Accumulator
Well-known member
SpoiledMan- Heh heh, I really do need to type up my clay vs. LSP test huh?
To repeat, I spot clay with Sonus green (used others before that) at *every* wash. The often-clayed areas need their LSP redone before the rest of the car, but it's not like five/six/eight gentle clayings make it necessary unless I get aggressive about the claying.
Using the Sonus green, and plenty of Glyde lube, it's pretty easy to glide (sorry about the pun
) the clay across the surface of the LSP...it just shears off stuff that's stuck to the surface of the LSP. Yeah, it does take a gentle touch (basically no pressure at all) and not everybody's gonna do it right, but I'm utterly confident that *you* can do this. And yeah, if that stuff has penetrated the LSP to a significant extent then it's a totally different situation and you'll need to rewax by the time you finish the claying.
I bet I sound like I'm all ranting about this topic, but when you consider that I've done the spot-claying innumerable times (however many washes I've done in ~17 years) this is something I'm confident about. I've clayed through LSPs and I've *not* clayed through 'em, and it's pretty easy to tell the difference.
Wonder if the way I'm always working on *my own* vehicles makes a big difference...if I were doing somebody else's car I'd probably have to clay so aggressively that I'd need to rewax :think: The last time I clayed somebody else's car I wasn't very gentle about it
BTW, I really do sympathize with you people working on (let alone the people living with) that stupid-soft BMW paint. That's a good term for it, I'd sell the vehicle, regardless of loss, over [nonsense] like that. The ss lacquer on the Jag is pretty soft (especially the satin-black window frames) but clays (even ones more aggressive than the Sonus green) don't mar it and I'd be bummed if they did.
IIRC that's the same paint that you've marred by all sorts of contact right? Including the sort of contact that would never penetrate the LSP under normal circumstances. Getting back to the clay thing, think of how you can (presumably, I'm sure not talking from experience here...) wax the soft paint and then mar it with a towel or something similar; it's still waxed though, right? I dunno whether it presses the wax down into the paint, or cuts through the wax in some places but not in others...[heck] I don't know *what* happens in those cases, but I bet you'd say "well, I marred it again, but it's still waxed". Same idea with the Sonus green clay.
To repeat, I spot clay with Sonus green (used others before that) at *every* wash. The often-clayed areas need their LSP redone before the rest of the car, but it's not like five/six/eight gentle clayings make it necessary unless I get aggressive about the claying.
Using the Sonus green, and plenty of Glyde lube, it's pretty easy to glide (sorry about the pun

I bet I sound like I'm all ranting about this topic, but when you consider that I've done the spot-claying innumerable times (however many washes I've done in ~17 years) this is something I'm confident about. I've clayed through LSPs and I've *not* clayed through 'em, and it's pretty easy to tell the difference.
Wonder if the way I'm always working on *my own* vehicles makes a big difference...if I were doing somebody else's car I'd probably have to clay so aggressively that I'd need to rewax :think: The last time I clayed somebody else's car I wasn't very gentle about it

BTW, I really do sympathize with you people working on (let alone the people living with) that stupid-soft BMW paint. That's a good term for it, I'd sell the vehicle, regardless of loss, over [nonsense] like that. The ss lacquer on the Jag is pretty soft (especially the satin-black window frames) but clays (even ones more aggressive than the Sonus green) don't mar it and I'd be bummed if they did.
IIRC that's the same paint that you've marred by all sorts of contact right? Including the sort of contact that would never penetrate the LSP under normal circumstances. Getting back to the clay thing, think of how you can (presumably, I'm sure not talking from experience here...) wax the soft paint and then mar it with a towel or something similar; it's still waxed though, right? I dunno whether it presses the wax down into the paint, or cuts through the wax in some places but not in others...[heck] I don't know *what* happens in those cases, but I bet you'd say "well, I marred it again, but it's still waxed". Same idea with the Sonus green clay.