Layering Poly Wax

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So, recently our R&D team was testing layering Liquid Gloss Poly Wax and found a little trick. Apply and remove the first coat and let it sit for 24 hours without exposure to anything. Then apply the second coat. The resulting protection is "semi-permanent." It's lasted through 40 Dawn dish soup washes... and counting!
 
Re: Best Wax, Sealant or Coating for Protection Durability and Shedding

So, recently our R&D team.. found a little trick. Apply and remove the first coat and let it sit for 24 hours without exposure to anything. Then apply the second coat...

IME that's a good approach for many LSPs, and also for some products that "shouldn't layer".

And it sounds like you have a good product in that Liquid Gloss Poly Wax!
 
Re: Best Wax, Sealant or Coating for Protection Durability and Shedding

IME that's a good approach for many LSPs, and also for some products that "shouldn't layer".

And it sounds like you have a good product in that Liquid Gloss Poly Wax!

Layering can be a polarizing topic which is why we've tested it so much. It definitely works wonders with Poly Wax

 

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Re: Best Wax, Sealant or Coating for Protection Durability and Shedding

Layering can be a polarizing topic ...

Heh heh...yeah, ain't that the truth!?! Especially I guess coming from a vendor, you know..the old "they just want you to use/buy more product" argument.

So, just for the record ;) when you say

It definitely works wonders with Poly Wax..

I believe you.
 
I did this once when I over applied Klasse SG. Worked very well but it took too long (24 hours and then 12 more hours for the 2nd application to cure enough to drive - "daily driver problem").
 
Bill-- How is the resistance to bird bombs and spotting is Poly Wax? Have you done any testing in this area?
 
Bill-- How is the resistance to bird bombs and spotting is Poly Wax? Have you done any testing in this area?

Bird dirt is obviously very acidic so if left on too long, it will etch at some point. All of the cars with Poly Wax on them have had bird droppings wiped off within 24 hours and there has been no etching.

We might have to find a bird-friendly street light to park under for awhile!
 
Oldfordisbetter- Noting that caveat above, from the people who should know...whenever I use a made-for-paint LSP on trim I use the W-O-W-O approach rather than letting it dry. Sounds like that'd be appropriate in this case too, should you decide to try it.

If anybody *does* try it on trim, I'd love to hear how it works. (Another nod to the official recommendation that it not be used on trim, this is just Accumulator, not anybody who knows from this stuff.)
 
Poly Wax was formulated and tested to dry on clear but we still don't recommend direct application to trim.
If I would buy it I would machine apply: probably with my Cyclo. With the amount of trim most vehicles have these days im bound to get against it with my tool. So I should be fine if im careful and wipe it off quickly before it dries if I do get some on the trim.

And I hear wipeoff is super easy according to the reviews on your site.
 
I gotta get that Jeff Brown guy to leave a bottle with me next time he's over ;)

We used Poly Wax on this M3 he helped me with a few weeks ago...Definitely looked great!
 
Just out of curiosity, have you guys done any testing of the actual thickness of the product, after layering?
There was a guy on the UK forum that did this several years ago.
 
craigdt- Was the UK forum guy the person who "proved" (scare-quotes utterly intentional!) that Collinite "doesn't layer" (again intentional)?

Heh heh, it takes some pretty high-falutin' equipment to measure build-films that're *that* thin..just measuring microns takes a pretty decent ETG and often shows how much even factory paint thickness varies. Whole lot simpler/easier/cheaper, and IMO more productive, to just do your own LSP Layering Test on some representative panel IMO and see if the multiple applications make a diff for *you*. A huge part of my opinion on that is the way there are a few variables in play (application method, time between applications, and probably some others that I'm not thinking of) that can utterly skew the results depending on how the test is done.

It's subjective in the sense that different subjects can/will achieve different results.

Classic example is the layering of of Autoglym Super Resin Polish. It's an AIO that contains both (very) mild abrasives and chemical cleaners. "Shouldn't layer" according to the Conventional Wisdom on the subject. But it absolutely *CAN* be layered IF (awfully big "if" in this case) you go about it right.

(Noting that this is the Griot's Forum, my initial introduction to AutoGlym SRP was via one of Richard's earliest catalogs. Bought it from GG until they quit offering it.)
 
Yes, that was the one- he tested several different LSPs. If I remember correctly, it actually started losing thickness at the 3rd layer. He measured it at the nanometer level, which is a fraction of a micron.
 
craigdt- Yeah, OK. I couldn't wrap my head around how it worked out that way...not that I question his results, just whether they're...uhm, universally applicable. Even he got "layering" with the first additional one (at least the way you and I are remembering it).
 
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