judyb
New member
Has 303 been specifically tested on leather? and does it work as a leather protector or just a UV protector
Leather Conditioner
- Thread starter jw
- Start date
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
303 was used mostly for vinyl/plastic and synthetic leathers, but never used it or hear that it can be used on leather.
I'd stay with true leather care products for coated leathers and use sunshields in the windshield if at all possible to protect the interior.
For general uses, I'm still using Zaino for leather treatments. Matches Lexus leather as close as you can get for smell/odor.
The older Zymol Treat was a great conditioner, but it's been reformulated and does not perform as before.
Good old Meguiars works well for daily drivers and can be used often with good results.
1Z Lederfledge works well on coated leather, Autoglym as well.
These are just some of the products I use for treated/coated leathers.
Natural leather: Leatherique oil and clean products.
Please, read the labels on any product you want to use, know which leather you have then always test in an area not seen.
Regards,
Deanski
I'd stay with true leather care products for coated leathers and use sunshields in the windshield if at all possible to protect the interior.
For general uses, I'm still using Zaino for leather treatments. Matches Lexus leather as close as you can get for smell/odor.
The older Zymol Treat was a great conditioner, but it's been reformulated and does not perform as before.
Good old Meguiars works well for daily drivers and can be used often with good results.
1Z Lederfledge works well on coated leather, Autoglym as well.
These are just some of the products I use for treated/coated leathers.
Natural leather: Leatherique oil and clean products.
Please, read the labels on any product you want to use, know which leather you have then always test in an area not seen.
Regards,
Deanski
judyb said:
I emailed 303 and they said you could use 303 diluted on coated leather for UV protection. Also by cutting the 303 it leaves a natural look. I have used this only once as I usually just wipe down the leather with a damp cotton towel with distilled water. It might be a little overkill because I use a windshield sunshade and all my windows are tinted. I am wary of trying a conditioner....I have the Sonus conditioner but have not tried it yet.................:nervous2:
imported_DieselMDX
New member
where does leatherique sit in all of this?
steelwind101
New member
For me it can only be WOLFGANG leather care!
Does anyone else find the SONUS leather cleaner to be absolute garbage? I LOVE the SONUS leather conditioner and find it funny that 1/2 of the duo can be so good with the other being so bad.
Id like to know as well. Ive had a bottle of each PC and RO for awhile now and have yet to use them.
DieselMDX said:
Id like to know as well. Ive had a bottle of each PC and RO for awhile now and have yet to use them.
My theory on why most leather cleaners are garbage for the sheer fact that the most effective and simplest solution is a mild detergent mixture, and they all know this. Therefore, they have no reason to put that much effort into creating a cleaner that works. I'm fairly certain the majority of the company's haven't started out spending the majority of their R&D on a cleaner and then thought, hey we should make a conditioner, too. It's usually the other way around. I would think people spend the most time on a conditioner but realize there is a cleaning step before this, so why not address it with another product for their line, market it as a duo, and make people think they spent more time on creating a complementary duo, rather than an addition to their original work.
Bottom line is that I'm not really aware of any cleaner that works better than a simple and safe mild detergent mixture. As for the conditioner, there are plenty out there that work well, but don't look great, look great but don't work well, and those that do neither. At this point, I just don't feel there is one go-to product that can can provide full protection while satisfying the need for eye-candy appearance. I could be wrong, and as a matter of fact would prefer to be.
Bottom line is that I'm not really aware of any cleaner that works better than a simple and safe mild detergent mixture. As for the conditioner, there are plenty out there that work well, but don't look great, look great but don't work well, and those that do neither. At this point, I just don't feel there is one go-to product that can can provide full protection while satisfying the need for eye-candy appearance. I could be wrong, and as a matter of fact would prefer to be.
BuffMe,
I think you might be missing a couple of very important data points. First, and very important, is the pH of the cleaner. If you were to use a cleaner like Dawn liquid in a bucket of warm water, the pH is pretty safe (not too bad on hands, right?). The same is not true of 409 or Simple Green. These detergents will leach the moisture out of the leather, and you will start having premature wear and drying.
Another factor is the residue the cleaner leaves behind. Some soaps and detergents leave a lot of residue. The residue needs to be rinsed away before applying conditioner. That means a second step and potentially wetting the leather too much.
I believe there is a lot more science in leather cleaners than you may think.
I think you might be missing a couple of very important data points. First, and very important, is the pH of the cleaner. If you were to use a cleaner like Dawn liquid in a bucket of warm water, the pH is pretty safe (not too bad on hands, right?). The same is not true of 409 or Simple Green. These detergents will leach the moisture out of the leather, and you will start having premature wear and drying.
Another factor is the residue the cleaner leaves behind. Some soaps and detergents leave a lot of residue. The residue needs to be rinsed away before applying conditioner. That means a second step and potentially wetting the leather too much.
I believe there is a lot more science in leather cleaners than you may think.
DavidB said:
I totally understand that, and I think I didn't communicate specifically enough that when I say a "mild and safe detergent", I mean one that does exactly what you describe. It is mild enough for safe use on the leather's protective layer (whatever it may be) and won't leave enough of a residue behind to inhibit the protection step. For example, a 15:1 water and Woolite mixture.
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
suki22 said:
303 says you can use it for anything/everything. They detail on their website how you can use it instead of wax on your car's paint. I'm not saying that it isn't great for leather (I myself have only used it on plastic/vinyl/rubber), just playing devil's advocate and pointing out that they recommend its use for a lot of things that people might find of questionable utility. Here's a quote about the cleaner: " It sounds strange, we know, but 303 Aerospace Cleaner is powerful enough to clean oil tanker holds and degrease engines, yet is safe enough to wash fruits and vegetables!"
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
DieselMDX said:
Mostly used for uncoated leathers, but quite a few have used it on coated leather as well, which is overkill and seems too slippery after oil/cleans. It may take a few tries to get it right on coated.
But... on uncoated old leather, this stuff is like leather fountain of youth!
I use Leatherique on all uncoated and old leather as long as it will not chnage the color which it can on some, that's why I test areas not seen for reaction.
Most coated leather today is just like a clearcoat only flexable and it does wear off with time and friction. As long as you keep it clean and treated with mild conditioners, coated leaters stay longer in both color, wear, feel etc.
Regards,
Deanski
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
jb1 said:
If you read your Lexus Owners Manual on the cleaning leather, it will state to use mild detergent to clean the leather (Woolite) which works very well. If it's lightly dirty, 15:1 and work up if needed. Do not soak the snot out of the leather, but use a spray bottle to mist it on, use a natural stiff brush if dirt will not remove by wipe. I use 100% USA white cotton towels to wipe and gauge how dirty. You don't have to "rinse", but sometimes it can be a benifit. Use distilled water, lightly mist and rub off right away so the water is only on the surface.
After this, I'd let it dry for as long as possible. If you can keep a window rolled down or keep it warm enough, you want the leather to release as much moisture from the surface and any that goes pass the coating via seams etc.
A light treatment of Zaino Z-10 conditioner, wipe off and close the doors. After say 1/2 hour, open the door and be greeted by the same smell you had when you took delivery of your Lexus, minus the plastic overtones.
I used this all the time on my SC430 and when I returned the car off lease, dealer wanted to know how the hell I kept an Ecru interior so perfect and smelling like it never left the showroom or lot. Ecru was a real PITA to keep clean and I had to stay on top of it quite often.
Now, my leather is black. One extreme to another!:chuckle:
Deanski
imported_DieselMDX
New member
Deanski said:
thanx for the advice
Deanski
STUTTGART'S FINEST
jb1 said:
Glad to help. I sometimes miss the SC430. Nice to have a hardtop convertible!
Deanski
Harry Houdini
New member
DieselMDX said:
no offense but my leatherque was dumped in the trash "both quarts",
not easy to use
messy
what else?
oh hassle!
I will stick to leather master!
Deanski
Thanks for the info, you learn something everyday and those manufacturers
don't stress enough on coated or uncoated leathers, thus confusing almost everyone
with their products, besides how would an average person know the difference?
judyb
New member
Leather Master are good products and work on the principle of water based cleaners and protectors as ours do. Five years ago they were the best brand on the market for this type of system although now there are some stronger protectors available.
Coated and uncoated leathers are easy to identify with a simple moisture test. Coated (finished) leathers do not absorb whereas uncoated (unfinished) ones do.
Much of the leather in older cars was of the unfinished type and as it was tanned in a different way there are different ways of treating it. Most of todays leathers in cars are finished to a very high level which means that they cannot absorb all the treatments that people are trying to use on them.
Unfortunately the old theories of 'feeding' and 'conditioning' leather have been passed own the line to the new finished leathers and it is very difficult to help people understand that they are simply wasting money on products that at best do nothing and at worst may lead to the finish being damaged.
Hope this helps
Coated and uncoated leathers are easy to identify with a simple moisture test. Coated (finished) leathers do not absorb whereas uncoated (unfinished) ones do.
Much of the leather in older cars was of the unfinished type and as it was tanned in a different way there are different ways of treating it. Most of todays leathers in cars are finished to a very high level which means that they cannot absorb all the treatments that people are trying to use on them.
Unfortunately the old theories of 'feeding' and 'conditioning' leather have been passed own the line to the new finished leathers and it is very difficult to help people understand that they are simply wasting money on products that at best do nothing and at worst may lead to the finish being damaged.
Hope this helps
Woob
New member
judyb said:
Thanks for the info, which are better on the market? General trends for Leather are that they are coated.