I strongly recommend the spur, it will save you a lot of money because you won't have to have as many pads at hand and it will extend the life of the pad. However, it will increase your time spent working on the car a bit (but not significantly IMO) since you have to stop to spur, but it does not take too long. In addition, if the car was not clayed before polish (which I recommend be done), the pads will get really dirty and you will end up using more pads even if you spur. I once did a car that was so filthy, but the owner did not want me to clay it and I ended up going through several pads. Also, using too much polish can result caking and having to use many pads.
Finally Tested the Flex
- Thread starter RAG
- Start date
That's certainly a nice turnaround, but I don't want beginners to be misled - nobody's going to polish a hammered dark car into perfection in a "normal" one step process - you're going to have to spend a substantial amount of time polishing (if they could, they would easily command $125/hour polishing cars for a living, which doesn't happen). I've talked to a lot of beginners that were frustrated because they've seen pics of people who made it seem like they turned a torn up car into perfection in no time and they weren't able to do this...of course I told them it takes time - a lot of time. I usually tell people I can just about get all the scractches out of their car in 1 polishing step....but there's going to be a lot of halograms remained because I'm going to use wool (or there will be micro-marring haze via DA).
And pictures can be deceiving - micro-marring and many scratches can easily not be seen in pictures...I've taken pictures in the sun and under lights midway through my detailing process (when there were still plenty of defect remaining) and had the paint "look" perfect in the picture.
And pictures can be deceiving - micro-marring and many scratches can easily not be seen in pictures...I've taken pictures in the sun and under lights midway through my detailing process (when there were still plenty of defect remaining) and had the paint "look" perfect in the picture.
DJ_JonnyV said:I'm not trying to stir the pot, but it is possible to get a 1 step polish removing majority of defects with the Flex 3401 as shown in the below before and after. This was done with an orange Erasure pad, IP, and running the 3401 on a speed 6.
Before:
After:
I've posted these shots before on my original Flex review thread, but thought I'd dig them up again for some of the newer Flex owners and those considering purchasing one. both shots were full sun shots. As you can see the paint on this '04 Acura MDX was destroyed. It was pretty much like that all over the car. The after pic was taken after correction and application of Menzerna FMJ. Also, it should be noted that it was about 2 days after I detailed it, so there is some dust and light dirt on it, but I think you get the idea. BTW, here is the finished product:
Granted, I believe that Acura paint is probably more on the softer side, but this is still a testament to what the 3401 can do. Just thought I'd throw my $.02.
jetset4me
New member
Is Club Flex a cult? Let me reply by saying that our next meeting is in Jonestown.:geez
so can anyone give me a realistic opinion on the Flex for hard Audi paint? I have a UDM and it will correct minor marks, given time and some Menz 3.02. The car is 95% swirl free right now, having been VERY well machined by a pro friend of mine at purchase, but I really want to be able to keep that lovely gloss that comes from well burnished paint.
I'm also interested in the speed/time advantage eg time spent per section. I did a 90k Honda Integra last weekend, that had soft but very swirled paint, and while 1 hit with the UDM and #80 was enough to get a stunning finish, it still took 12-14 slow passes to finish each area. I was really hoping to cut down the time needed per panel - is the Flex going to help me with this?
I'm also interested in the speed/time advantage eg time spent per section. I did a 90k Honda Integra last weekend, that had soft but very swirled paint, and while 1 hit with the UDM and #80 was enough to get a stunning finish, it still took 12-14 slow passes to finish each area. I was really hoping to cut down the time needed per panel - is the Flex going to help me with this?
RAG said:
With all due respect, there is nothing hiding in those pics. That MDX was 95% correct when I finished up with it. I agree with you that a lot fo people new to maching buffing can be misled by pics like this. That MDX did take a while to polish due to the it's size, so I'm not going to lie and say it was a breeze. I worked the IP on it on each section until it was completely broken down as well. And, yes, each time is dependent upon paint, polish, weather, speed, etc. If I had an Audi look like that, it would have to be a 2-3 step process with the Flex, and maybe still not 95%. Maybe 75%...pics coming on that shortly.
Bigpikle said:
Here is my '04 Allroad that I did over the holiday break. It had moderate swirling going on. I hit it with Menzerna PowerGloss on an orange Erasure pad on speed 6 with the Flex, followed by Menzerna 106FA on a white pad on speed 6 on the Flex.
There's still a couple hanging out int here, but looks much better than before.
At one point I tried a yellow pad with PG and did notice some micro-marring from it. It did clean up from the 106FA, but retreated back to the orange pads with PG nonetheless.
HowardPearson
New member
Bigpikle said:
I tested the flex on my 2001 Audi A4 last night. After doing a section with LC orange pad and SIP the only defects remaining were some deep scratches and pitting. The finish was left glossy wnd free of haze, only minor improvement were seen after a follow up with LC white/106FF.
I define one pass as a series of left/right or up/down overlapping strokes accros the work area (~4 sqr. ft.). With that being said, I was doing atleast 8 passes for each section to get the product to break down, I think I could have used less polish.
How many passes are people making with the Flex to get SIP to break down?
netspec
New member
detaildoc said:
My PC will be reassigned to that exact role! Flex rotary (3403) for heavy work.
imported_WhyteWizard
New member
RAG said:I feel it coming...a bunch of guys why are just getting the hang of this detail thing, just bought a Flex, but have no rotary experience are going to be upset - it's okay, I'm thicker skinned these days and can take a bashingJust my opinion, what do I know. :nixweiss
And I just had an idea, I'm going to ask my newly found Autopian friend (who just used the Flex for the first time) to come over for another session (we were experimenting panel by panel on his lady's Mustang, and we still have a few panels to go), only this time I'm going to put a rotary in his hands and let him decide regarding the ease of use, results, etc.
Hey Rag,
The rotary I learned on was Sioux model before the model two thousand, a real beast of a machine. I think it weighed twice as much as my 9227 and spun up with a snap. If memory serves it had a wooden handle. Speed control was on and off the trigger. So, now, having established my location as Geezerville...
I don't use my BO6040 for correction of anything much more than light scratches, car wash type, and for swirl removal because, I think like you, the rotary is both faster and smoother when it comes to cutting.
Putting your hands on the BO6040 opposite the way you would on your high speed and then just running it the same but opposite will get you a great result.
This is one I colorsanded and detailed.
Robert