Finer than 3000 grit?

MorBid said:
It does help if we are all on the same page though :)
Click to expand...

You are absolutely correct. I guess I am getting a dose of my own medicine because it drives me nuts when I can't understand what people are trying to ask me. That should teach me to relax and change approach.
 
MorBid said:
As I'm sure you know there is no such thing as a stupid question.
Click to expand...

Can you then please provide your thoughts on following questions:



... I would need to know grit equivalent of pure polish with such pad, if there is any at all. And if there is none at all I wonder what would be in between lightest compound and pure polish with gentlest pad, does it exist in liquid form (which I assume would make it easier to use than wet sanding), and if it doesn't exist in liquid form can I wet sand after I have been compounding with compund -> lighter compound -> lightest compund.​



Thank you! Help you all have been showing is truly appreciated!
 
David Fermani said:
No - 2 different(but similar) results. Clay pulls debri out of the pores of the finish where 4000 grit paper flattens them along with the finish. Most of the time I do both. I 'll clay 1st and then sand. This also insures much less marring from catching microscopic debri in the paper. Sometimes I'm lazy and just sand though.
Click to expand...

Got it! Makes absolute sense, especially microscopic debri part. With that in mind, if one is bent on overdoing it, would using ultra fine clay after wet sending and before pure polish pull microscopic debri from sanding out so it doesn't get trapped and therefore would make sense or it would put bigger than 4000 grit right back in and therefore wouldn't make sense?
 
MorBid said:
Polishes and compounds cannot be compared to sanding with abrasives as they each have their own functionality. The former is known as "Chemical" abrasion" while the other "mechanical"



In fact, the more I think about it (and it took some thinking) your question is more about stepping up through different levels of polishes (with each working at a removing a specific grit of scratch) without even using any mechanical abrasion. This in hopes of producing this uber mirror like shine. Is that correct?



But every polish and compound has as it's basis the target of removing a certain defects introduced into the finish by mechanical abrasion.
Click to expand...

Yes, my question is about stepping through different levels of "abrasive's granularity". I am coining this term as I am not talking scratches exclusively and also I don't want to again mislead people into thinking I am talking "papers" either just because it is paint leveling if I understand correctly.



What I am interested in is product's capability to work ("abrade"?) on certain scale level first and foremost.



Second, my looking for one that comes in liquid form was driven with thought that so fine "abrasive" might be more consistent in liquid form than it would be in "paper" form.



Third, I was also thinking liquid form might allow me use of PC further making application more consistent.



Fourth, I didn't realize one can start with liquid, then wet sand with 4000+ and then go back to polish in liquid form.
 
David, Thanks for the link to Micro Finishes! I ordered some abrasives from them. The make some really neat "swab" type sandpaper that is perfect for ding repair.
 
ZoranC said:
… Mike has great class that kicks off weekend detailers in us in good direction but I feel need to learn more about intricacies of paint and materials…
Click to expand...
You need to come down to a nighttime session. Most people who attend the weekend classes are starting from scratch. There’s a lot of basic stuff to go over in a short time so Mike doesn’t get a chance to go into the finer aspects.



The night sessions are freeform and the activities depend on the crowd. If there are mostly noobies things might stay pretty basic but last night it was all about sanding, cutting and buffing.





David Fermani said:
Do you ever notice that alot of seasoned sanders fade away from using blocks when sanding? They know how to eliminate finger marks after doing it day in and day out. I walk into body shops all the time and see guys 'hand' sanding. For me, I still use a block for 1500 and 2000 grit.
Click to expand...
I can’t say that I’ve known all that many sanders. But I can say that the best ones I know insist on using blocks.



I also know that personally, with my level of skill, I couldn’t possibly do anywhere near as good a job without the blocks as I can do with them. (But I don’t have a huge amount of practice.)





PC.
 
the other pc said:
You need to come down to a nighttime session. ... last night it was all about sanding, cutting and buffing.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought it would be but with me working in Century City and often late hours it is next to impossible :(
 
I guess everyone thought you had gotten the answer you were looking for. I'm outta idea's along the lines your talking of.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top