New to Autopia!

Congrats Sarge, you are making some progress :)



It has been my experience with the orange 6 1/2" pads and DACP(about the same as 3m's pi3 rc). that with the right amount of product, worked in long enough, and pressure decreasing the last couple passes, that i can almost goto my LSP, especially on lighter cars.



Using the RC with the 4" pads might be different though, but i would definatly reduce the pressure towards the end of the polishing of the area-especially when you think it will be your last needed go with the RC.
 
Accumulator said:
Of course the *real* trick is to keep from inducing *new* marring once you get it all polished up ;) You might wanna do a search on "foamgun" to see how some of us use one to help prevent wash-induced marring.
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I'm all over it! Here in FL, the marring factor is esp high. If I can significantly reduce marring, I'm in. Tomorrow I will either try the 3M glaze or the Menzerna.



Once I reach the point at which I'll be using the PS, should I wait awhile for the FPII to "setup" first?
 
JBM said:
but i would definatly reduce the pressure towards the end of the polishing of the area-especially when you think it will be your last needed go with the RC.
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I was thinking the same. I don't anticipate having any issues with removing the 3M PI III RC induced swirls/haze.



It's a little worrysome seeing your car with all this going on esp the first time but I'm going very slowly......With good forum backup. :D
 
Did you use the RC in the heat and humidity we had the last few days?



I was under the assumption that the PI 3 line was pretty easy to rub off, but it was sticky this week lol.
 
I just used it at around 7:30 this evening. I always seem to have to get the product off with water. And yes, it is very humid, esp in my garage!



Is this an acceptable approach?
 
Sarge- Heh heh, it it works, then I'd say it's acceptable ;)



But when I use the RC, it wipes off quite easily. The humidity could explain it though, sounds like our environments are very different.



You don't have to let the FPII "set up". It (and the PI-III MG, despite the "machine glaze" name) are just abrasive polishes, mild versions of the RC. You work them until they're finished abrading (the abrasives break down), then you wipe them off and see if you need to do it again. When all looks good, apply the Souveran.



Don't let the Souveran "set up" either, wipe it on then wipe it off.
 
The results are in!



Last steps in process included IP with white 4" pad followed with IP and white 6" pad to ensure larger patch/better uniformity. The 4" pad left some haze traces but the 6" pad made them go away. I then finished the polishing steps with the FPII and a white 6" pad.



Topped this off with the PS and pulled the Z out into the sunlight. Absolutely no swirls or scratches and a great looking finish but compared to the surrounding body panels, the trunk lid fails to give that glimmer as there appears to be some type of light haze keeping the -pop- in the paint from surfacing.



Surrounding objects seem to reflect just a bit better on the other panels. Is there something I missed between the FPII and the PS?



Should I go back and MG then FG followed then by the PS? I think I'm a step away from my expectations. I just need to find it.



I'm happy with the results but the clarity could be better.



Your thoughts............
 
I cant remember, is your vehicle black?



For my truck, if i use the white pad and my final polishing, i can see ever so slight micromarring. I have to put my nose right down onto the panel to see it though. Might be my technique, i dunno, ive only had black for a month lol.



Ive switched to using my finishing pad(LC black one) and SFX 3, and this makes it perfect.
 
Yes it's black. I'm going to go back and lightly use the 3M PI III RC again only this time with the white 6" pad using a figure 8 pattern instead of back and forth. I had good success using that pattern with the IP/FPII. I think that some of the residual hazing could be the original application of the RC with the side to side motion. I 'll then use the same approach with the IP using a different white 6" pad. Last time I applied the FPII, I used a white pad when I think I should have been using either the LC gray or red pad.



I'll finish with the PS.



If this does not net the expected results, I'll then try the 3M MG/FG combo.
 
Success!!! :bounce



I did as I had said in the last post and it worked. Again I pulled my car into the sunlight and it was just as I expected. After trial and error x6 or x7, I finally have it!



I believe another reason for the visual mismatch was 2 of the surrounding panels were repainted within the last 1.5 years and the area I was dealing with was the original '01 paint.



I masked off the hood and will begin work there later today but will again go with the IP before the RC.



The PC really is the tool to make all this go so well. Nothing beats real world experience when it's all said and done. I'm just glad I started here; good people on the forum for guidance and advice. :up



What do you recommend in regards to dealing with detailing around emblems? The Corvette emblem is a real pain in the rear to deal with as well as the one in the front. I was thinking of possible removal.
 
Ive never remed an emblem, so i dont know how to reattatch it.



Are you looking for a way to polish up as close to it as you can, or more concerned with getting the products out of the nooks?
 
welcome to a living nitemare!!!auto detailing is like speling...................you THINK you got it right when all of a sudden you're wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!to many possibilities, lots of stuff out there and you want the right one. hopefully, others' mistakes will be a warning to you. buy what you need and experiment. for instance, what i use on my WHITE buick is not gonna be the same on your white car. opinions in my opinion are not gonna be the same as others. experiment. listen to others. don't be too judgemental or impatient. i can go on and on and on...........but the final desicion rests in your eyes, your heart and last.....your pocket book. welcome to AUTOPIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Sarge said:
What do you recommend in regards to dealing with detailing around emblems? The Corvette emblem is a real pain in the rear to deal with as well as the one in the front. I was thinking of possible removal.
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If you can get the emblems off, I'd remove them and reinstall after polishing. I never did that on my C5 though so I dunno if it will be feasible.



I just work the tight spots with foam and cotton swabs and with MF. You can often "force" the plush MF into the tight spots and/or use a sharpened toothpick/swab stick to get MF or cotton in there. Try pulling the cotton off a Q-tip and using the sharpened stick to get into the really tight spots. Be careful that the stick doesn't mar the paint. This can be *very* time consuming and nerve wracking (so I generally debadge most of my vehicles :D ).
 
waxnbuff said:
welcome to a living nitemare!!!auto detailing is like speling...................you THINK you got it right when all of a sudden you're wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!to many possibilities, lots of stuff out there and you want the right one. hopefully, others' mistakes will be a warning to you. buy what you need and experiment. for instance, what i use on my WHITE buick is not gonna be the same on your white car. opinions in my opinion are not gonna be the same as others. experiment. listen to others. don't be too judgemental or impatient. i can go on and on and on...........but the final desicion rests in your eyes, your heart and last.....your pocket book. welcome to AUTOPIA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Great post, couldn't agree more. I actually did a full week of forum review before I became a member and actually got to work. The patience thing with me has really become an area I've improved in over the years. I'm new to the -sport- and I'm all ears and eyes!
 
Accumulator said:
If you can get the emblems off, I'd remove them and reinstall after polishing. I never did that on my C5 though so I dunno if it will be feasible.



I just work the tight spots with foam and cotton swabs and with MF. You can often "force" the plush MF into the tight spots and/or use a sharpened toothpick/swab stick to get MF or cotton in there. Try pulling the cotton off a Q-tip and using the sharpened stick to get into the really tight spots. Be careful that the stick doesn't mar the paint. This can be *very* time consuming and nerve wracking (so I generally debadge most of my vehicles :D ).
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I'll try to remove at least the rear emblem if not both. The nose is always under a bra :D and requires little in the way of attention. If I can't get the rear emblem off, I'll run with your suggestions.



BTW, I finished my hood and the procedure was as follows:

1. 3M PI III RC w/4" orange pad.

2. 3M PI III RC w/6" white pad. Buff w/MF bonnet

3. 3M MG w/6" white pad. Buff w/MF bonnet

4. 3M FG w/6" grey pad. Buff w/MF bonnet

5. PS when Z is finished.



The 3M products worked out about the same as the Menzerna. I actually masked off the hood in half and used the 3M products on one side and the Menzerna on the other. Again, no remarkable differences. The end result is your sig line! :xyxthumbs



Thanks for your and the members help. Looking forward to finishing the rest of the car! :up
 
JBM, OK, OK!! What was I thinking or not thinking? :D



My digital is a pretty good one and I suppose the best way to get the best result is to get a pic in direct sunlight.



I don't have any decent halogen lights so I'll have to make due with mother nature. Now I have to figure how to post a pic. Ah, the new guy syndrome!!!



The forecast for S FL the whole week is sunny :cool: so I'll get on it tomorrow.



Gonna check out 24 tonight?
 
Nah, i have a bunch of movies to watch before they go back, but i will Tvo it :)



You should upload your pics to the atopia pictures page under your name, then paste the properties.
 
Accumulator, JBM:

Sorry about the absence but the Army sent me TDY for personnel updates so I haven't been home to work on the Z as of late but finally finished up the other day upon returning.



I did get some pics today but I don't think they are detailed enough to see the work. I took them under lightly clouded skies. Every section of the car turned out very well except the hood and trunk. You can still see 4" orange pad trails. The trails are hazy as well. I suppose I will have to back over with RC with the 6" white pad, followed with the MG and final. I did not see these trails when the car was in the garage under florescent light and I really checked out the vehicle well before pics. I can't believe I could have missed such large areas. Could these trails surface after time?



Should I MG multiple times to eliminate the trails? I had only gone over each area once with the MG and thought maybe 2 or more times were necessary. If I can get these two areas straight, I'll be happy. :)







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