imported_advs1
New member
Scottwax said:
thanks scott. i'm going to try and find some tomorrow and give it a go
hologram/swirl reappearing
- Thread starter imported_advs1
- Start date
thanks scott. i'm going to try and find some tomorrow and give it a go
SuperBee364
New member
advs1 said:
advs1, you might not find it under the Ultrafina name. According to Rydawg, 3M has changed the name to Ultrafine Polish. I don't know if the part number has changed or not.
imported_advs1
New member
SuperBee364 said:
thanks for the heads up
Junebug
JAFO
May I point out that, if you're using a rotary to finish then everything Todd, Scott and David posted is very true. But, I have found that using a PC, even with two steps - compound/heavy polish then final polish - I don't have buffer trails/halograms, granted, it takes me a LOT longer to do the same amount of work. Reason I brought this up? Well, I seem to recall that at one time, correct with a rotary, finish with a PC was the favor of the month and for us less experienced - 1Z IP with PFW on a rotary, followed by FFII on a PC (my basic technique) works pretty good.
Sometimes it's hard to get the same results as the senior guys here, and talking from experience (never did get M105 to play nice) - it's nice to have a back-up plan that will work.
Sometimes it's hard to get the same results as the senior guys here, and talking from experience (never did get M105 to play nice) - it's nice to have a back-up plan that will work.
imported_advs1
New member
i agree junebug, but i bought a rotary to make my life easier and get better at my profession. i think the rotary is another tool in an arsenal that we cam use. i have a pc, flex and hitachi, i just want to finish a car hologram free with the rotary. even if later i use my flex as the last step on a car. i guess i want as many options as i can have
imported_advs1
New member
ok one last tid bit i need clarification on. i ran my hitachi at only 600rpm, would that cause holograms? should i bump it up a bit?
SuperBee364
New member
JuneBug, give UF a try with a no bite pad on the rotary. You'll get a *much* better finish that you'd get with a PC, and in much less time. The pros have been telling us about this combo in earnest for a good reason: it is truly awesome.
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
advs1 said:
This is an interesting question, and one that I have thought about for a very long time. How much does RPM contribute to the hologramming and marring from the polishing prococess?
Increasing the RPM increases the rate of work with out a doubt and if the RPM's are too high/low for the polish the abrasive meduim in the polish may not break down evenly or even completey. However, I would think pressure is more likely to create hologramming and pad marring then RPM for this reason...
If the pad/polish combination are broken down evenly and a non mechanical pad is used with light pressure, then I doubt the rate at which this non mechanical pad is spinning should not effect the damage being done to the paint.
When Mike Phillips was asked wether to wax in straight lines or circles, he made a great point. If the products you are using cannot induce marring, then it doesn't matter. For the same principle, if you where applying wax by hand, it wouldn't matter so much as how fast you rubbed the wax on as much as how much pressure was used.
Junebug
JAFO
Good point Todd, and that goes right along with the advice Bee gave too, BTW, I have used Ultrafina with the 3M blue pads via a Dewalt rotary. Yes, it is an extremely good combo. But my point was more to the guys and gals that haven't stepped up to a rotary yet.
Personally, I "can" do rotary work, I just don't have that confidence that I have with the PC, I know it's all in my head and I'm working on that too. Other stress in my life has given me a little friend, a nice stomach ulcer, but with some understanding bosses and Nexium, I'm doing a lot better. Getting close to 50 - sure ain't no walk on the beach, but, I've learned to take things slow and REMAIN CALM, it helps!
Another thing is being able to read and post on Autopia, everybody needs an outlet, a place to go and hang out with friends and shoot the breeze. Thanks ya'll!
Personally, I "can" do rotary work, I just don't have that confidence that I have with the PC, I know it's all in my head and I'm working on that too. Other stress in my life has given me a little friend, a nice stomach ulcer, but with some understanding bosses and Nexium, I'm doing a lot better. Getting close to 50 - sure ain't no walk on the beach, but, I've learned to take things slow and REMAIN CALM, it helps!
Another thing is being able to read and post on Autopia, everybody needs an outlet, a place to go and hang out with friends and shoot the breeze. Thanks ya'll!
Accumulator
Well-known member
OK..all this talk of the PrepSol-resistant concealing, and the months-later-reappearance of holograms has me mighty leery of the supposedly Accumulator-proof Ultrafina :think: My finishing-by-Cyclo *is* Accumulator-proof, and fortunately it works fine on the paints I have. My experience with the Yukon was enough of that for one lifetime.
Now if somebody figures out a way to undo the Ultrafina's concealing for a bet-your-life inspection, well, OK, then I'll reconsider this whole thing.
-AND-
Correct, at least in my situation with the Denali XL. The stuff that gradually appeared after months (during which time it was not washed, wasn't even driven more than a few times) was *absolutely* rotary-induced holograms of varying severity. I could watch them become increasingly apparent on a day-by-day basis; the exact same area would go from "hey, is that a really light hologram?" to "woah, look at the hologram! That might even be from the twisted wool!"
Now if somebody figures out a way to undo the Ultrafina's concealing for a bet-your-life inspection, well, OK, then I'll reconsider this whole thing.
Dave1 said:
-AND-
TH0001 said:
Correct, at least in my situation with the Denali XL. The stuff that gradually appeared after months (during which time it was not washed, wasn't even driven more than a few times) was *absolutely* rotary-induced holograms of varying severity. I could watch them become increasingly apparent on a day-by-day basis; the exact same area would go from "hey, is that a really light hologram?" to "woah, look at the hologram! That might even be from the twisted wool!"
imported_Denzil
New member
SuperBee364 said:
I think I've asked you this before already Supe but I'm drawing a blank right now. What non-mechanical pads have you used or suggest with UF? I'm interested in hearing what you have to say so I can try finishing with a rotary myself. :dance
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Denzil said:
Denzil, I hope you don't mind me fielding this one.
Non Mechanical Pads:
Lake Country
Blue
Red
Edge
White 100ppi
Meguiars
Tan Finishing Pad
3M
Ultra Fina Blue
Pads with slight mechanical action
Lake Country
Gray
Meguiars
So1o Finishing Pad
3M
Finishing Black
I should also note that the slightly mechanical pads (3M/Meguiars/Lake Country) all use the same foam. Lake Country's version has an additive that "blows up" the foam slightly.
Holden_C04
New member
...Pads that should not be used for burnishing paint:
Lake Country
White CCS 6.5"
Don't ask me how I know. :lol
Lake Country
White CCS 6.5"
Don't ask me how I know. :lol
imported_Denzil
New member
TH0001 said:
I don't mind at all Todd! Thanks for listing that out for me. :bigups
I'm guessing Edge doesn't have a pad with slight mechanical action then? Either that or I'm assuming that the blue Edge pad may be their slight mechanical pad.
I was also looking at their website and the only white pad I see displayed is 80ppi. Where might I find the 100ppi white pad?
Thanks again for the help Todd.
Todd@RUPES
Just a regular guy
Denzil said:I don't mind at all Todd! Thanks for listing that out for me. :bigups
I'm guessing Edge doesn't have a pad with slight mechanical action then? Either that or I'm assuming that the blue Edge pad may be their slight mechanical pad.
I was also looking at their website and the only white pad I see displayed is 80ppi. Where might I find the 100ppi white pad?
Thanks again for the help Todd.
To be honest I am not familar enough with Edge's line to give a fair anwser. I'm sure Aaron could help you out though!
Thomas Dekany
New member
jw said:
There is nothing wrong with correcting using the rotary and finishing with the pc.
imported_Denzil
New member
I'm sure it's possible, it just takes practice.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
1 more thing to kind in mnd....
Even if you use the most "super-ultra-softest-non-mechanical-extreme-final-finishing" foam pad and you don't break *certain* finishing polishes down properly, you could have buffer trails come back(or be seen) in extreme cases on soft clears. Again back to the filling arguement....
Even if you use the most "super-ultra-softest-non-mechanical-extreme-final-finishing" foam pad and you don't break *certain* finishing polishes down properly, you could have buffer trails come back(or be seen) in extreme cases on soft clears. Again back to the filling arguement....