ca.detailchick
New member
Thanks Todd. I would never have done it if you hadnt nagged,I mean encouraged me so many times about doing a reveiw.Excellent review! :rockon:rockon:rockon:rockon

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
Thanks Todd. I would never have done it if you hadnt nagged,I mean encouraged me so many times about doing a reveiw.Excellent review! :rockon:rockon:rockon:rockon
Thats great Steve!DC, i tried out my fine grade opti eraser on my 2000 ford f150 today and didn't have any problems.
i did notice that if i didn't use enough lube, it did feel grabby. i used DP rinseless wash and gloss 2oz to 32 oz h2o as a clay lube. contamination was light but it seemed to work well. who knows.![]()
I dont know if cutting in half would be ideal for everyone. I would think the bigger your hands are then the more dificult it would be grasp it and may be better to leave it alone.I wouldnt cut it unless you dont like it and feels too grabby .Steve likes his just the way it is.thanks dc for the review, i just got my fine opti eraser but wont be trying it out until the spring. that cutting it in half idea may be a good one for everyone.
One thing that may help is for me to tell you guys what we were trying to do when we brought Opti Eraser into development. I personally never clay unless I plan to polish simply because I know I will be adding some fine scratches. But, all my waxes and sealants naturally bond better, look better, and last longer if the paint is decontaminated. The chemical decon alternative is good, but expensive and they always work better if you remove the above surface (bulk) of the bonded contaminant first. S the challenge was to create a product that would remove above surface contaminant while inducing little-no marring or it's own. Opti Eraser does this very well when used properly.
It's not a direct exchange for clay, so there is some adjustment to the technique necessary. Proper lube and back/forth movement are the same, but because of the foam interface and perfectly flat surface you'll need a couple of adjustments.
First, there's very little need for downward pressure so you should grip the Opti Eraser on the sides with your thumb and fingertips without pressing down with your palm. You can also squeeze it slightly to give the working surface a slight convex shape that will lessen drag on long flat panels.
Second, the foam interface and the nature of the polymer face (while allowing mar free decontamination) also reduces the tactile sensitivity when compared to actual clay. Simply wear some nitrile gloves so you can check you progress as you go. It is very similar to the feedback from the baggy test and is more accurate than the feedback from clay.
I still use clay on the brutal stuff, but Opti Eraser is my every day pre wax prep tool. I can No Rinse a panel, Opti Erase it, and dry it in a fraction of the time of claying and there's no residue like I get from clay sometimes...which means I can go straight to wax or sealing with no further cleaning or polishing. My customers get a better looking finish with very little effort on my part. It may have a place in your process and it may not...but, if you need mar free decon you have nothing to loose with the satisfaction guarantee.
Maybe different lubes make a difference but I used a spray wax that has the most lubricity out of several that I own.Hey Girl, thank you for the review and the photos! :yourrock
I've read a lot of comments and reviews for several of these new products but the jury's still out. I have 5 or 6 new clay bars and to tell you the truth I find them very easy to use and when on sale very economical.
You mentioned that they felt grabby or sticky, would a different type of lubricant help with a little more lubrication?
DC have you tried this since this review? I'd like to get your thoughts on this product after trying it again.