There are some valid points made.
The instructions given by Proper Auto for the "KBM" are mixed in with other recommendations (some are expressed as such). Unless a person is aware of this, there could be mass confusion. :cursing:
At this point, the BEST thing to do is to CALL and chat with one of the guys at PAC (or me) if you have ANY questions.
That being said, I thought I would post up a bit of KBM info I've scavenged from various forums. Some you may have already seen, but since this thread references the KBM to the point of changing the thread's original intent, I thought it wouldn't hurt.
Here we go:
This is a
very cool write-up by
akimel on TID as well as MOL, pertaining to a debate as to the "tool abuse" required to do the "KBM":
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1462
The following information was posted on MOL's site (same write-up by akimel). In answer to this question:
How much pressure are we referring to with the KB method...15 to 20lbs.? I've been using about that much pressure on my PC for 10 years now, and it's still running OK from what I can tell.
An interesting question, and one that is not simple to answer.
Before we discuss specifics, it is important to understand that an increase in downward applied pressure is often
required when buffing pads are being used versus a sanding disc.
A typical sanding disc utilizes a flat, hard, and pliable material as a backing, and the abrasive grains are glued or laminated to it. These are typically referred to as
film backed discs. An abundance of pressure is not needed (nor desired) when sanding wood or paint because the abrasive grains are already positioned tightly against each other, and the grains are resting on the same plane. It is therefore relatively easy to level the material being work on. Adding excess pressure knocks the abrasive grains loose, shortening the life of the paper. The loosened grains are often trapped between the disc and sanded surface, forcing the grains into the softest material (usually the wood or paint- ouch!).
Another type of sanding disc uses a thin foam interface between the attachment material and the abrasive side of the disc. These are typically referred to as
foam backed discs. Often, the abrasive grains are attached to a very flexible or soft material. The soft interface and very pliable material allow the face of the disc to easily contour to the surface being sanded. Generally, no added pressure is needed for sanding with this type of disc for the same reasons previously listed. Should the user desire a bit more leveling capability, downward pressure could be increased to compress the foam. Once the foam has fully compressed, the abrasive grains will be forced into the paint. Usually, if extra leveling of the surface is desired, it is best to find a suitable film backed disc.
If added contouring capability is needed, a
foam interface pad can be inserted between the sanding disc and backing plate. The film backed disc will still cut the sanded material more
level than a foam backed disc because the grains are attached to a material that will not allow the grains to "push" into the material they are attached to.
Regardless the type of disc being used, one way to increase leveling capability is to use a larger stroke machine, or dramatically increase the oscillation speed. There is too much specific information about this topic, so you will have to take my word on this for the time being (this topic is discussed at length in my "paper").
Now, let us delve into the dynamics of the
buffing pad.
The first thing to consider is that when we use a buffing pad, we are dealing with a LOT thicker foam material than the foam backed discs typically use, even with an interface pad placed between the backing plate and disc. The next thing to consider is that the abrasive grains are NOT permanently attached to the foam. Certainly, some of the grains attach, some roll about between the foam and the sanded surface, and other grains attach to the foam and then release. Finally, it must be understood that the abrasive grains are not evenly distributed. Some areas of the pad may have NO abrasive material attached to it, while other areas may have grains stacked upon other grains. The unevenly distributed material can sometimes cause microfine marring (or hazing) of the paint surface.
To minimize the possibility of hazing, the pad should be properly primed with the buffing liquid, and firm and even pressure should be applied to the machine. FIRM does not mean FORCED! Firm simply means that the pad needs to have an even distribution of pressure applied to it. This accomplishes several things. First, the abrasive grains will cut consistently and evenly when they are contacting the paint surface level to each other. Picture this: If we were hand sanding, we would try our best to keep our hand backing pad level to the paint surface so that the paper could evenly abrade the paint surface, right? Firm pressure across the pad achieves this. Secondly, we want the abrasive grains to attach themselves to the foam. Certainly, we do not desire all of the grains to be attached because the loose and rolling grains serve a purpose, too. Primarily, their movements mimic rolling little spheres (think of ball bearings). This movement helps the pad to glide along, and as the grains roll about, they contact the grains that are attached to the pad, knocking them loose, and allowing them to possibly reattach to a different area of the pad, and in a different position.
The original question was "How much pressure?!"
Again, not so easy to generalize! If a
short stroke machine is being used in conjunction with a tall or very soft buffing pad, then the buffing pad will likely cushion or negate a majority of the machine's oscillating movement. In this scenario, a LOT of pressure would be needed
simply to deliver the machine's movements (this has NOTHING to do with any particular polishing procedure).
These could be considered popular short stroke machines:
3/32" diameter orbit- Metabo SXE400 or several air powered units,
3/16" diameter orbit- DeWalt DW443, Festool Rotex RO150 FEQ, or the Griot's Garage RO (original machine),
7/32" diameter orbit- Makita BO6040
If a
long stroke machine is being used in tandem with a short or stiff pad, there may be no need to ADD extra pressure to the machine. The Dynabrade 61379/61384 Dual Action Buffing Head features a 3/4" diameter stroke, which is huge.
Most random orbital guys are using machines featuring a 5/16" diameter orbit. So, imagine the possible combinations!
Machines utilizing a 5/16" orbit are:
Meguiar's G100, G110, G220,
Porter Cable 7424, 7335, 7336, 7424XP
Griot's Garage (new machine)
By now, I hope it is clear why blurting a generalized "amount of pressure" is not so wise.
We have not even discussed the effects of pad diameter, but most guys know that a small diameter pad will deliver more pressure per square inch than a large diameter pad of a similar type.
I will say that if a
large amount of pressure is going to be applied, it should be done in very short bursts only.
If enough pressure is being applied to stall the rotation of the machine, try using a different pad, a higher speed setting, a larger-stroke random orbital machine, a forced rotation machine, or a rotary machine (in that order).
Hey guys- I've seen lots of the pros here say they use the KEVIN BROWN METHOD.
Just wanted to know... what exactly is it???? And how does it work??
First off, the
KBM is not for everyone because most guys are more than satisfied with how a random orbital performs as used in its traditional manner. I am good with that! :money: Further, each buffing liquid features the
manufacturers recommendations pertaining to the use of that particular product, and polishing enthusiasts should use traditional polishing methods and follow the guidelines set forth by the liquid manufacturer
prior to using this procedure. I have always stated that this procedure is
not for newbies, and that this method is not a replacement for a rotary. Rather, it is simply an alternative method that
I use which can deliver a very high degree of success (in terms of defect removal and finishing capability). The products I've used this procedure with the most are Meguiar's M86 and M105, so that should be kept in mind.
"Why is there no short answer or directional guide?
Quite simply because the short answer states directions only, but no theory as to why it works.
Now, is that really teaching anything?
For quite some time I just e-mailed guys that wanted to know how I was applying M86 and M105 with a random orbital because neither was officially recommended for use with the random orbital. First it was a one-page e-mail, the two, then three. As I kept chasing my tail trying to supplement the procedure, I decided to write about some of the theory behind why I thought it worked so well. Well, it ended up at twenty pages with only four diagrams to take up space. A very boring read unless a guy was truly interested in the theory behind the method!
Once it was finished (a little over a year ago), I had a few guys read it and it became painfully obvious that more diagrams would improve the paper, so I began creating them. I am still not done, and believe me- I wish I was. Time constraints have slowed the completion of the document, but the time is near. Why did I start discussing the "KBM" online? Because Todd Helme aka TH0001 mentioned he used
"Kevin Brown's methods of madness" to polish a 1948 Lincoln Zephyr, and the inquiries began.
I am most excited about this: No longer is the random orbital looked upon as an "electric wax applicator", or as a "hazemaker". For some time it was perceived by the big guns as the sissies machine. Some rotary guys still don't like it, and that is fine. I am not writing this paper for them!
KBM points to consider when using a random orbital:
Maximize the polishing capabilities of the pad by thoroughly priming it with the buffing liquid.
Minimize the cushioning effects of the pad by applying downward pressure to the machine.
Adjust downward pressure to maintain some random rotation of the backing plate. More rotation is better for defect removal. Less rotation is better for final polishing.
Clean the pad throughout the process. Compressed air is BY FAR the best tool for the job.
Maintain pressure throughout the polishing cycle. This goes for defect removal as well as final polishing.
Prepare the pad for final polishing by priming it and then letting it sit for a couple minutes. Prior to use, remove the excess product from the pad by placing the pad face onto a microfiber towel. Run the machine for a few seconds until the excess material is removed. Then, apply small amounts of buffing liquid as needed. The goal is to have enough polish available to abrade paint away, but not so much that there are clumps of buffing liquid on the pad face or in the pore structure of the pad.
Introducing a spritz of water or detail spray is a no-no primarily because although cutting power may increase, so too will scouring. Besides,
soaking wet pads are not helpful. If you decide to implement the use of a
secondary wetting agent, be aware that scouring or abrasive clumping could occur (at least until you figure out how to avoid it on that paint at that time).
If scouring is noticeable when the buffing liquid is applied by machine b
ut not by hand, then the pad is the culprit- not the machine. Use a different pad (size or material), or adjust pressure, speed, and amount of product until satisfactory results are achieved.
A recent TID thread about random orbital polishing with some good conversation:
http://truthindetailing.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2669
ancing Dot:
artaaay: