Redcar GUY
New member
anyone tried it by hand, doest it work? I dont have a PC but I do have a 9in craftsman buffer with cottom bonnets. Any info?
I plan to detail my FX35 and I have some questions.
- Thread starter Redcar GUY
- Start date
imported_Brad1
New member
Sure, you can use it by hand. It just takes longer.
vettefan67
New member
I myself and other users have used 3M SMR on black cars and noticed horrible hazing left behind. I worked on my technique a little and got little to no hazing, but it takes a good bit of work to do it correctly. I'll let someone else give you advice on the orbital, I don't have any experience there.
Here's my post on SMR by hand . . .
Here's my post on SMR by hand . . .
Chuckmotor
New member
I have no experience with a Craftsman, but I remember reading that someone on Autopia says he uses his 10" Craftsman for everything, and it works fine. I'm sure it would be better to use the Craftsman than it would be by hand, but I recomend getting yourself some foam bonnets because they polish better. I can't find a single use for my two terry bonnets, but they're better than doing it by hand.
KWANG-SEOK
New member
I had no luck using 3M SMR by hand...it left a horrible haze. However, it is fantastic when applied using a PC and a white polishing pad. Of course, YMMV -- my car has a notoriously soft clear coat.
Redcar GUY
New member
Thanks guys
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Schwa72 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I had no luck using 3M SMR by hand...it left a horrible haze. However, it is fantastic when applied using a PC and a white polishing pad. Of course, YMMV -- my car has a notoriously soft clear coat. [/b]</blockquote>
Oh man, i feel better now. I thought it was just me. Tried it by hand - hated the results - gave it away.
I just saved a fortune in therapy costs - I knew this place would pay off :bow
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Schwa72 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I had no luck using 3M SMR by hand...it left a horrible haze. However, it is fantastic when applied using a PC and a white polishing pad. Of course, YMMV -- my car has a notoriously soft clear coat. [/b]</blockquote>
Oh man, i feel better now. I thought it was just me. Tried it by hand - hated the results - gave it away.
I just saved a fortune in therapy costs - I knew this place would pay off :bow
vettefan67
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Homer2 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
Oh man, i feel better now. I thought it was just me. Tried it by hand - hated the results - gave it away.
I just saved a fortune in therapy costs - I knew this place would pay off :bow [/b]</blockquote>Hi Homer2,
What did you use to remove the hazing from 3M SMR?
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Homer2 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
Oh man, i feel better now. I thought it was just me. Tried it by hand - hated the results - gave it away.
I just saved a fortune in therapy costs - I knew this place would pay off :bow [/b]</blockquote>Hi Homer2,
What did you use to remove the hazing from 3M SMR?
imported_doug
New member
I agree - can be done by hand - but your arm would fall off after one panel done properly. Hazing means you didn't work it enough for the diminishing abrasives to break down into finer polishing compound.
HOWEVER - I have used Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0 successfully by hand. I THINK 3M is a bit more abrasive to start, and will go after deeper swirls than the Meguiar's - but the Meguiar's has some really good fillers that seem to make it possible to "hide" nicely with slight application, and still get rid of swirls with more work.
HOWEVER - I have used Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0 successfully by hand. I THINK 3M is a bit more abrasive to start, and will go after deeper swirls than the Meguiar's - but the Meguiar's has some really good fillers that seem to make it possible to "hide" nicely with slight application, and still get rid of swirls with more work.
Chuckmotor
New member
I give Meguiar's #9 2.0 two thumbs :up :up . Here, I'll even give it a third: :xyxthumbs . It is much easier than SMR to use, in my opinion, ESPECIALLY by hand. It's also available at Pep Boy's for under $10.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
Hi Homer2,
What did you use to remove the hazing from 3M SMR? [/b]</blockquote>
that was way back last winter, but i think i just washed with Blue dawn, . . . . then Zainoed the crap out of it since. I thought if there was still some of the haze (which i think is the oils) then I'd blind anyone looking at the car, and they wouldnt see it.
and as for which model arm . . . . well, without crossing any borders, my love life dropped off for a few days
:sosad
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>
Hi Homer2,
What did you use to remove the hazing from 3M SMR? [/b]</blockquote>
that was way back last winter, but i think i just washed with Blue dawn, . . . . then Zainoed the crap out of it since. I thought if there was still some of the haze (which i think is the oils) then I'd blind anyone looking at the car, and they wouldnt see it.
and as for which model arm . . . . well, without crossing any borders, my love life dropped off for a few days
:sosadI used half a bottle of 3M SMR for dark colors over a several week perioid just on the hood and by hand. No luck at all in removing swirls. I then bought an orbital buffer and with two coats it took off maybe 70% of swirls and helped some deeper scratches. By the way, the SMR is a light abrasive compound (aluminum oxide) compared to other levels of compounds. I then went higher using 3M light cut and the buffer to deal with the deeper scratches. This removed all but a few of the deepest scratches which I left alone because I'm not willing to go to a medium cut compound on my new car.
After the light cut, I then used the SMR again and then the 3M IHG (two coats) with buffer. This left a pristine surface ready for waxing. I'm now convinced a buffer is safe and is the only way to effectively remove swirls. The orbital buffer takes awhile to do its thing, but this provides a safety margin for not overdoing it. Remember to start with the lowest abrasive compound and work up, then work back down with the compounds to take out any residual swirls caused by the move abrasive products.
After the light cut, I then used the SMR again and then the 3M IHG (two coats) with buffer. This left a pristine surface ready for waxing. I'm now convinced a buffer is safe and is the only way to effectively remove swirls. The orbital buffer takes awhile to do its thing, but this provides a safety margin for not overdoing it. Remember to start with the lowest abrasive compound and work up, then work back down with the compounds to take out any residual swirls caused by the move abrasive products.
imported_Intermezzo
New member
MHaber, great post. Thanks for the information.
So, for us folks who like to apply everything by hand, then 3M may not be the best solution? Honestly, I don't have the time, energy, or money to spend applying 50 coats of 3M for decent results. Maybe Meguiar's #9 2.0, Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner, or Fine Cut Cleaner is a better alternative for hand use?
charliebauer24
New member
Hi to everyone!
okay i've been lurking in this board for quite sometime now, trying to search for some answers so I don't have to bother you with newbie questions but I guess everyone has different situation.
this might be a long post and i apologize.
so the subject vehicle is my daily driver, 2010 Infiniti FX35 (Platinum Graphite). It is said that the paint has a cross linked clear coat, assume this is a hard clear coat?! or am i wrong?
as for paint condition:
- i can see orange peel but i don't plan to correct that.
- no major scratch or swirls.
- I can see about 5 very small paint defect (maybe manufacturer's); if i touch it i don't feel any bump, it is smooth.
- I can see some small hard water spots in the hood and top, these spots can only be seen at an angle (perpendicular to light source).
- I'll probably see more small defects under halogen lamp but i'm sure there is no major ones.
- I have only detailed the FX by hand.
What I am currently doing
when I got the FX I was using the old Meguiars NXT wax, a left over from my previous vehicle.
about 3 months ago I switched to Zaino products. I see big improvement in shine (probably because of layering?), but durability wise love it. I don't get a lot dust and paint is still smooth after 3 months.
When I got my Zaino about 3 months ago, here's what I did:
Dawn
Clay with z-18 (did not remove hard water spots, i gave up)
Z7, Wipe/Blower, Z-AIO (did not fix the paint defect)
Z6, Z5, Z6, Z-CS
Z8 the next day.
Then on the next week
Z7, Wipe/Blower, Z5, Z6, Z-CS
Z8 the next day.
I also used Z-AIO for glass and wheels.
My Plan
I want to buy a PC 7424XP, my hand can still do it but I want to try doing it by machine. I also plan to get Meguiars 105 and Menzerna PO85RD.
My goal is to remove the water spots and fix any defects that I am not seeing by using Megs 105 (with Orange CCS 6.5).
Then finish it with PO85RD (with White or Grey CCS 6.5).
An then Proceed with Z-AIO, Z5, Z6 and Z-CS. I am also planning to get a Z-2 and ZFX so I don't have to wait longer when layering.
My Questions
Do I have to strip the current Zaino application? If so, will a Dawn wash do it? Or I don't have to remove it and can just wash with Z-7, dry, then use Megs 105?
Do I really need the Meguiars 105 if I only plan to do light cutting with orange pad? Or can I use Po85RD with yellow pad then finish with Po85RD with white pad? Or I don't make any sense?!
Do I need to do IPA wipedown after Megs 105?
Do I need to do IPA wipedown after PO85RD even if I plan to do Z-AIO next?
If I need to do IPA wipedown, is there an alternative to that?
Is my plan okay? does it make sense? if not, I would really appreciate any input... Any alternatives that you would suggest?
thank you, i really appreciate it.
here's my FX... it's raining and getting cold here in Atlanta.
okay i've been lurking in this board for quite sometime now, trying to search for some answers so I don't have to bother you with newbie questions but I guess everyone has different situation.
this might be a long post and i apologize.
so the subject vehicle is my daily driver, 2010 Infiniti FX35 (Platinum Graphite). It is said that the paint has a cross linked clear coat, assume this is a hard clear coat?! or am i wrong?
as for paint condition:
- i can see orange peel but i don't plan to correct that.
- no major scratch or swirls.
- I can see about 5 very small paint defect (maybe manufacturer's); if i touch it i don't feel any bump, it is smooth.
- I can see some small hard water spots in the hood and top, these spots can only be seen at an angle (perpendicular to light source).
- I'll probably see more small defects under halogen lamp but i'm sure there is no major ones.
- I have only detailed the FX by hand.
What I am currently doing
when I got the FX I was using the old Meguiars NXT wax, a left over from my previous vehicle.
about 3 months ago I switched to Zaino products. I see big improvement in shine (probably because of layering?), but durability wise love it. I don't get a lot dust and paint is still smooth after 3 months.
When I got my Zaino about 3 months ago, here's what I did:
Dawn
Clay with z-18 (did not remove hard water spots, i gave up)
Z7, Wipe/Blower, Z-AIO (did not fix the paint defect)
Z6, Z5, Z6, Z-CS
Z8 the next day.
Then on the next week
Z7, Wipe/Blower, Z5, Z6, Z-CS
Z8 the next day.
I also used Z-AIO for glass and wheels.
My Plan
I want to buy a PC 7424XP, my hand can still do it but I want to try doing it by machine. I also plan to get Meguiars 105 and Menzerna PO85RD.
My goal is to remove the water spots and fix any defects that I am not seeing by using Megs 105 (with Orange CCS 6.5).
Then finish it with PO85RD (with White or Grey CCS 6.5).
An then Proceed with Z-AIO, Z5, Z6 and Z-CS. I am also planning to get a Z-2 and ZFX so I don't have to wait longer when layering.
My Questions
Do I have to strip the current Zaino application? If so, will a Dawn wash do it? Or I don't have to remove it and can just wash with Z-7, dry, then use Megs 105?
Do I really need the Meguiars 105 if I only plan to do light cutting with orange pad? Or can I use Po85RD with yellow pad then finish with Po85RD with white pad? Or I don't make any sense?!
Do I need to do IPA wipedown after Megs 105?
Do I need to do IPA wipedown after PO85RD even if I plan to do Z-AIO next?
If I need to do IPA wipedown, is there an alternative to that?
Is my plan okay? does it make sense? if not, I would really appreciate any input... Any alternatives that you would suggest?
thank you, i really appreciate it.
here's my FX... it's raining and getting cold here in Atlanta.
Harleyguy
New member
Welcome to the forums.
As far as correction you always want to start with the least aggresive combo of products.Start with Megs 205 with a white pad and see if that corrects what you are trying to remove.
If the 205 and white doesn't help move onto a orange pad .Always do a test spot and yes i would do an IPA wipedown after every panel you do .This will remove all the oils left behind and give you a true finish.
The PCXP should be fine do some reading about the KBM method that should help some also.I'm not 100% sure but you clear coat might be the self healing clear coat i believe there is a sticker on the door edge or the b pillar post if it does have that type of clear coat .Everything you listed looks like a plan and i'm sure others will chime in and add parts that i missed .
As far as correction you always want to start with the least aggresive combo of products.Start with Megs 205 with a white pad and see if that corrects what you are trying to remove.
If the 205 and white doesn't help move onto a orange pad .Always do a test spot and yes i would do an IPA wipedown after every panel you do .This will remove all the oils left behind and give you a true finish.
The PCXP should be fine do some reading about the KBM method that should help some also.I'm not 100% sure but you clear coat might be the self healing clear coat i believe there is a sticker on the door edge or the b pillar post if it does have that type of clear coat .Everything you listed looks like a plan and i'm sure others will chime in and add parts that i missed .
Attachments
charliebauer24
New member
thanks!
yeah i've had some reading with the KBM method, and I think that would really help.
i believe the self healing stopped in 2008 models and will come back on 2011. Some car magazine website says it's scratch resistant paint.
i tried to find the sticker for the paint but i cannot find it, not in hood or door jamb i'll try to look at it again.
if i go with 205, i could still finish with 85RD?
okay so i have to IPA wipedown after every panel/section? and not after doing the whole vehicle?
Attachments
imported_broker99
New member
I agree with Harleyguy. I have been able to get some decent correction with 205. Plus with the 205 I dont think you would need to follow it up with PO85RD on that color. 205 will do a great job on it own. But try it out. IPA would be a good idea before polishing. If you use 205 or 105 you should not need to do a IPA wipe down after polishing.
charliebauer24
New member
what about the existing zaino application i have in the vehicle. do i have to remove it? with what?
or i can just do a regular car wash and then 205 or 105?
thanks!