Le Mans Blue BMW M5 Paint Correction

Spectacular work there Rick! I know you worked very hard on this one and you earned your money.



I still can not beleive how bad the pollen was coming down that day.
 
RickRack said:
Thanks!

I was a little skeptical at first, but I did an entire panel with it and was pleasantly surprised after I wiped it down with 91% alcohol after. It actually cut better than 3M Extra Cut and left a much better finish. This paint was rock-hard and the Uno really worked great. I might have been able to go straight to a finishing polish after, but since I had used a woolpad, I didn't want to take any chances. SIP on a yellow pad cleaned up the compounding haze with no effort at all.



I can't wait to experiment a little more with it. I bought some MV350 and IP200 as well that I have yet to try. I'll be sure to let you know the more I work with it.
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Qwik kut MV-350 is a very nice compound, don´t know if it´s more abrasive then the UNO, but both should be P1000-1200 if I remember things right?



I have the Phase V, MV-350, Mystique, IP200 and Glisten sealant. All are very nice products. The compounds are fast and effective and leaves a very nice finish.
 
drew.haynes- If you don't know what you are doing, all edges are easy to burn. I just let the buffer do the work applying barely any pressure using the edge of the pad. I usually slow my speed down and make very slow passes to really work the product in.



Sludge- Thanks! The car is absolutely beautiful in person.



Rydawg- Thanks Ryan. Yes, I definitely worked hard on this one! I totally under estimated the job by about 10 hours, but that's just the nature of detailing. Just when you think it's going to be a normal detail it turns into a timely affair. It's been a while since I have polished an M5 and forgot how rock-hard the paint was.



tdekany- Thanks Thomas, but I think you got the wrong guy!! Ha, ha...



awahl63- Thanks Andrew! It is definitely one of my favorite BMW colors.



Porta- I did try the MV350 on a small spot and seemed to work very well. The Uno worked surprisingly well and can't wait to try it out on different paints. It's got a perfect working time with no gumming issues and very minimal dusting. What do you think of the IP200? I have not used it yet.



zoomzoom mazda5- Thanks Angelo!
 
Picus said:
Nice work Rick. Is it just me or is the sun always shining when you take outside pics? :D
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He is so lucky!



I know Rick, what's up with that?:nixweiss

We are in the same shop and I never get sun. It's either too late or raining.:wall
 
Awesome job. May I ask why after claying and wash that you did a body solvent wipedown and an alcohol wipedown before polishing?
 
Picus- Thanks! Most of the cars I work on are left for a few days, so I am usually able to get a few nice sun shots. I usually don't post cars up if I am not able to get any good sun shots or halogen pics. Every car looks great in the shade!



Rydawg- Ha,ha... I guess I'm just lucky! I really hate taking pictures of cars in the winter time in New England because they just look so blah. It's nice to have the sun out for most of the day during the summer and have some nice colorful backgrounds for pictures.



awahl- Too funny...



Legacy99- Thanks! The reason for the solvent and alcohol wipedown is to ensure that there are absolutely no traces of previous waxes, polish residue, oils or silicones that may be present which can interfere with the polishing process. Some products (especially silicone) tend to deeply embed themselves in the paint and are extremely difficult to remove. A clay bar will only remove bonded contaminants from the top surface of the paint, but the use of a solvent / alcohol really seems to break them down better.



Have you ever tried to polish a car and noticed that even the heaviest compound won't even cut into the paint and your pad just seems to glide over it? Basically, whatever product that was previously applied creates a protective barrier, which is very hard to break through. By removing all traces of previous products used, it can save you hours and hours of polishing.



TH0001- Thanks a lot Todd!
 
Awesome job sir!!

the paint looks really deep in the after pictures.



Hope it's okay to ask, what do you think about using a twisted wool pad instead of doing 3-4 passes on the purple foamed wool?
 
RickRack said:
Picus- Thanks! Most of the cars I work on are left for a few days, so I am usually able to get a few nice sun shots. I usually don't post cars up if I am not able to get any good sun shots or halogen pics. Every car looks great in the shade!
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Ah, that explains it. I love your posts because I always know I'll have gratuitous sun shots. :D If only we could all summon the sun...or keep the cars haha.
 
fishbonezken- Thanks!



I only like using twisted wool pads if it is absolutely necessary. I always take the least agressive approach when polishing, even if it takes a little more time. The PFL is a little safer and easier to get in the tight areas of the car, which is why I chose to use it instead. Sometimes twisted wool pads leave some heavy pad abrasions on certain paints that can be very difficult to remove. I did try a small area with a yellow Edge wool pad, but liked the finish that the PFW pad was producing.



Picus- Ha,ha... I'll try to send some sun over your way!
 
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