ONR on brand new paint job

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efnfast

New member
If you have a non-factory brand new paint job, can you use ONR to wash it, or do you want to wait 3mths or so before you wash it with ONR?



Seems silly, but I've seen that ONR adds some gloss to the paint and beading ability, so I don't know.
 
I don't think it is a silly question. My bottle of ONR doesn't say if it is new paint safe. I checked their web page also, I don't really know.
 
I had a car of mine painted at a local dealer. It was "baked"after it was painted, and according to the body shop forman the car was safe to wax immediately.
 
Shouldn't cause any problems.



Just to note, although your painter is knowledgeable about the paint system he sprays, I've never heard of a single paint manufacture that recommends using anything that can seal paint for at least 30 days.



Probably just hedging their bets as modern clear coats are usually catalyzed and baked-on and by the time a few days goes buy they're pretty much set-up and cured.



At the same time the manufacture knows their products best.



I think Paul aka the other pc looked into this one time and posted his results on MOL but I'm not 100% sure.



A car wash shouldn't be a problem though but if you want to play it safe, wait to seal the paint for at least 30 days, then have at it.



Also just to note, I've read for years people saying that after the paint is baked at the body shop it's completely dry, but I know that if you take that car home, park it in your garage and close all the doors and then walk back out into the garage after a few hours you'll smell solvents. So something is still flashing off.



For what it's worth...





:)
 
AFAIK, the definitive thread (here at Autopia) was by mirrorfinishman, who asked the major paint manufacturers how long to wait. A SEARCH on his username oughta bring it up. They all said to wait ~90-120 days under all circumstances, but who knows if that's just a CYA answer.



I know that IME, even baked paint continues to harden for quite a long time. I wait at least 90 days, but that's just me.



But as for the point of this thread, IIRC Dr. G. from Optimum has given this topic some real consideration and *IIRC* ONR and OCW are both supposed to be fresh-paint-safe. That OCW one surprised me, but, at I recall it, it's been OKed by Ford for post-production paintwork.



I still wash fresh repaints conventionally and then use Meguiar's #5 on them, but again, that's just me.
 
Accumulator said:
But as for the point of this thread, IIRC Dr. G. from Optimum has given this topic some real consideration and *IIRC* ONR and OCW are both supposed to be fresh-paint-safe.
Click to expand...



I asked Dr Ghodoussi this same question once and he replied that Optimum Car Wax is fine because is contains no solvents or abrasives whereas Poliseal or Optiseal should not be used until the paint is fully cured because they both contain solvents and Poliseal contains abrasives.
 
Mike Phillips said:
...



Also just to note, I've read for years people saying that after the paint is baked at the body shop it's completely dry, but I know that if you take that car home, park it in your garage and close all the doors and then walk back out into the garage after a few hours you'll smell solvents. So something is still flashing off.



For what it's worth...





:)
Click to expand...





I came across this also. I had some paint/body work done in the winter, january. The painter did say that he couldn't bake the new paint as usual because it was around -10/-20F here in MN.



He kept the truck in his heated shop for an extra week just for some margin. He also warned me that the paint could have ended up on the soft side (think Honda). He did tell me to give it 3 or so months before I wax it. I told him it is rarely warm enough here in march to wax anyhow.



My garage smelled like a paint booth for at least another week after I brought it home.



:werd:
 
scary bill said:
I





My garage smelled like a paint booth for at least another week after I brought it home.
Click to expand...



Thanks for adding that last sentence. I've seen heated debates over this topic on other forums as some people will say that after it leaves the body shop the paint is completely cured and dried and safe to wax but your nose tells another story.



Honestly I've never seen a paint job fail because it was waxed too soon. That said, 30 days goes by pretty quickly.



Meguiar's makes a product, (M80), that's body shop safe and safe to use on fresh paint that contains a protective paintable polymer in it. It doesn't offer a lot of protection, in the eyes of some, something's better than nothing.



I suggested to one of the chemists to take this protective polymer and turn it into a fresh paint safe wax or sealant and there wasn't that much interest in the idea. ValueGaurd offers a wax in their Body Shop Safe line of products and states the wax is silicone-free and safe for use in a body shop but that doesn't mean it's safe for applying to fresh paint.



The idea behind not applying a wax or paint sealant to fresh paint is to no seal the surface so any solvents or other substances can outgass.



Here's a link to the product,





Finishing Wax

28.jpg




I also sent them an e-mail asking about whether it was also safe to apply over fresh paint. If they get back to me I'll let you know what they say.





:)
 
I think Zaino claims their sealants are fresh paint safe? And, if I'm not mistaken Sal was in the Body Shop business for a while.



Has anyone ever seen any evidence of premature paint failure by sealing in fresh paint? I've talked to many people in the paint and body shop industry about this topic and the answers I get are all over the place.



I'd like to pick up a freshly painted, non-baked panel and LSP it every day for a month and see what happens both short and long term.
 
When I got the front end of my Honda repainted (shop used Spies-Hecker paints), he said no power washing for a week and not to wax for 90 days. He said that polishing any time would be fine.
 
David Fermani said:
Has anyone ever seen any evidence of premature paint failure by sealing in fresh paint? I've talked to many people in the paint and body shop industry about this topic and the answers I get are all over the place.
Click to expand...



Joe aka SuperiorShine painted a hood or fender some time ago and was going to seal it with a wax or paint sealant and see what happens. Maybe he'll chime in?



:)
 
I've applied NXT on a refinished panel (few days old). It sat for months

and dulled out... Baked on or not, best to wait before applying any LSP.



*Not all clears are the same nor applied the same.*



*It's not just the clear either. The other materials below it can matter.*
 
Back when I was 13 I waxed my fathers El Camino, which had been repainted less than 30 days prior. He had me use a polish on it a few time before that (Race Glaze I think) but just thought I'd be a nice guy (kid) and wax it for him one day. He was upset when I told him what I used...don't recall what he actually said, but I know it had something to do with the paint drying...



Now this could be related to the waxing, but I really don't know. About a week or so after I waxed it, there was a spot on the lower part of the door about the size of a silver dollar that went dull. It never polished out and it's hard to say it was related to the waxing as the rest of the car looked fine. But it still makes me wonder to this day... :confused:





Rasky
 
If there was bubbling, that would have nothing to with an LSP. It has everything

to do with poor prep; contamination/inadequate flash times.



Just how much an LSP seals fresh paint is uncertain. And it's rarely known

just how the panel(s) were painted and under what conditions. Temperature,

humidity, and possibly, the need to rush the job, plays role in what and how

the job was done. Plus the color/effect/brand can play a role; some colors

are inherently poor in coverage (metallic reds/yellows). Dark colors, blacks

in particular, takes much longer flash off; something to do with the high carbon

content not allowing the solvents to escape efficiently. I'm sure everyone has

seen dulled/muted black paint jobs...
 
I've always thought that the *primary* concern with waxing/etc. fresh repaints was that interfering with the outgassing could result in the paint not reaching its maximum potential hardness, rather than some catastrophic failure. At least that's always been my concern...
 
Accumulator said:
I've always thought that the *primary* concern with waxing/etc. fresh repaints was that interfering with the outgassing could result in the paint not reaching its maximum potential hardness, rather than some catastrophic failure. At least that's always been my concern...
Click to expand...



That is my understanding as well.
 
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