light defects/scratches

H

Howard4Lakers

New member
Noob question



I'm a little overwhelmed with what products I should be using to remove light scratches on paint. These ''scratches'', on the rear bumper, look like light gray marks on the paint, size of an index finger. I drive a dark blue colored car. My initial plan was to clay -> polish -> wax. But my question is do i just do it on the area that has the defects or the entire car after a wash?



Or do I find a paint scratch remover thats made by many different reputable brands and use that on the area instead?



I searched the forum and came across this http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopia-detailing-wiki/141996-removal-light-surface-scratches.html which is the polish technique
 
If you just have scratches on the bumper then of course you can just polish them out and wax the car, but if you inspect the entire car, I would imagine that you will find more scratches/swirls throughout, so I would suggest inspecting all the paint, and then going from there. If they are true scratches, a polish may or may not remove them, depends how deep and what kind of paint. What car do you have?
 
"Light scratches" usually mean compound. Light swirls can be removed with a polish. There is no magic formula though, its a good idea to grab several levels of polishes and pads. Are you doing this by hand?
 
RZJZA80 said:
If you just have scratches on the bumper then of course you can just polish them out and wax the car, but if you inspect the entire car, I would imagine that you will find more scratches/swirls throughout, so I would suggest inspecting all the paint, and then going from there. If they are true scratches, a polish may or may not remove them, depends how deep and what kind of paint. What car do you have?
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I drive a 2011 hyundai sonata, pacific blue pearl color



Dan said:
"Light scratches" usually mean compound. Light swirls can be removed with a polish. There is no magic formula though, its a good idea to grab several levels of polishes and pads. Are you doing this by hand?
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So by compounds you mean polish or something more abrasive? I will be doing this by hand. I understand microfiber applicator pads are used right? There not swirls, there just scuffs. Yes there are more I come across around the car. Again, there not deep scratches, so I'd like to use one method where I can go around the entire car and do whatever is best to lessen the appearance of the scuffs.



So a clay -> polish -> wax works best? Once I'm done doing that and it doesn't get rid of all the scratches then maybe I could go for a different approach
 
I think you'll lose a lot of people with the whole by hand approach. I'd grab Ultimate Compound and Polish from your favorite parts store. They will work by hand, but its going to be blood, sweat and tears.
 
Dan said:
I think you'll lose a lot of people with the whole by hand approach. I'd grab Ultimate Compound and Polish from your favorite parts store. They will work by hand, but its going to be blood, sweat and tears.
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Meguiar's products? Found them, thx.



They got good reviews so thats a good start. Yeah I plan on doing it by hand, infact I plan on waxing using a liquid wax ?(collinite 845) by hand too lol. Is that out of the ordinary? Is using a polisher/buffer machine more beneficial?
 
Howard4Lakers said:
Meguiar's products? Found them, thx.



They got good reviews so thats a good start. Yeah I plan on doing it by hand, infact I plan on waxing using a liquid wax ?(collinite 845) by hand too lol. Is that out of the ordinary? Is using a polisher/buffer machine more beneficial?
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Yeah, doing the polishing by machine is leaps-and-bounds beyond doing it by hand, both in efficiency and efficacy.



Using the 845 (and by-hand is fine) after the Meguiar's compound and polish is a good approach.



The "compound" can be considered a more aggressive "polish". After you use that to fix/improve the scratches, you use the polish to refine things (like using progressively milder types of sandpaper).



Oh, and Welcome to Autopia!
 
Using a polisher isn't the only way to go, but it's the best way to go. The results and the finish will be better when using a polisher than by hand, but by hand will work if a polisher isn't an option, it'll just take a long time. 845 by hand is fine, just about any LSP is fine by hand for that matter. Stick with the UC and UP with a MF applicator and see how that works for you.
 
Polishing a car by hand is totally possible, but its like walking to the next town, on a hot day. Doable if you want to prove someone wrong, but miserable. You can get a great DA polisher for under $100. Polishing a car by hand is going to take you DAYS, not hours. How much do you value your time?
 
Dan said:
Polishing a car by hand is totally possible, but its like walking to the next town, on a hot day. Doable if you want to prove someone wrong, but miserable. You can get a great DA polisher for under $100. Polishing a car by hand is going to take you DAYS, not hours. How much do you value your time?
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Wasn't expecting to shell out money for a polisher, but if i can find a decent one for $30-40 then i'll do it.



The scratches are actually right below the rear license plate, on a small platform, where a buffer/polisher will not completely fit, so I guess I will have to do it by hand there? I'll snap a picture to clear things up.



how does this plan look?



-Wash the car

-Should I clay bar?

-Meguiars Ultimate compound

-Meguiars Ultimate Polish

-Collinite 845 liquid wax





what do i need to apply the compound and polish? just MF applicator pads? Or do I need a microfiber cloth to remove it after applying?



Please let me know so I can purchase these things in advance. Thanks!
 
Accumulator said:
Yes.







You can use either MF pads or foam "wax applicator" pads.







Yes, you'll need MF cloths to buff it off too. And to buff off the wax.
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okay great.



I am not familiar with Hyundai paint and if its 'soft' or not, but I've heard using a compound isn't necessary sometimes? I've had this car for 2 months, its a 2011 hyundai sonata, so I'm not sure how long its been on the lot, it had 27k miles on it and I gave it it's first hand wash 2 weeks ago.



Basically what I'm asking is:



How often should I clay bar it per year? Twice? Don't wanna ruin the paint.

How often do I use the ultimate compound (if used at all)? Once a year?



it's a daily driver and will be garaged.
 
Howard4Lakers said:
I am not familiar with Hyundai paint and if its 'soft' or not, but I've heard using a compound isn't necessary sometimes? I've had this car for 2 months, its a 2011 hyundai sonata, so I'm not sure how long its been on the lot, it had 27k miles on it and I gave it it's first hand wash 2 weeks ago...
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If you're working by hand, even "soft" clear will seem pretty tough ;)



Think of compounds and polishes as differing grits of sandpaper; you use the coarse/aggressive stuff if necessary, but otherwise you'd stick with the fine/gentle choice. Some times it's just a question of using a compound twice, followed by a polish once or using a polish alone maybe six or eight times. Other times you simply need the compound to make any headway at all. Best to have both, try the polish, switch to the compound if necessary.



How often should I clay bar it per year? Twice? Don't wanna ruin the paint.
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Done correctly (i.e, gently with lots of lube), claying won't do anything to the paint at all. Ideally, (heh heh...yeah, right...in a perfect world maybe ;) ) the clay will glide along on top of a film of lube, not even touching the paint; it bumps into contamination and shears said contamination off; it doesn't "pull it out", it shears it off and the distinction is, IMO, significant.



How often do I use the ultimate compound (if used at all)? Once a year?
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As seldom as you have to for the paint to look OK to you. Other than the occasional "oops!" where the paint gets scratched, it'll all probably depend on how the washes go (hint hint...that's the tricky part).



it's a daily driver and will be garaged.
Click to expand...



Don't touch the paint, at least not when it's dirty. Get the wash regimen sorted out so you don't instill marring while doing that. Rewax it before you think it needs done. Try to ignore the marring so a) you don't drive yourself nuts, b) you don't spend all your time on this stuff, and c) you don't thin the clearcoat by compounding/polishing it all the time.
 
Accumulator said:
If you're working by hand, even "soft" clear will seem pretty tough ;)



Think of compounds and polishes as differing grits of sandpaper; you use the coarse/aggressive stuff if necessary, but otherwise you'd stick with the fine/gentle choice. Some times it's just a question of using a compound twice, followed by a polish once or using a polish alone maybe six or eight times. Other times you simply need the compound to make any headway at all. Best to have both, try the polish, switch to the compound if necessary.
Click to expand...



so the compound would be a little more aggressive than the polish which is more gentle? So it would be OK to just head straight for the polish, since in this case the compound would not really be necessary?





Done correctly (i.e, gently with lots of lube), claying won't do anything to the paint at all. Ideally, (heh heh...yeah, right...in a perfect world maybe ;) ) the clay will glide along on top of a film of lube, not even touching the paint; it bumps into contamination and shears said contamination off; it doesn't "pull it out", it shears it off and the distinction is, IMO, significant.
Click to expand...



Sounds good. Any clay bar will do? I heard the same company has the patent for them anyway.



As seldom as you have to for the paint to look OK to you. Other than the occasional "oops!" where the paint gets scratched, it'll all probably depend on how the washes go (hint hint...that's the tricky part).







Don't touch the paint, at least not when it's dirty. Get the wash regimen sorted out so you don't instill marring while doing that. Rewax it before you think it needs done. Try to ignore the marring so a) you don't drive yourself nuts, b) you don't spend all your time on this stuff, and c) you don't thin the clearcoat by compounding/polishing it all the time.
Click to expand...



I wash using a meguiars microfiber wash mitt, meguiars gold class, and dry with the meguiars supreme microfiber cloths. I use two buckets, one for rinsing the mitt and the other for clean water. Car looks great but I see slight swirls in direct sunlight, I guess thats not supposed to happen and hoping the polish and wax will diminish that.



I want to add something else rather than making a whole new thread. I live in a condo with a detached garage and for now I don't have access to water to wash here, so I wash at another location where I can use a hose at my convenience. However it's a 10-15minute drive back home to my garage, and thats where I'd like to begin polishing and waxing. I know in that time period the car will accumulate light dust and was wondering if a quick detailer (meguiars) will help clean that off so I can proceed to polish on clean paint?
 
Howard4Lakers said:
so the compound would be a little more aggressive than the polish which is more gentle? So it would be OK to just head straight for the polish, since in this case the compound would not really be necessary?
Click to expand...



Yes, you're understanding it correctly.



BUT....get the compound too because I'm pretty sure you'll need it, at least in places.







... Any clay bar will do? I heard the same company has the patent for them anyway...
Click to expand...



There can be surprising differences when you're using them, and some of those surprises can be unpleasant (voice of experience). For OTC clay I'd get Griot's (check Advance Auto), or Mothers, or (maybe the best choice) Clay Magic Blue. I do best with a dedicated clay lube, but others are happy with shampoo mix.





I wash using a meguiars microfiber wash mitt, meguiars gold class, and dry with the meguiars supreme microfiber cloths. I use two buckets, one for rinsing the mitt and the other for clean water. Car looks great but I see slight swirls in direct sunlight, I guess thats not supposed to happen and hoping the polish and wax will diminish that...
Click to expand...



I could (some will say I *should*) write a book on how to wash! No, the process shouldn't mar the paint, but that's "ideally, in theory" and in practice most people do mar it up. The polish should diminish this marring and the wax will a) hide it a little (very little) and more importantly b) keep contaminants from adhering so firmly which will allow gentle wash techniques to clean 'em off.



Here's the big Q- How much do you care?



I want to add something else rather than making a whole new thread. I live in a condo with a detached garage and for now I don't have access to water to wash here, so I wash at another location where I can use a hose at my convenience. However it's a 10-15minute drive back home to my garage, and thats where I'd like to begin polishing and waxing. I know in that time period the car will accumulate light dust and was wondering if a quick detailer (meguiars) will help clean that off so I can proceed to polish on clean paint?
Click to expand...



That makes it even tougher. I'd get some ONR and quickly QD (more like "rewash") the car with that when you get home.
 
Accumulator said:
Yes, you're understanding it correctly.



BUT....get the compound too because I'm pretty sure you'll need it, at least in places.











There can be surprising differences when you're using them, and some of those surprises can be unpleasant (voice of experience). For OTC clay I'd get Griot's (check Advance Auto), or Mothers, or (maybe the best choice) Clay Magic Blue. I do best with a dedicated clay lube, but others are happy with shampoo mix.









I could (some will say I *should*) write a book on how to wash! No, the process shouldn't mar the paint, but that's "ideally, in theory" and in practice most people do mar it up. The polish should diminish this marring and the wax will a) hide it a little (very little) and more importantly b) keep contaminants from adhering so firmly which will allow gentle wash techniques to clean 'em off.



Here's the big Q- How much do you care?







That makes it even tougher. I'd get some ONR and quickly QD (more like "rewash") the car with that when you get home.
Click to expand...



I care enough, but not to the point where I have to spend alot of money on products. I want to achieve that 'wet' and slick look on the paint like these cars:



DSCN0629.jpg


Mustangdetail002.jpg




I found these pics in that entertaining thread a few threads down (lol), pics courtesy of DaGonz



so I'll use compound on areas that are more prone to getting dirty like the lower half of the car basically.



i'll wash, clay bar while the soap is on the car? Or use a detailer on top of the soap and clay for better glide?



go home, use ONR, then compound, polish, wax. How long do you wait between applying compound, polish, and wax?
 
Howard4Lakers said:
I care enough, but not to the point where I have to spend alot of money on products. I want to achieve that 'wet' and slick look on the paint like these cars...
Click to expand...



Well, to get that level of results you'll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I'm not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.





so I'll use compound on areas that are more prone to getting dirty like the lower half of the car basically.
Click to expand...



No. The compound is for "sanding" the paint smooth where it has significant marring (scratches/etc.). I wouldn't think of it as being much related to how dirty a given area gets. What areas usually need compound IMO?...the hood, because people always care how it looks; around the door handles because those areas get scratched up; the trunk lid if somebody's touching it (that's a huge :nono ) when they close it; the front bumpercover, which gets etched from bugs/etc.



i'll wash, clay bar while the soap is on the car? Or use a detailer on top of the soap and clay for better glide?
Click to expand...



Are you sure you want to clay-while-washing? Many people do it, but it makes the whole thing a bit trickier as you can't let anything dry on the paint while you're spending time on whatever section you'r claying.



Generally, just follow the instructions that come with the clay, and/or do some research to see how others are doing it.



If you don't do it correctly, the clay will pick up abrasive contamination, hence becoming sandpaper, and will then mar up the paint.



go home, use ONR, then compound, polish, wax. How long do you wait between applying compound, polish, and wax?
Click to expand...



I think something's unclear here... :think: ... the compound and polish are simply "liquid sandpaper" products that smooth/level the paint. Once you buff away their residue there's nothing left so there's no need to wait between those processes.



Be sure to do a "test spot", a representative area that you can work on easily and clearly observe/evaluate. I'd probably pick a spot on the trunk lid. Use the compound, then the polish, maybe even the wax, on that one spot and inspect it *thoroughly* to make sure that your process is working OK. If something's amiss, you don't want to do the whole car before you find out. Note that the lighting under which you work, and more importantly under which you *inspect* is utterly crucial; you have to see what's going on so you can tell if all is well.
 
Accumulator said:
Well, to get that level of results you'll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I'm not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.









No. The compound is for "sanding" the paint smooth where it has significant marring (scratches/etc.). I wouldn't think of it as being much related to how dirty a given area gets. What areas usually need compound IMO?...the hood, because people always care how it looks; around the door handles because those areas get scratched up; the trunk lid if somebody's touching it (that's a huge :nono ) when they close it; the front bumpercover, which gets etched from bugs/etc.







Are you sure you want to clay-while-washing? Many people do it, but it makes the whole thing a bit trickier as you can't let anything dry on the paint while you're spending time on whatever section you'r claying.



Generally, just follow the instructions that come with the clay, and/or do some research to see how others are doing it.



If you don't do it correctly, the clay will pick up abrasive contamination, hence becoming sandpaper, and will then mar up the paint.







I think something's unclear here... :think: ... the compound and polish are simply "liquid sandpaper" products that smooth/level the paint. Once you buff away their residue there's nothing left so there's no need to wait between those processes.



Be sure to do a "test spot", a representative area that you can work on easily and clearly observe/evaluate. I'd probably pick a spot on the trunk lid. Use the compound, then the polish, maybe even the wax, on that one spot and inspect it *thoroughly* to make sure that your process is working OK. If something's amiss, you don't want to do the whole car before you find out. Note that the lighting under which you work, and more importantly under which you *inspect* is utterly crucial; you have to see what's going on so you can tell if all is well.
Click to expand...



thanks for clearing things up lol. I just want to be equipped with the proper knowledge before i do anything, so I don't waste my time. I've youtubed plenty techniques on how to use a polisher, how to apply the wax properly. So I don't want to make it all go to waste.



Yeah I'll definitely look up how to clay, usually I see people do it using a detailer.



Besides that, does the entire step by step procedure look fine to you, except for the claying while washing?



Accumulator said:
Well, to get that level of results you'll need a polisher and, more imprtantly, a fair amount of time, effort, and *experience*.



And the biggest challenge will be keeping it that nice for more than a few weeks. I'm not kidding about how critical the wash regimen is; if you mar the paint during a wash all that polishing/etc. is for naught.
Click to expand...



I will have the time, put in the effort and gain experience. Guess I only need a polisher then.



I'm guessing this will take the whole day? Leaving in the midst of it, lets say after polishing, and waxing the next day wouldn't be beneficial would it?
 
Howard4Lakers said:
thanks for clearing things up lol. I just want to be equipped with the proper knowledge before i do anything, so I don't waste my time....
Click to expand...



Good plan :xyxthumbs



Yeah, I think you have the right idea:

-Wash

-Clay

-Test Spot with Compound, then Polish, then Wax

-Inspect Test Spot in demanding lighting

-Adjust process as needed until OK

-Do rest of vehicle



I will have the time, put in the effort and gain experience. Guess I only need a polisher then.
Click to expand...



I'd get the Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital with the long cord option.



I'm guessing this will take the whole day? Leaving in the midst of it, lets say after polishing, and waxing the next day wouldn't be beneficial would it?
Click to expand...



It can take *several* days, don't underestimate how long! If you take breaks, ONR again to get any dirt off before you resume.



You might want to do it section-by-section, doing say....one or two panels at a time after each of a series of "regular washes". Like, Wash the car, but only clay the trunk lid, then do the test spot on the trunk lid (Compound, Polish, and Wax). Keep an eye on it until the next wash to see if you really did OK. Then after the next wash either redo/fix the trunklid if it's not quite right, or repeat the process on another panel or two. Takes a while, but this way the vehicle won't end up 1/3-done in an awkward way (like...compounded but not polished/waxed) and IMO you won't be tempted to rush anything due to running out of time. When the whole thing's finally done, just give it all another coat of wax to "even everything out".
 
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