My Klasse review

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Buick_guy

New member
Ok, I just finished doing half of my hood with AIO and SG. Did this work, and well, not to impressed. AIO, I didn't notice any difference, maybe because I keep my paint clean all the time, so it would probably be different on a none autopian car.



Also, the SG didn't look any different after compared to cheapo meguiars cleaner wax on the other side of the hood.



Could someone give me some tips on how to get some better results?
 
Try another coat of SG as some people have said that 2 or 3 coats really brings out the shine. If not try a carnauba topper like P21s which is easy to apply.Remember alot of people put SG on for it's durability than top it with a wax to get a richer look.The SG will last a lot longer than the Megs.



If you have a light colour car like silver it may be hard to see a difference against any other product. Depends on the lighting conditions as well.



Did you clay before AIO, that may help.



Look at the bright side at least your car is well protected for a few months.
 
Prep work is quite important with Klasse. Wash, clay and polish are really needed to get the paint as close to perfect as possible. then do the AIO followed by SG as you did. Be prepared to be underwhelmed. But you're not done.



Wait at least 24 hours and apply a 2nd coat. A bit better, that's more like it. But still, you're not just blown away yet. Wait at least another 24 hrs and then put on the 3rd coat. That's all I'm going to say. If you're still not impressed, you probably need a repaint. Just kidding!
 
I see two downsides to the twins. The first one you have already found. That AIO+SGx1 is all that special but, AIO+SGx3 is! The problem with that is you have to wait 24 hrs or so to put on the next coat. So you either have to have your car parked for 3 days or you add a layer the next two times you wash your car.



That being said, the other downside to the twins is that it more of a pain to do spot work. For example, I have an embedded particle in my hood as we speak, so if I go after with clay, I have to start that layering process on that spot again. If I was using, lets say, 1Z products, I would simply, clay, PP/MP/GW all in one session.
 
Ok, I have a customer that wants me to use Klasse, and I said that it didn't live up to what I wanted it to look like. That said, I was wondering if I could put a coat of pure carnuba the same day as the sg. Like 2 hours later, or will this not do much.





Also, from what I have read, I thought that Klasse was supposed to be smooth and slick. Well it isn't. Anything to do there?
 
I find AIO is slicker than SG. I believe that you still have to wait the 24 hours before anything is put on top of SG whether it's another SG layer or carnauba.
 
Ok, this is a picture of the paint. Does it sound like I'm just expecting too much out of my factory ****** paint?





picture_3_small.jpg
 
Buick_guy,



I agree and disagree with your review on the twins. I, personally, love AIO but (like you) am not impressed with SG. The thing is, (again like you) I only used one coat of SG so far so I guess I haven't seen the full effect yet. My favorite combo so far is AIO/P21S. My black Expedition looked ridiculous after that combo.



I don't see the point in applying SG if you are going to put on carnauba on top of it anyway, or am I wrong? I was under the impression that you would do one or the other since one is a synthetic and one is not, aside from the fact that you would have to wait at least 24 hours between coats no matter what product you're using. Some guys on here say to wait as long as a week between coats.



Something else I have noticed, (or am I the only one?) is that I have to wait almost a full 24 hours after AIO to apply anything at all. It doesn't matter whether it's SG or P21S, if I don't wait it gums up on me and leaves a pretty bad residue.
 
Well, what I did was wash the hood, didn't clay cause it was still smooth. Then wiped on less than a dime sized dot of AIO over the half of the hood. I then let is dry for about 2 minutes. Then immediatly after I applied SG and just wiped on and then off. Am I doing this wrong too?
 
Well, first of all, I don't think there is a right or wrong way to do anything. I believe that most everyone here will agree when I say that all detailing will eventually come down to personal preference.



As far as I can tell, the consensus around here is to apply AIO either by hand or by PC small sections at a time and wipe off immediately, no drying time. I like to use my PC set on 4.5 with a white pad and use about the same amount of AIO as you, maybe more, and polish in back and forth motions until most of it's gone. After I go over a section two or three times and the AIO is still wet I immediately whipe it off with a microfiber detailing towel. I absolutely LOVE how the paint feels after this step. Nice, smooth, and clean.



Now, you said that you applied SG immediately after the AIO. How did this work for you? Did it come off easily or was it a workout? I personally had a hard time getting it off even after a six hour curing period, but the humidity is pretty high down here too so that makes a difference. Regardless, the SG is applied by hand small sections at a time and removed immediately while still wet. Some let it dry a little bit before removing, but a lot of guys have found that you get the same results either way so why wait when you can just take it right off.
 
Buick_guy said:
Well, what I did was wash the hood, didn't clay cause it was still smooth. Then wiped on less than a dime sized dot of AIO over the half of the hood. I then let is dry for about 2 minutes. Then immediatly after I applied SG and just wiped on and then off. Am I doing this wrong too?
Click to expand...



How old is your car? Have you ever clayed the car since you bought it?



When you say the paint is smooth did you simply check by running your hand over it.If so that is not a true test of whether it has contaminants. Put your hand in a sandwich bag and run your hand over the paint again.If this car has never been clayed(even if somewhat new) I can guarantee it will feel quite rough. My 1 year old car was waxed frequently since new and to the bare hand it was smooth as glass, once I did the bag test it was quite rough especially the hood. Brake dust from cars is a major source for damaging paint so there isn't 1 car on the road that doesn't need a good claying regularly.



Whatever car you're doing, no matter how new, claying is a must. It should help and you got nothing to lose and it isn't time consuming.
 
Buick_guy said:
Ok, this is a picture of the paint. Does it sound like I'm just expecting too much out of my factory ****** paint?





picture_3_small.jpg
Click to expand...



The paint needs more prep (to reduce cobwebbing effect) to get the best results from any product. The Klasse twins have a very nice look but SG is finicky, even with the wipe on/wipe off method. I much prefer Wolfgang for that reason alone...although I do like the look quite a bit too!
 
If working by hand there's nothing better than working with the 1Z line of polishes for ease of use.1Z PP followed by MP and topped with NXT then #16 over that will give super results IMO.
 
I wouldn't waste my time "removing" swirls by hand. Get at least a PC and start experimenting with a mild, SMR-grade polish. If that doesn't work, step up to a medium polish like DACP or 3M Finesse-It.



Or check out the Cyclo: Can a Cyclo orbital cut?



SG can be finicky, and it doesn't temporarily 'glaze' your finish the way an oily wax like WG would. With SG, what you see is the extent of your prep work. For detailers, I can see why it's an easier choice to use something greasier.
 
Buick_guy said:
God damn it! This sucks, now I'm out of money, and I can't even buy a machine to help me out.
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Sell your $50K+ FX45 and buy lots and lots of detailing supplies instead... ;)
 
Buick_Guy, Can you outline how you applied the Klasse? Its possible because its your first time you may be using it improperly. Let us know your methods and maybe a description on the paint defects you are trying to remove. I wouldn’t say you wasted your money at all, Klasse isn’t so popular because it doesn’t work, Its very possible your paint needs to be compounded before the Klasse. Let us know, we are here to help and most of all...don’t get frustrated!



Chris Pace
 
As far as I can tell, the consensus around here is to apply AIO either by hand or by PC small sections at a time and wipe off immediately, no drying time. I like to use my PC set on 4.5 with a white pad and use about the same amount of AIO as you, maybe more, and polish in back and forth motions until most of it's gone. After I go over a section two or three times and the AIO is still wet I immediately whipe it off with a microfiber detailing towel. I absolutely LOVE how the paint feels after this step. Nice, smooth, and clean.
Click to expand...



Personally I think there has to be some time to let the AIO haze before removal, but the SG is a wipe on wipe off affair ( depending on which application method you subscribe to ). Nail down three layers of SG and then top with paste wax of your choice and periodically reapply every 3 or 4 weeks. The SG should protect all your hard polishing work and the wax will be a sacrificial layer that dimishes with time. 6 months later, strip it back and start over. But prep prep prep is the key to that flawless shine you are hoping to achieve...( Menzerna for me as I like the twins twins combo but its a subjective thing )
 
Scottwax said:
The paint needs more prep (to reduce cobwebbing effect) to get the best results from any product.
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I agree with Scott. The paint needs more prep work badly. It's still got a lot of swirls. Glaze and wax will hide that, but that's the downside of sealants. You see everything.



Wait until you get the DACP and work that until you are satisfied and then reapply the Klasse. You can also try #9, but it's not as effective, and if you can't get DACP, you probably can't get #9. :(
 
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