Fine grade OPTI-ERASER reveiw by detailchick

Thank you for an honest evaluation from your perspective and experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bunky
Call it a foam pad dryer and mark up 500%!

I thought of that too :D but I could never do that to my fellow detailers!

You'll never get a job at Autogeek! :D
 
DC, i tried out my fine grade opti eraser on my 2000 ford f150 today and didn't have any problems.
i did notice that if i didn't use enough lube, it did feel grabby. i used DP rinseless wash and gloss 2oz to 32 oz h2o as a clay lube. contamination was light but it seemed to work well. who knows. :)
 
thanks dc for the review, i just got my fine opti eraser but wont be trying it out until the spring. that cutting it in half idea may be a good one for everyone.
 
DC, i tried out my fine grade opti eraser on my 2000 ford f150 today and didn't have any problems.
i did notice that if i didn't use enough lube, it did feel grabby. i used DP rinseless wash and gloss 2oz to 32 oz h2o as a clay lube. contamination was light but it seemed to work well. who knows. :)
Thats great Steve!

I tried a couple different lubricants and plenty of it .Maybe you have discovered the lube that works best with it!

Im glad it worked out well for you!:bigups
 
thanks dc for the review, i just got my fine opti eraser but wont be trying it out until the spring. that cutting it in half idea may be a good one for everyone.
I dont know if cutting in half would be ideal for everyone. I would think the bigger your hands are then the more dificult it would be grasp it and may be better to leave it alone.I wouldnt cut it unless you dont like it and feels too grabby .Steve likes his just the way it is.
 
I apologize for the redundant posting, but I though some specific usage directions may help those interested in Opti Eraser:

One thing that may help is for me to tell you guys what we were trying to do when we brought Opti Eraser into development. I personally never clay unless I plan to polish simply because I know I will be adding some fine scratches. But, all my waxes and sealants naturally bond better, look better, and last longer if the paint is decontaminated. The chemical decon alternative is good, but expensive and they always work better if you remove the above surface (bulk) of the bonded contaminant first. S the challenge was to create a product that would remove above surface contaminant while inducing little-no marring or it's own. Opti Eraser does this very well when used properly.

It's not a direct exchange for clay, so there is some adjustment to the technique necessary. Proper lube and back/forth movement are the same, but because of the foam interface and perfectly flat surface you'll need a couple of adjustments.

First, there's very little need for downward pressure so you should grip the Opti Eraser on the sides with your thumb and fingertips without pressing down with your palm. You can also squeeze it slightly to give the working surface a slight convex shape that will lessen drag on long flat panels.

Second, the foam interface and the nature of the polymer face (while allowing mar free decontamination) also reduces the tactile sensitivity when compared to actual clay. Simply wear some nitrile gloves so you can check you progress as you go. It is very similar to the feedback from the baggy test and is more accurate than the feedback from clay.​

I still use clay on the brutal stuff, but Opti Eraser is my every day pre wax prep tool. I can No Rinse a panel, Opti Erase it, and dry it in a fraction of the time of claying and there's no residue like I get from clay sometimes...which means I can go straight to wax or sealing with no further cleaning or polishing. My customers get a better looking finish with very little effort on my part. It may have a place in your process and it may not...but, if you need mar free decon you have nothing to loose with the satisfaction guarantee.
 
Hey Girl, thank you for the review and the photos! :yourrock

I've read a lot of comments and reviews for several of these new products but the jury's still out. I have 5 or 6 new clay bars and to tell you the truth I find them very easy to use and when on sale very economical.

You mentioned that they felt grabby or sticky, would a different type of lubricant help with a little more lubrication?
 
Hey Girl, thank you for the review and the photos! :yourrock

I've read a lot of comments and reviews for several of these new products but the jury's still out. I have 5 or 6 new clay bars and to tell you the truth I find them very easy to use and when on sale very economical.

You mentioned that they felt grabby or sticky, would a different type of lubricant help with a little more lubrication?
Maybe different lubes make a difference but I used a spray wax that has the most lubricity out of several that I own.

Ive already resolved the problem for myself but after reading some more reveiws the grabbiness doesnt seem to bother some people and the way you hold it (read post above from Chris)can make a difference too.

Once you try these alternatives you may never want to go back to clay Bobby!
 
DC have you tried this since this review? I'd like to get your thoughts on this product after trying it again.
 
DC have you tried this since this review? I'd like to get your thoughts on this product after trying it again.

Yes I have,on at least 10 cars with soft paint.

(Usually I go with the magna sponge, unless it marrs I go for the finegrade optimum)

Ive only had the fine grade OPTI-ERASER marr once on an extreemly soft new BMW dark paint and had to resort to claybar.I would call that an exception .It does fine on other soft paints like Toyota......

I like it even more the more I use it .The only trade off is it wont get off extreemly bad or even sometimes moderate fall out but thats what you would expect of "fine grade "claybar or alternatives.

Claybars are almost oldschool to me now!:inspector:
 
Sheer genius gal. Thanks for sharing it with the hairy legged boys here. We learned from you today and we're grateful.
 
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