Harbor Freight 6" DA

You will need to remove the spindle assembly and shroud to get at those four screws; looking at the assembly diagram in the manual may help you to see how it has to come apart:



Polisher_Diagram.jpeg
 
OMG, Charlie, do you mean to tell me that all those printed papers that come with a tool or product are not just filler for the box????

(sorry, couldn't resist-I have a large file drawer that every manual, etc are put in and kept for as long as I own the tool)
 
Thanks for the help, It looks like if I remove #41 the eccentric wheel I will be able to reach the shroud screws. How do I get the eccentric wheel assembly out.My apologies for not knowing, also I don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks for your troubles.

Bruce
 
C. Charles Hahn said:
Take the head off and re-pack it with more and better grease... problem solved. It will make the machine run cooler, too. I wasn't able to tear into the gear drive of my HD polisher, but the HF version of the same came apart with no trouble at all.



i was going to return it but i guess that's how they all are being new and all or until it gets broken in. thanks for the info charlie (i'll have to get some grease), you're always a good source of info and one person who makes autopia.org the place that it is today...
 
danponjican said:
My "student" was running it at speed 4.



thanks for the reply dan. for someone who doesn't do much correction and only needs a DA a few times a year, this DA ($50 with coupon) makes perfect sense for someone who doesn't want to spend over $100+...
 
bbak said:
Thanks for the help, It looks like if I remove #41 the eccentric wheel I will be able to reach the shroud screws. How do I get the eccentric wheel assembly out.My apologies for not knowing, also I don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks for your troubles.

Bruce



You'll have to pull the counterweight off, then pull the bearing/spindle assembly, remove the bolt for the eccentric wheel and pull that off. From there you can pull the shroud and the screws holding the gear case together can come out. In other words, start taking off parts in the order you can access them until there aren't any more parts to take off. As long as you pay attention to the order it comes apart, it'll go back together without a problem.



BigAl3 said:
i was going to return it but i guess that's how they all are being new and all or until it gets broken in. thanks for the info charlie (i'll have to get some grease), you're always a good source of info and one person who makes autopia.org the place that it is today...



Thanks Al. Let us know what you think after greasing it.
 
My gears did not even have contact with grease. I could see this being an issue till warmed up by then a little late.



4emusuzy.jpg


vu5yvure.jpg




Picked one up doing this before fire up.

Thanks Charlie!
 
Haven't gotten mine yet, but will soon.

Thanks to Charles and John for the very important "heads up" on the situation.

As soon as I do pick up mine, it will come apart and good lube added to the gear drive.

Thanks again!
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Haven't gotten mine yet, but will soon.

Thanks to Charles and John for the very important "heads up" on the situation.

As soon as I do pick up mine, it will come apart and good lube added to the gear drive.

Thanks again!



You'll also want to run it briefly to "burp" it. I also added a 1/4 removable plug.

u2y9y4u6.jpg


qy3a2ysy.jpg
 
Charles,

Thanks for the help, and the time you have taken to provide instructions. I can't get get the bearing/spindle assembly to remove. I don't see any screws to remove it. What do I need to do to remove it?

Thanks again
 
bbak said:
Charles,

Thanks for the help, and the time you have taken to provide instructions. I can't get get the bearing/spindle assembly to remove. I don't see any screws to remove it. What do I need to do to remove it?

Thanks again



After you've removed the counterweight, you may need some additional leverage to get the bearing/spindle assembly to come out... either re-install the backing plate and use it to lift the bearing assembly out, or use a long 5/16" bolt inserted into the spindle and lift with a pair of pliers.
 
Well now that's the problem, I tried with the backing plate and also with a 5/16 bolt and it just will not budge. Thanks for the follow up.



Bruce
 
bbak said:
Well now that's the problem, I tried with the backing plate and also with a 5/16 bolt and it just will not budge. Thanks for the follow up.



Bruce



Bruce, on my unit, the bearing/spindle is not pulled from the eccentric wheel. It all comes out as one assembly. After removing the counter weight, I inserted the tool that came with the unit (an Allen wrench with a rounded end) into the hole in the top of the head. This stops the ring gear from being able to turn. The I used a needle-nose vice grip to turn the eccentric wheel off of the shaft that is attached to the ring gear. Then the shroud can be removed an the head split open and greased.

Hopefully this makes sense.
 
Does it have regular threads so turning the eccentric wheel to the left will loosen it?
Matt Cardoni said:
Bruce, on my unit, the bearing/spindle is not pulled from the eccentric wheel. It all comes out as one assembly. After removing the counter weight, I inserted the tool that came with the unit (an Allen wrench with a rounded end) into the hole in the top of the head. This stops the ring gear from being able to turn. The I used a needle-nose vice grip to turn the eccentric wheel off of the shaft that is attached to the ring gear. Then the shroud can be removed an the head split open and greased.

Hopefully this makes sense.
 
bbak said:
Does it have regular threads so turning the eccentric wheel to the left will loosen it?



Yes, mine was on pretty tight. I was concerned I wasn't doing the right thing at first but it then broke free and the rest was cake.
 
Matt Cardoni said:
Bruce, on my unit, the bearing/spindle is not pulled from the eccentric wheel. It all comes out as one assembly. After removing the counter weight, I inserted the tool that came with the unit (an Allen wrench with a rounded end) into the hole in the top of the head. This stops the ring gear from being able to turn. The I used a needle-nose vice grip to turn the eccentric wheel off of the shaft that is attached to the ring gear. Then the shroud can be removed an the head split open and greased.

Hopefully this makes sense.



Different than the way I did it, but that's great to know. Thanks for the tip Matt!
 
I want to Thank Charles and Matt for helping me out. I finally was successful, mine came apart the same way Matt"s did.

Now, how much grease is supposed to be in there. Looking at the pictures John posted about running and burping, it appears to be packed full of grease. Is this so?



Bruce
 
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