I have a Porsche 911 that is about 1 1/2 years old. I've never conditioned the leather. It's in brand new condition, the reason I have not conditioned it is because I'm afraid I'll lose that great smell that it had from the factory. I have 3 leather conditioners, Lexol, Griots, and Zaino. From my personal experience Griots seems seems to leave the nicest finish and smell. When I've used Zaino it seems to leave a really slick finish which I don't like and it also smelled a little too strong. Anyone else have any opinions?
Leather Conditioner
- Thread starter jw
- Start date
Harry Houdini
New member
I found the safest to use is water based product,
some of those u named might be water based
but for my own cars like the M6 I have I will never use anything
other than Leather Master products, I only apply the process twice a year
and it does last forever, only a cleaner and a protection that I use
Edit: Just got Vital from DD also going to be added to the process,
Vital is to applied to dried out leather like driver seat because of use.
Thanks Scott
some of those u named might be water based
but for my own cars like the M6 I have I will never use anything
other than Leather Master products, I only apply the process twice a year
and it does last forever, only a cleaner and a protection that I use
Edit: Just got Vital from DD also going to be added to the process,
Vital is to applied to dried out leather like driver seat because of use.
Thanks Scott
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
Ditch the Lexol. It was really designed for saddle and tack leathers, then marketed for automotive as a marketing way to sell much more of the product.
Do not use Hide Food type conditioners for coated leathers. It contains solvents and can react with the coating used on todays leather. It's a great product for old English leathers or other uncoated natural leather that dries out.
For Porsche: Sonus, Zaino, 1Z Lederpflege. Read this info on treating leather from 1Z (Einszette) here: Leather Conditioner - Guide to Proper Leather Care - einszett
I've used the Sonus with good results. Zaino also works very well. 1Z is a great product directly from Germany and same as Porsche leather conditioner without the black bottle big $$.
CLeaning: Woolite and water as most cleaners are nothing more than soap/water mix with coloring (you don't want) and fragrence (you really do not need). I use white cotton towels to gauge how dirty it is. Lastly, I mist with a fine amount of distilled water to get all soap off before I treat. I wait 24 hours to make sure all of the moisture is off the coated leather, then I treat the leather LIGHTLY!.
Regards,
Deanski
Do not use Hide Food type conditioners for coated leathers. It contains solvents and can react with the coating used on todays leather. It's a great product for old English leathers or other uncoated natural leather that dries out.
For Porsche: Sonus, Zaino, 1Z Lederpflege. Read this info on treating leather from 1Z (Einszette) here: Leather Conditioner - Guide to Proper Leather Care - einszett
I've used the Sonus with good results. Zaino also works very well. 1Z is a great product directly from Germany and same as Porsche leather conditioner without the black bottle big $$.
CLeaning: Woolite and water as most cleaners are nothing more than soap/water mix with coloring (you don't want) and fragrence (you really do not need). I use white cotton towels to gauge how dirty it is. Lastly, I mist with a fine amount of distilled water to get all soap off before I treat. I wait 24 hours to make sure all of the moisture is off the coated leather, then I treat the leather LIGHTLY!.
Regards,
Deanski
Thomas Dekany
New member
You must have not worked in the Zaino. It is the best of the ones you have mentioned IMO.
shakashaunz
New member
If you love that fresh leather smell give Prima Nourish a try. I got a sample of it before it was released and I like it a lot. It smells of fresh leather and leavs a nice feel to the leather.
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
Porsche leather has a very unique smell to it. Not many leather conditioners can match it and some can overpower it.
It takes a few tests to find the right one for Porsche leather.
One day, go to a Porsche dealer and sit in a coupe that has "full leather" interior and you'll understand it has a very unique leather odor.
So far, Sonus, 1Z are the closest match. Zaino workes well, but I still find it a bit strong even working it long. Nothing wrong with Zaino, as it's the best water based conditioner I've used. As with all Zaino products, I think the error is using too much of the conditioner. I have to re-test that theory.
I'm very fussy as to what goes in my 997 C2S! You would too!!
Deanski
It takes a few tests to find the right one for Porsche leather.
One day, go to a Porsche dealer and sit in a coupe that has "full leather" interior and you'll understand it has a very unique leather odor.
So far, Sonus, 1Z are the closest match. Zaino workes well, but I still find it a bit strong even working it long. Nothing wrong with Zaino, as it's the best water based conditioner I've used. As with all Zaino products, I think the error is using too much of the conditioner. I have to re-test that theory.
I'm very fussy as to what goes in my 997 C2S! You would too!!
Deanski
imported_detailjohn
New member
I recommend Hide Food. You can purchase this from a local Jaguar dealership. It's developed for the Connelly leather that comes in English cars. Works really really well.
John
John
detailjohn said:
Well, according to Deanski... using the Hide food conditioner would be a bad idea in this case. I too have some of the Connolly stuff, but I've only tried it once on my e36 M3 that has since been sold. I don't really care for the stuff as it is a pain to apply with it being a paste. If I actually had a car for the type of leather it was designed for then I'd probably use it again, but otherwise no.
I have been using Lexol for quite some time now, but perhaps I shouldn't if what Deanski posts is true. I do really like the smell of the Lexol though. I also have some Optimum Protectant Plus that I have yet to use on leather.
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
detailjohn said:
No:nono You have to have "Porsche Natural Leather" for Hide Food. "Natural Leather" from Porsche is untreated Aniline leather. If you have "Natural Leather" from Porsche, you should have a different tag on it, or a hand out on care of it. Is it natural brown/tan looking? It may be Aniline.
Coated leather in all Porsche cars today are coated leather and should be treated as such. The use of Aniline leather conditioner on coated leather can have a bad reaction. Most contain solvents, oils etc that are to get into leather fibers of uncoated Aniline leathers. On coated leathers it can break down the coating, pass onto clothing, loosen stiching for coated as opposed to Aniline thread.
Still, I stick with Sonus and 1Z Lederflege for this.
Deanski
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
clnfrk said:
Lexol out of the bottle smells terrible for one. They did start adding some leather fragrence to get over it.
But, long ago when Lexol was used only for tack gear, someone in marketing started trying it on automotive leathers years ago. This is when most leather was still Aniline which then Lexol worked well for. They started marketing it for the auto industry with great results. It then started really caching off into a market where you could find it at car washes, exotic car retail stores many years ago. Today, more car washes still carry it.
Today, it's been reformulated to work a bit better with coated leathers, but try it on a baseball mitt and see for yourself. It soaks right into the untreated leather very well.
You really have to look at leather conditioners that are strickly for automotive use.
If it's treated, go with a mild conditioner and apply thin. If it's not treated, go with Lexol, Hide Food, Letherique etc.
On treated leather, Zaino works well if you want that leather smell. Zaino wins on the leather smell quite well. It was also based off German leather skins to gain it's leather fragrence.
It's all hit and miss to find that "perfect" matching new order you had when new.
Porsche leather being very unique is a bit harder to match on smell/odor.
Regards,
Deanski
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
Still finding Sonus the closest match for Porsche leather. Once cleaned first and the leather fully dry, an application of Sonus works well. Close the doors. After say 1/2 hour, open the doors and be greeted to that same smell when you took delivery.
Also, another great aspect of Sonus, it makes the leather seem a bit more "grip" to it, soft, no greasy feel at all, in fact the opposite. When I did a DE after treatment, I noticed that I was not moving in my A.S.S. (Adaptive Sport Seats) at all. No sliding, no slippery feel, just a clean feel to it.
If you have a Porsche, you have to give Sonus a try, but make sure the leather is fully clean and dry for best results.
Deanski
Also, another great aspect of Sonus, it makes the leather seem a bit more "grip" to it, soft, no greasy feel at all, in fact the opposite. When I did a DE after treatment, I noticed that I was not moving in my A.S.S. (Adaptive Sport Seats) at all. No sliding, no slippery feel, just a clean feel to it.
If you have a Porsche, you have to give Sonus a try, but make sure the leather is fully clean and dry for best results.
Deanski
Envious Eric
New member
ok all this talk about porsches and what not, but what about the average DD car...what leather care for the majority of the cars on the road...
I am almost out of the megs detailer line leather cleaner/conditioner...i dont really care for it too much
OPP - doesnt really work well on leather...at least I dont like it...I used to use it, but a dedicated leather conditioner works better, now I am just trying to find one that works well..
I am almost out of the megs detailer line leather cleaner/conditioner...i dont really care for it too much
OPP - doesnt really work well on leather...at least I dont like it...I used to use it, but a dedicated leather conditioner works better, now I am just trying to find one that works well..
judyb
New member
Leather does not need 'conditioning'. The only conditioner leather needs is moisture so you need to use a water based cleaner and protector and this will keep your leather in good 'condition'.
TO FEED OR PROTECT
There is still a huge body of detailers out there (and a good percentage of upholstery cleaners/leather technicians/retailers/consumers) who are desperate to ‘feed’ and/or ‘condition’ their leather. Usually this would consist of spreading some sort of oil or grease containing product onto their leather (milk, Vaseline, baby oil, musk oil being some of the more bizarre we have come across!!!!).
What we ask is why?
When leather is manufactured a certain amount of oil and fat is introduced into the hide and, (with the exception of one or two complex situations) this is where it stays. It does not evaporate or migrate or leave the leather by any other means.
What does leave the leather is moisture (water), and it is this that needs replacing.
Dry leather is more susceptible to a whole range of problems. The most obvious is cracking, both of finish and fibres.
Next is raised absorbency levels which means body oils containing fats and acids will more readily soak into the leather (ever seen those dark areas on head rests and arm ends on furniture) eventually destroying finishes and the leather itself.
Dry leather will be a sponge for spills, tea, coffee, red wine, ink, any product with colouring once soaked inside leather will leave a permanent stain, which depending on leather type may or may not be fixable�at a price.
Some hide foods and conditioners if properly formulated and used correctly with leather type taken into account will not damage the leather, others particularly if they contain waxes and silicones are likely to do more harm than good. The basis of a good type would be an emulsion of lanoline and water. The water re-hydrates and the lanoline helps the leather to hold the moisture for a little longer. This does not , however address the issue of protecting the leather. But it is cheap to manufacture and therefore can be sold at a low price (or an expensive price if it has a 'name' attached to it!!).
Leather Protectors on the other hand are a complex formulation and the ingredients are expensive, therefore the end product is more costly, often 2-3 times the price of a conditioner. BUT THEY DO WORK.. We always use the ‘Scotchgard’ analogy to explain how, without getting technical it is the easiest way. Its effectiveness can also be demonstrated. Leather Protector performs all the good functions of a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but will leave a virtually invisible, breathable, non greasy coating on the surface. This will be effective at helping to resist stains via spillages, dye transfer and day to day soiling, including body oils… It is not bullet proof and the leather still needs cleaning, but the dirt will be sitting in or on the protector and will clean off more effectively. During the cleaning process the protective element will also be reduced and need replacing. Good Protectors also contain UV protection which will help against fading etc. in sunnier climes.
How often is the next question and a tricky one to answer. Some leathers we would recommend a light clean and protect once a month, others a good clean and protect 1-2 times per year. There are so many finishes on the market at present that it is not wise to generalize. Experience and knowledge is the best guide. However on most car leathers 1-2 times per year should suffice.
Bottom line– to treat furniture with a good quality Leather Protector will probably cost a little more per average car than a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but the benefits far out way this cost and the effects can be demonstrated for your customer to see.
©Andy Alcock LTT2006
The question of smell is a tricky one. The smell comes from the chemicals used in the tanning process and not from the leather therefore the range of smells is enormous and each car may have a different one depending on where the leather was produced. Replicating this smell has been a frustrating excercise for many a car manufacturer. From experience we have found that most products do not 'smell' as your custmer would understand the 'leather smell' to be and any smell does not last long. It is far better to use a seperate 'leather aroma' after you have finished your work. This will last much longer.
Hope this helps
TO FEED OR PROTECT
There is still a huge body of detailers out there (and a good percentage of upholstery cleaners/leather technicians/retailers/consumers) who are desperate to ‘feed’ and/or ‘condition’ their leather. Usually this would consist of spreading some sort of oil or grease containing product onto their leather (milk, Vaseline, baby oil, musk oil being some of the more bizarre we have come across!!!!).
What we ask is why?
When leather is manufactured a certain amount of oil and fat is introduced into the hide and, (with the exception of one or two complex situations) this is where it stays. It does not evaporate or migrate or leave the leather by any other means.
What does leave the leather is moisture (water), and it is this that needs replacing.
Dry leather is more susceptible to a whole range of problems. The most obvious is cracking, both of finish and fibres.
Next is raised absorbency levels which means body oils containing fats and acids will more readily soak into the leather (ever seen those dark areas on head rests and arm ends on furniture) eventually destroying finishes and the leather itself.
Dry leather will be a sponge for spills, tea, coffee, red wine, ink, any product with colouring once soaked inside leather will leave a permanent stain, which depending on leather type may or may not be fixable�at a price.
Some hide foods and conditioners if properly formulated and used correctly with leather type taken into account will not damage the leather, others particularly if they contain waxes and silicones are likely to do more harm than good. The basis of a good type would be an emulsion of lanoline and water. The water re-hydrates and the lanoline helps the leather to hold the moisture for a little longer. This does not , however address the issue of protecting the leather. But it is cheap to manufacture and therefore can be sold at a low price (or an expensive price if it has a 'name' attached to it!!).
Leather Protectors on the other hand are a complex formulation and the ingredients are expensive, therefore the end product is more costly, often 2-3 times the price of a conditioner. BUT THEY DO WORK.. We always use the ‘Scotchgard’ analogy to explain how, without getting technical it is the easiest way. Its effectiveness can also be demonstrated. Leather Protector performs all the good functions of a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but will leave a virtually invisible, breathable, non greasy coating on the surface. This will be effective at helping to resist stains via spillages, dye transfer and day to day soiling, including body oils… It is not bullet proof and the leather still needs cleaning, but the dirt will be sitting in or on the protector and will clean off more effectively. During the cleaning process the protective element will also be reduced and need replacing. Good Protectors also contain UV protection which will help against fading etc. in sunnier climes.
How often is the next question and a tricky one to answer. Some leathers we would recommend a light clean and protect once a month, others a good clean and protect 1-2 times per year. There are so many finishes on the market at present that it is not wise to generalize. Experience and knowledge is the best guide. However on most car leathers 1-2 times per year should suffice.
Bottom line– to treat furniture with a good quality Leather Protector will probably cost a little more per average car than a ‘conditioner’ or ‘food’ product but the benefits far out way this cost and the effects can be demonstrated for your customer to see.
©Andy Alcock LTT2006
The question of smell is a tricky one. The smell comes from the chemicals used in the tanning process and not from the leather therefore the range of smells is enormous and each car may have a different one depending on where the leather was produced. Replicating this smell has been a frustrating excercise for many a car manufacturer. From experience we have found that most products do not 'smell' as your custmer would understand the 'leather smell' to be and any smell does not last long. It is far better to use a seperate 'leather aroma' after you have finished your work. This will last much longer.
Hope this helps
imported_artikxscout
New member
subscribed.
I use Sonus to clean my leather and use a 1:1 mixture of 303 and distilled water for protection....I like the natural look of leather. I am new to this but from the info on this forum ...I have decided to try this and see how it works. If I have to tweak it well that is why I love all the info here.:2thumbs:
brwill2005
New member
suki22 said:
I agree with the 303 as that is what I use on leather, but why dilute it?