Inspection lights in car detailing: Brinkmann vs Sun Gun vs other sources
- Thread starter MarcHarris
- Start date
Accumulator
Well-known member
bill57 said:
My only :argue with that is that it won't show holograms/pseudo-holograms. Well, not unless they're really awful. Heh heh, this always reminds me of how Mike Phillips has (good naturedly) teased me that nobody's going around inspecting my cars with a SunGun...my reply was that that *I* am doing that and I'm the only guy whose opinion matters :chuckle:
If/when the holograms aren't a concern, then I agree with you :xyxthumbs
addysdaddy
Member
This is one of those elusive items that you wind up buying a 100 different things but nothing quite does the job. We'll see if the light is to bright-should arrive Thursday . Right now I don't have enough light and the flashlight is capable of lower output in case it's required. And of course there is always the possibility of bouncing the light off the ceiling onto the area to create a broad soft light.
Accumulator
Well-known member
addysdaddy said:
Well, maybe it's more a case of each of those different things fills a little niche. Really, I use numerous types of lighting for any inspection that I'm doing "right" (and yeah...that means that I don't always do things to that Autopian level
).If you get a chance, post back about that light, both for detailing and other uses.
I suspect that bounce-lighting will work like a fluorescent, OK for "texture issues" but not for "swirls".
Bill D
Hooked For Life
I bought a battery operated Black and Decker LED spotlight but I'm going to return it. It doesn't perfrom quite as bright/ the same as the original one Barry uses. I'll stay tuned to the forums for the next Autopia-approved model.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
[Any ideas why different coloured cars react differently to various light sources]
The surface colour affects the way light is reflected from the surface, the lighter the colour (White / Silver) the higher the reflection and vies versa
Reflective Value (RV) - the reflective value of a colour indicates how much light and heat is reflected back from the colour surface.
Light reflectance value (LRV) is a numerical rating assigned by paint manufacturers to each colour they make. This number is a scientifically determined assessment of the amount light and heat that colour will reflect on a scale of 0 to 100.
The average blackest black has a light reflection value (LRV) of approximately 5% and the purest white is approximately 85%. Some yellows can measure up into the 80's or 90's as well. All colours fit in between these two extremes.
The surface colour affects the way light is reflected from the surface, the lighter the colour (White / Silver) the higher the reflection and vies versa
Reflective Value (RV) - the reflective value of a colour indicates how much light and heat is reflected back from the colour surface.
Light reflectance value (LRV) is a numerical rating assigned by paint manufacturers to each colour they make. This number is a scientifically determined assessment of the amount light and heat that colour will reflect on a scale of 0 to 100.
The average blackest black has a light reflection value (LRV) of approximately 5% and the purest white is approximately 85%. Some yellows can measure up into the 80's or 90's as well. All colours fit in between these two extremes.
Lowejackson
New member
TOGWT said:
Thank you for your answer
Bill D
Hooked For Life
pwaug said:
Thanks! I hope so. I recently checked Big Lots-no go, but I will go out and check Tuesday Morning--a better store in my area any way.
addysdaddy
Member
addysdaddy said:
Received the flashlight and gave it a try at night inside of the garage. At 1200 lumens its strong so the "hot spot" of the beam is not useful for evaluation purposes; however, as you move outward from the center the "white" light of the LED is very helpful in spotting swirls & other imperfections. Part of my issue in identifying problem spots is that I just finished detailing all three of my cars and they look pretty good. (lol) Today my brother in law is coming over and we're working on his 8 yr old Lexus so I'm hoping that presents a more realistic test of the flashlights capabilities. More tomorrow but on first blush, I like the tool and believe it will help. Is it expensive, yes but compared to other LEDs flashlights with less output, it's reasonably priced. Is it the holly grail solution to spotting swirls & imperfections, probably not but worth having - and btw, it's an awesome flashlight.
tom p.
Active member
Addy, nice to see you here. This looks like a serious flashlight!
Good luck on your job later today. What color is the car you will b working on?
T
Good luck on your job later today. What color is the car you will b working on?
T
Any good recommendations if you DON'T have good ambient lighting? My garage only has the garage door opener, a single incandescent bulb, and 1 bank of fluorescent lights in one corner. It pretty much sucks for trying to see the passenger side or rear of the car.
Before this thread I always thought those halogen worklights were the go-to for everyone and was planning on getting some. Are those preferred if you don't have particularly good garage lighting already?
(putting up more garage lighting isn't really an option, I'm a renter)
Before this thread I always thought those halogen worklights were the go-to for everyone and was planning on getting some. Are those preferred if you don't have particularly good garage lighting already?
(putting up more garage lighting isn't really an option, I'm a renter)
addysdaddy
Member
tom p. said:
Sorry to report the high powered flashlight was a bust for paint evaluation but truly excels at being a flashlight. Just don't think I need to spend $129 for that when I had a different purpose in mind. And so the search continues....
Hey Tom, the "victim" was an 2004 Lexus SC300 - gold over tobacco in what appeared to be good condition at first glance. However, after playing around with the HD Husky Halogens, found plenty of things to correct. So much so had to start the process off with a an aggressive polish (Ultimate Compound), then went to #205 and finished with the DP Sealant I know you like. The final results were excellent but not perfect as I'm sure you've guessed by now. BTW, I used a fresh piece of clay and had to throw it out mid way through the car because of how contaminated it was. OMG, never saw anything like that. On my personal cars I can get several uses out of the same piece of clay - this was one and done but the result was beyond magical. Couple of observations if I may:
- The LC Hydro Tech Pads are far superior then the standard orange, white & red flavors. Throw out your old pads and buy these! Finishes the surface better and retains much less product then the "standard" pads. And btw, cleans better which is no small thing.
- On older cars in far to average condition, you cannot approach the job looking for perfect, if you do you'll be disappointed or worse, damage the paint. Can it done?...probably in the right hands but those hands don't belong to me. But the end result achieved with the DA and quality products is simply light years ahead of anything I was capable of trying to detail by hand. The Lexus looks brand new, especially out of the garage in natural light and the swirls & scratches left behind are only visible if you hunt for them...at night in the garage with bad florescent lighting.
- Really need as good evaluation light especially when doing the initial test area. It took about an hour to figure out a the right plan and most of that time was spent positioning the lights so I could f'n see the paint. We actually started with the #205 and finished the entire hood and while moving the lights' position accidentally found the swirls & scratches we were looking for, so....had to start over with UC & orange pad. My current garage lighting is horrible and anxiously await the move to new diggs.
Accumulator
Well-known member
someidiot said:
For the obvious horizontal surfaces, that incandescent bulb oughta work fairly well. Turn out the fluorescents and see how the hood/etc. look under that single bulb.
Otherwise, I like the incandescent trouble lights..eh, wish I had a link or something...they have a shade that's like an aluminum "cone" and a clamp for a handle (so you can mount it all sorts of ways as well as hand-hold it). I got a pair of high-wattage (~300W) one at my local Lowe's for about $25/each and I still use them even though I have all sorts of other lights.
Halogens are good too, it's just that different lights seem to work better for different things. I didn't retire [one kind of light] when I bought [another kind of light], I just gave myself more options and opportunities. No foolin'...I really do use maybe five different types of lighting to inspect vehicles that I'm really being fussy about; it's the only way I can be sure I'm not missing something. Some paints, especially certain metallics, are just *SO* hard to inspect properly! You think it's perfect and then three days later you see something you can't believe you missed.
911fanatic
New member
someidiot said:
Adding a few more flourescent fixtures would be very inexpensive and they draw nearly zero in the way of power. They would add a lot of light to your garage. Because they are surface mounted, install is dead easy as well.
addysdaddy
Member
Will do Accumulator, going to return the flashlight and pickup a shop light. Can't install new garage lighting as we're trying to sell our current place. Trust me, awesome lighting and a new garage floor will be installed prior to moving in, whenever that happens. Thanks everyone!!
Accumulator
Well-known member
addysdaddy- Note that even the best lights can have quite a learning curve! But for the $ that "trouble light" style is at least worth a try, I sure like mine (ended up getting two of 'em, even though Ialready have all sorts of incandescents in the shop for this).
Try to position it away from the car and to have the shop otherwise as dark as possible (turn out the other lights)...think "street light, or parking lot light, at night".
Try to position it away from the car and to have the shop otherwise as dark as possible (turn out the other lights)...think "street light, or parking lot light, at night".
addysdaddy
Member
Will do Accumulator-hopefully will pick one up this weekend. I've also found with my HD Halogen Work Lights, if I position the lights down onto the paint and stand 180 degrees opposite of that spot, I can see the imperfections much much better. Same goes for outside using the midday sun as the light source. 180 degrees to the light source and with a low point of view seems to be the ideal vantage point that I've found. (so far)
Accumulator
Well-known member
addysdaddy- Yeah, getting the viewing angle right is a big part of the challenge!