Looking for advice on paint correction.

If you only have 4 pads, that is a big problem... You can never do all the steps with just 4 pads... Again, the pads load up with product, and even after wiping them down after you finish the set of passes, they will still eventually get all clogged up with gunk from the process and will not work right..

You need to have a Lot of each pad, and use them as needed, to keep a clean as possible one on the work... I might go through 12+ pads on a vehicle, depending on what is wanted, and how bad the paintwork is, to start...

You need to have a dedicated foam pad cleaner... I have had great success with this for over 15 years --- Snappy Clean Pad Cleaning Powder 3 Pack

If you are using Microfiber for wipe off, you need a good cleaner for them too... I have had great success with Chemical Guys Microfiber Cleaner in the gallon jug..
If you wash and dry the microfiber with Anything else that, is not microfiber, you will get a lot of unwanted junk trapped in the microfiber, so think about that part too..

You are using too big a pad for automotive/truck work.. I only use 5" pads for about everything and smaller down to 1 inch for tiny places, etc...The 5 " pad is much easier to control, get into more places, and is for me, easier to monitor the heat vs, moisture part of this process..

I only used 6 inch pads when I was paint correcting airplanes, which have a way different type of paint on them on them and airplane paint can take higher speeds and not hurt it... But, the higher speeds add a lot more heat and throw more stuff farther away, that has to be cleaned up later... And,you end up killing dozens of pads on airplane paint..

You should see about them getting you a real paint cleaner spray to use for cleaning the panel of unwanted oils, fillers, etc., that come with most paint correction products... This product might be a good one to use to clean the paint after correcting it to make sure, it`s all good or not... RUPES REVEAL LITE Residue Remover

I am so sorry that your instructor was such an idiot by not teaching you how to paint correct because he hated it...Guess he really does not like doing this craft, because no matter what, body work, painting and paint correction will Always be tied together...

Good luck !
Dan F
 
Our shop would not allow us to go through that many pads on one vehicle I’d be fired if I ordered that many pads. We clean them very good they are not fully loaded with gunk we constantly clean them after every other pass. And the 9 inch pads are what our shop buys and allows us to use they don’t make very many changes considering the budget they keep it the same I have no control over that. Besides a mini polisher that’s a 3 inch but it’s air powered and hard to control speed on it more risk to burn through the clear with that one in my opinion. my instructor was not an idiot. He was like a grandfather to me took me in as one of his own he saved my life from a dark past but thanks for calling him an idiot. He did a lot of good with my paint training just not so much on buffing. So please refrain from calling him an idiot you only base your opinion on what he didn’t teach me which he’s not an idiot for that everyone is different as far as what values and knowledge they want to instill in some one
 
Buffingtech1 if your shop won`t buy different solutions i don`t think you will get any answers here.

I`m a hobbyist and only played around with a rotary a few times.

That said a 9 inch pad sounds very outdated/silly if it ever was a thing at all.

For the record Stokdgs is one of the most helpful guys around here.
 
BuffingTech1 --- I apologize for calling that man an idiot... I will refrain from opining out loud... :(

The bigger the pad, the MORE Area You have to keep track of, and then, there is the Cleaning of that big a pad after each set of passes...

I don`t even know the brand of the pad/s so I won`t say anything else about it..

Looks like from your replies, you are locked in to this level of process, so there is that..

If you will think about experimenting with at least, enough - moisture - on the panel, to mix with the the pad and product, and see if you can get it to finish down better, that will be good...

It would be so great if you could get with a person who is really experienced with Paint Correction with a Rotary, and has great results, to work with you and watch you do your process... Then, he could point out what needs to be done or not done, etc., and help you get better, sooner...

If you live anywhere near Northern California, I will be glad to bring down my Makita and some pads and product, and help you, let me know..

Good luck with this !
Dan F
 
Buffingtech1 said:
I have a vehicle I tried buffing on it when I first started out and ended up burning it pretty bad. And was full of swirls and buffer trails after i got done. I am reminded of it every day at work but yet. I was trained as a painter never had to buff on anything.
Click to expand...
Well then it doesn`t sound like a paint issue.

You absolutely have to experiment. When I read your posts it sounds like you want us to identify one small detail and it will magically fix your problem. You also sound very close to the end of your rope.

I know this is trite and overused BUT the definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result.

You have to change things and note the results. Keep a notebook of what you tried and how things changed (or didn`t).

Personally if it were me, I`d go to Harbor Freight, get their forced rotation buffer, some pads from Amazon (I like meguiars) and a proven two step compound/polish. Then I`d get the mess on my personal car fixed.

At point you can say, cool, I`ve killed swirls. Then regroup and on to your next battle. Maybe get a junk hood and paint it and attack it using your buffer/pads/polish.

Then if that works replace your personal compound with the Weezards compound but use your machine/pads.

Keeping working your stuff out until you get to the culprit. And for goodness sakes, don`t do a whole car, just do small test areas.
 
Again, we do not really know what Your Process is for paint correction... You have said that you have burned through paint before, and that alone needs to be addressed..

You have to absolutely, absolutely, keep the pad/machine - Moving - the entire time it is running on the panel.. There are no exceptions to this..

You have to absolutely, absolutely, know how much - Heat - you are creating on those passes.. Too much heat = you might burn through the paint there..

You have to absolutely, absolutely, know how much Pressure you are putting down on the machine/pad/product/paint, during that set of passes, and keeping the product ON the paint - thin - enough so that you can See your progress as it is working...

Are you seeing Less cloudy,faded,scratches,etc., as you work through that pass?? If you are NOT seeing any difference, you need to perhaps put more downward pressure on that/those spot/s, and evaluate your work after you finish, and do a wipe down...

I read up on "Wizards" product, and they have some good reviews, but I am not at all familiar with that brand...

There are lots of people making up new products every year, and I don`t wish to participate in being their Tester for them either... I have just a few brands I have used successfully on about every kind of car paint and airplane paint, and they always produce excellent results with not a lot finagling to get those results..

I know, you have said that you cannot control the purchase of any of the products you use.. If I were to recommend you use anything, well there are a couple of things, I wish you could try.... I would recommend you change out those 9 inch no idea what brand pads you use and get some of these from Lake Country, for the initial cut of that hopefully, fully dried new paint - Foamed Wool 7 x 1 inch Buffing and Polishing Pad
Yes, they are only 7 inches, to be used with a 6 inch backing plate...
And yes, I don`t like that big a pad for many reasons I have already stated..

But these purple foam wool pads work fast and great on a rotary, with downward pressure, moisture, etc., and finish out really nice, so the next Polish step is easier, and faster...

One last thing we have not discussed - how is your Lighting on the work??? What kind of lights are you using? Are they bright enough to allow you to see what is going on - clearly - as you go through that set of passes??? And can you Move them around with you as you go around the vehicle ??

Dan F
 
Sorry to hear about your job/employment choice.
You know more about it and what it entails.
That is one aspect of detailing that many who start doing it forget: doing here-and-there as a hobby or for "fun" is much different than doing it every day for 8 hours a day as a job/career.
I will make this comment: you tried to learn to use a rotary and that is no "easy" task/skill to master.
Cannot blame you or your past employer.
Nor do I know how much of your rotary use was self-taught or how much was good instruction from an experienced buffer tech; doesn`t sound like you got that support you needed to really succeed to their expectation level of an "acceptable/competent" buffer technician.
Just let us know what you will do with what you learned. Experience, even if it is bad, is never lost, and you know your own limits and abilities. The "live-and- learn" concept still applies. Hey, if it was easy, everyone would do it, but as you found out , it is not.
Just do not give up on finding something you can do and like/love doing. You having something to give to this world and I appreciate your telling us Autopians your buffing problems relating to your past employment.
I would wish you good luck, but as Indy 500 driver Johnny Rutherford said after hitting the wall about luck,
"Luck is where preparation meets opportunity; we just were not prepared today."
Opportunities will present themselves ; and the real question is "am I prepared to take advantage of it and make the most of it not only for myself, but for others as well."
 
Well it wasn’t because they weren’t happy with my work it was different circumstances and I had to step away from it I was at a dead end job with no where to move up but stay at the same level due to poor management and being promised the world just to get me in the door then to cut my throat when I tried to move up at what I was good at.
 
Buffingtech1 said:
Well it wasn’t because they weren’t happy with my work it was different circumstances and I had to step away from it I was at a dead end job with no where to move up but stay at the same level due to poor management and being promised the world just to get me in the door then to cut my throat when I tried to move up at what I was good at.
Click to expand...

Good luck, Buffingtech1 !!!

Dan F
 
The PPG Deltron 5030 clear coat is definitely on the softer side, which means it's more prone to marring and swirls. One thing that might help is to switch to a microfiber finishing pad for the last step instead of foam. Microfiber pads cut better and can finish down quite well on softer clears. Also, keep an eye on your washing technique. Sometimes swirls reappear because contaminants are still being introduced during the wash and dry, even if you've corrected the paint perfectly. A thorough two-bucket wash method with grit guards and high-quality drying towels can go a long way in preserving your work.
 
It sounds like some of the 2000 grit might not being refined down enough.

I've found that when correcting sanding marks with (in my case) a Porter Cable random orbital, I need to make sure the more aggressive sanding marks are refined before proceeding.

If it's the hologram / swirl effect from the rotary finishing, maybe seeing if they can get you an orbital for finishing would be a possibility.

I like to keep a practice panel around to play with. But... If you hate it... Probably the LAST thing you want to do on your free time. I can relate as I HATE using "professional" grade ceramic coatings.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top