Optimum Polish with PC experiences?

I used it on my hood with a white LC pad, just to mess around, take off some waterspots, and i had one long marring from a brush.



It did remove that "line" but it produced a very deep, wet shine.



Im not sure if i really liked how long it was workable with the PC though. I mean....i might have spent 4 or 5 minutes on a 2x2 area, and even then i could have gone longer i think.



Maybe i should try it on a higher speed, or maybe i used too much product. Dunno, my first time with it.
 
I have a bottle coming from PakShak.



I bought this polish for two reasons....



1. I heard it doesn't dust bad at all, which would be a major plus when polishing my black RSX.

2. Seems like a good polish to use while learning how to use the rotary. I still haven't used my CE rotary yet :grinno:
 
I have a bottle coming from PakShak.



I bought this polish for two reasons....



1. I heard it doesn't dust bad at all, which would be a major plus when polishing my black RSX.

2. Seems like a good polish to use while learning how to use the rotary. I still haven't used my CE rotary yet :grinno:
 
JohnnyDaJackal said:
I have a bottle coming from PakShak.



I bought this polish for two reasons....



1. I heard it doesn't dust bad at all, which would be a major plus when polishing my black RSX.

2. Seems like a good polish to use while learning how to use the rotary. I still haven't used my CE rotary yet :grinno:
Click to expand...





It is an excellent polish to use while learning Rotary techniques for the reason's you just specified.



While others have reported differently, it's been my experience that this product should not be used in the sun and/or on hot to touch panels. Just a tip for when you start out.
 
JohnnyDaJackal said:
I have a bottle coming from PakShak.



I bought this polish for two reasons....



1. I heard it doesn't dust bad at all, which would be a major plus when polishing my black RSX.

2. Seems like a good polish to use while learning how to use the rotary. I still haven't used my CE rotary yet :grinno:
Click to expand...





It is an excellent polish to use while learning Rotary techniques for the reason's you just specified.



While others have reported differently, it's been my experience that this product should not be used in the sun and/or on hot to touch panels. Just a tip for when you start out.
 
zimmerDN ...Well, at onetime there was info on the Kleen car site that talked about Optimum Polish.

Apparently Kevin Farrell had something to do with the R&D of OP. I guess he revised his site and removed it.



However, I found many helpful tips reading his articles, like the one on buffing pads. I know from using OP that you can change the "aggressiveness" of the polish just by changing to a diff pad and speed. I've only had experience using OP with the PC. So far I like the results. In fact it's the only polish that I now use.





JJ - check out Roadfly.com. There is a nice article from the winter on Mothers Power Polish. If I hadn't started using OP I probably would be using MPP. They sound very similar.
 
zimmerDN ...Well, at onetime there was info on the Kleen car site that talked about Optimum Polish.

Apparently Kevin Farrell had something to do with the R&D of OP. I guess he revised his site and removed it.



However, I found many helpful tips reading his articles, like the one on buffing pads. I know from using OP that you can change the "aggressiveness" of the polish just by changing to a diff pad and speed. I've only had experience using OP with the PC. So far I like the results. In fact it's the only polish that I now use.





JJ - check out Roadfly.com. There is a nice article from the winter on Mothers Power Polish. If I hadn't started using OP I probably would be using MPP. They sound very similar.
 
Well, I've personally found that while OCP works well with a PC

and a maroon pad, it definitely takes a bit longer to knock down

mariring than SSR2.5. But it does manage to leave behind a

clearer finish without any more followup. Still though, I prefer

to use OCP with the rotary so I. can get done faster.
 
Well, I've personally found that while OCP works well with a PC

and a maroon pad, it definitely takes a bit longer to knock down

mariring than SSR2.5. But it does manage to leave behind a

clearer finish without any more followup. Still though, I prefer

to use OCP with the rotary so I. can get done faster.
 
We are discovering that OCP if over applied, meaning you are saturating your pad, can lose a bit of its cutting/polishing properties due to the presence of the lubrication oils. These oils act as a buffing barrier between your rotary and the paint as OCP and OCC were designed around rotary use. These are not fillers oils as some suggest. It is best to use slightly more the first time to prime the pad and from then on use alot less.



Some people use too much OCP, saturate their pad and then comment how it doesn't work well. This is not a bad thing as it testifies to the lubricating properties of the polish and unlike many conventional polishes which dry and dust meaning you need more product, OCP needs less product after your initial prime.



I use about a dollar coin size to prime, buff an area then after that all I need is about a quarter to nickel size, depending on the area I am buffing. You may notice when you go to wash your pads after using OCP the oils still present in the pads. Since I use nothing but OCP and OCC I just rinse them off well, squeeze out extra moisture and with it wipe off the oils with a microfiber that come to the top then place them back in their baggies.



Anthony
 
We are discovering that OCP if over applied, meaning you are saturating your pad, can lose a bit of its cutting/polishing properties due to the presence of the lubrication oils. These oils act as a buffing barrier between your rotary and the paint as OCP and OCC were designed around rotary use. These are not fillers oils as some suggest. It is best to use slightly more the first time to prime the pad and from then on use alot less.



Some people use too much OCP, saturate their pad and then comment how it doesn't work well. This is not a bad thing as it testifies to the lubricating properties of the polish and unlike many conventional polishes which dry and dust meaning you need more product, OCP needs less product after your initial prime.



I use about a dollar coin size to prime, buff an area then after that all I need is about a quarter to nickel size, depending on the area I am buffing. You may notice when you go to wash your pads after using OCP the oils still present in the pads. Since I use nothing but OCP and OCC I just rinse them off well, squeeze out extra moisture and with it wipe off the oils with a microfiber that come to the top then place them back in their baggies.



Anthony
 
Thanks guys, I might add this to my wishlist. I think one shop over in the U.K. may stock it, if not ill get it shipped over.
 
Thanks guys, I might add this to my wishlist. I think one shop over in the U.K. may stock it, if not ill get it shipped over.
 
Used this on GF's Ford Ka last weekend (for those who are unfamiliar with the car it's a Euro supermini - you Amercian guys would probably keep it in your glovebox :grinno: )



Optimim via orange DAS Sonus @ speed 6 and it took no longer than SSR2.5 (I did half & half SSR/Optimum). Followed with SRP on a blue DAS and will post pics shortly.
 
Used this on GF's Ford Ka last weekend (for those who are unfamiliar with the car it's a Euro supermini - you Amercian guys would probably keep it in your glovebox :grinno: )



Optimim via orange DAS Sonus @ speed 6 and it took no longer than SSR2.5 (I did half & half SSR/Optimum). Followed with SRP on a blue DAS and will post pics shortly.
 
Anthony Orosco said:
We are discovering that OCP if over applied, meaning you are saturating your pad, can lose a bit of its cutting/polishing properties due to the presence of the lubrication oils. These oils act as a buffing barrier between your rotary and the paint as OCP and OCC were designed around rotary use. These are not fillers oils as some suggest. It is best to use slightly more the first time to prime the pad and from then on use alot less.



Some people use too much OCP, saturate their pad and then comment how it doesn't work well. This is not a bad thing as it testifies to the lubricating properties of the polish and unlike many conventional polishes which dry and dust meaning you need more product, OCP needs less product after your initial prime.



I use about a dollar coin size to prime, buff an area then after that all I need is about a quarter to nickel size, depending on the area I am buffing. You may notice when you go to wash your pads after using OCP the oils still present in the pads. Since I use nothing but OCP and OCC I just rinse them off well, squeeze out extra moisture and with it wipe off the oils with a microfiber that come to the top then place them back in their baggies.



Anthony
Click to expand...



Now that's great advice and feedback! Well said Anthony. IMO, OCP works best with a cyclo or rotary. In fact, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better product & price point.



I've tried it via PC a few times, but I have much better luck using IP and/or FPII with the PC.
 
Anthony Orosco said:
We are discovering that OCP if over applied, meaning you are saturating your pad, can lose a bit of its cutting/polishing properties due to the presence of the lubrication oils. These oils act as a buffing barrier between your rotary and the paint as OCP and OCC were designed around rotary use. These are not fillers oils as some suggest. It is best to use slightly more the first time to prime the pad and from then on use alot less.



Some people use too much OCP, saturate their pad and then comment how it doesn't work well. This is not a bad thing as it testifies to the lubricating properties of the polish and unlike many conventional polishes which dry and dust meaning you need more product, OCP needs less product after your initial prime.



I use about a dollar coin size to prime, buff an area then after that all I need is about a quarter to nickel size, depending on the area I am buffing. You may notice when you go to wash your pads after using OCP the oils still present in the pads. Since I use nothing but OCP and OCC I just rinse them off well, squeeze out extra moisture and with it wipe off the oils with a microfiber that come to the top then place them back in their baggies.



Anthony
Click to expand...



Now that's great advice and feedback! Well said Anthony. IMO, OCP works best with a cyclo or rotary. In fact, I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better product & price point.



I've tried it via PC a few times, but I have much better luck using IP and/or FPII with the PC.
 
I just gave OCP a try this weekend on a white '03 Mazda6 with light to moderate swirls. Used an LC white pad on my PC @ 5.5. It worked for a very long time with little to no dusting. However, after doing half the hood in the shade, the sun poked thru the clouds and revealed that I hardly made a dent in the swilrs, maybe 15-20% removed. I was a bit disappointed to say the least. I gave it another pass and still little impact on the swirls. Unfortunately, I didn't have my LC yellow pads with me so I couldn't test it out. I ended up using SSR2.5 with fresh LC white pads and got most of the swirls out.



I'm hoping I'll get better results using LC yellow pads next time. Maybe OCP is better suited for rotary use? Maybe me assuming OCP+LC white = SSR2.5+LC white was just off. I probably needed to use LC yellow+OCP to get similar results.
 
Scottwax said:
:nixweiss I've had no problems removing up to moderate defects using a Meguiars burgandy pad and Optimum with the PC. For more serious correction, I've found that DPs Super Swirl Eliminator or Optimum Compound work better.
Click to expand...



Would the Propel yellow pad provide the same cutting action as the Megs burgundy pad?
 
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