant movement. Constantly allowing the pad to move in a equal pattern randomly. If that makes any sense lol. you could look at it like this.



Imagine a sheet of metal spinning on paint. Now imagine the abrasive being marbles. With a ring of marbles as the pad spins it will leaves a constant ring with every rotation. The marbles won't disapear at all, but will only bouce uniformly. Even know the bounce uniformly up and down they won't cover all area's and you'll be left with circular lines everywhere. Now imagine if you had equal coverage of marbles threwout the entire sheet of metal. They would all be in contact at the same time, creating a complete uniform look.



Hopefully some of that makes sense! :twitch:
 
Barry Theal- Yeah, that's *exactly* what I had been thinking.



Those "non-diminishing abrasive" points (like it being the same idea as sandpaper) are why I woulda primed it as per KMB, but it sounds like tdekany is saying *NOT* to do it that way :think:
 
Accumulator,



Thats the best thing about this business, as a carguy or detailer we all are looking for ways to better our cars appearence. Wheather would be from the perfect shine, or complete protection. We all can go about it different ways and still find an end result that is eye catching. I think it the ones with an open mind will only improve. With so many talented detailers practicing the fundementals of polishing, there has to be different ways of acheiving the same results. I often always tell my employees and people I train. I can only teach you so much, you have take what I taught you and make it your own. A common example of this is Kevin Brown. His science behind the craft of polishing has for ever changed me. Up until him, I would constantly do things the same way. Now when Kevin writes something, I study it like a book. A big part of my personal succes has come from these forums. While the advice was always there on them, Until I decided to humble myself and listen to others is when greatness was acheived. Today I constantly learn something new everyday, and for that I am thankfull. :xyxthumbs
 
Alfisti said:
Just tried V3 this afternoon. It was so easy to use and seemed to remove most blemishes with just a few deep scratches left behind. No dust and no probs removing residue. This was my first attempt with UNO. I was using a Mak BO6040 with forced-rotation and an orange cutting pad. Nothing as aggressive as a rotary and wool.



I'll pull it out in the sun tomorrow to check the results. :up
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Glad it was an easy process for ya. How do you like the Makita? I often wanted to purchase that tool, but never did. Maybe I need to buy one now!





Alfisti said:
Barry, just a question.



How does the Surehold Polisher differ from the Meguiars model?
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I don't own the g110v2 so I can't compare them. I can tell you I really love the surehold polisher. My random orbital polishers take a beating. This one has held the best so far. We usally go threw about 1 a month and I think we are on 3 to 4 months with this one and still going like day 1. I love it.







Alfisti said:
How often do you need to clean the pad with Uno, and which way works best?
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I clean my pads after every pass. I do this with any compound or polishing I'm using. A clean pad is key.



Alfisti said:
Can someone answer my questions please? :D
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Do you have anymore? LOL Hopefully I answered them all. Sorry I missed them. I scroll threw the thread rather quickly earlier and it looked like Thomas did a great job answering everyones thread. My apologies.
 
Thanks very much Barry. I appreciate your responses. No need to apologize...I'm sure you're busy enough.



What method do you use to clean your pads?



As for the BO6040, it's an excellent machine that feels unbreakable. It makes a PC look like a toy in its effectiveness and speed. However, it can be tiring to use. Because its concentric rotation is 'forced' and locked it tends to fight you a lot, so it needs some strength to hold it, especially on the vertical panels. It has a bit of learning curve but its worth a try.
 
Accumulator thank you for asking all the questions I was going to lol, some great info here thanks everyone

How do you clean your pads? Compressed air or clean on the fly with a towel?
 
So we can use UNO instead of 105/205, so its like a AIO that gets deep scratches, man seems like a time saver, you agree?



And when I was 105/205 I would put 2 drops then make 3 passes, then put 2 more drops on it then make 3 more passes, is that a good idea? Or should I just make 6 passes with it drying out I tried to always keep it wet, and not dusting. So should I keep it wet or should I let it dry and keep polishing?
 
It is not an AIO as it has no protection to it. The cut depends on the pad used so it can compound, polish and jewel depending on the pad. It is similar to M105 minus the dust from what I am gathering
 
Barry Theal said:
Thomas thanks for chiming in here with all your advice. Your experiance with HD UNO really shows. I can't wait to watch you in action with it. I love to learn.
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This old guy can only teach you "Hungarian". You better have your Nike's on because you'll want to run once you see "me" hacking - I mean detailing.
 
tdekany said:
This old guy can only teach you "Hungarian". You better have your Nike's on because you'll want to run once you see "me" hacking - I mean detailing.
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Heh heh, that's telling him :chuckle: :xyxthumbs
 
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