Finally Tested the Flex

That's about what I expected of the Flex. I just don't see the need for anything other than a quality rotary and a PC. You can get both of those for the price of 1 flex, and have *way* more uses/correctibility.
 
I own a PC and a rotary . When the flex came out I try to get it but it was backorder so I got a Makita BO6040 from Amazon for

1 Makita BO6040 6.6 Amp 6-In... $249.99



I have not used my PC since . According to the specs on the Flex the Makita have more forced rotation . It is a very well build tool and very close to a rotary in power to correct .

But as good as the BO6040 is it is not a rotary . The rotary and the Makita pull about the same .



Cheers , Jean Paul
 
Yeah maaan. The blue P2 is my second favorite finishing pad...very very little difference between the two, but even though the green is alittle firmer, I tested these pads on a black Phaeton I used to detail (miserabely difficult/finicky paint), and I was able to finish down a little better with the green over the blue...so I ordered about 25 of them before they stopped making them. Of course, the eventually break in and become less and less firm, so I have infinite options regarding the stiffness of the pad I want.



And I'm in further agreement regarding the 1-step polish...great results can be achieved via rotary and a 1-step polish (of course it's not usually going to remove all the defects), but you're still going to be able to remove twice the defects given the same amount of time...I'll use a soft green or blue pad for dark finishes and a firm white pad with lots of pressure on lighter colors.



maesal said:
I agree Ryan. I'll add that you could do a 1 step job with the rotary. I do it every week. Just use a finishing pad (my favourite is the blue Propel 2) and a finishing polish and this will remove some swilrs, and will restore the shine if the conditions is not very very bad.
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They need to take the Flex and make a pure rotary equivalent (if they don't already), as for me, it has the perfect handle, dial placement, and overall ergonomics. Like the Metabo, only better dial placement (for me).
 
I find it interesting that everyone bashes the PC now however 3 years ago, that's all there was on the RO side. Granted new technology may have come out with something better but saying, "Oh, it's only good for waxes and things, if that" is just ironic to me.
 
dawiyo said:
I find it interesting that everyone bashes the PC now however 3 years ago, that's all there was on the RO side. Granted new technology may have come out with something better but saying, "Oh, it's only good for waxes and things, if that" is just ironic to me.
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I still only use my UDM on my ultra soft clearcoat, it does a great job. The Flex, I use it on the other cars that have medium to hard cc.
 
I'm not trying to stir the pot, but it is possible to get a 1 step polish removing majority of defects with the Flex 3401 as shown in the below before and after. This was done with an orange Erasure pad, IP, and running the 3401 on a speed 6.



Before:



210743945_SVzzg-M.jpg




After:



212649496_g4yTW-M.jpg




I've posted these shots before on my original Flex review thread, but thought I'd dig them up again for some of the newer Flex owners and those considering purchasing one. both shots were full sun shots. As you can see the paint on this '04 Acura MDX was destroyed. It was pretty much like that all over the car. The after pic was taken after correction and application of Menzerna FMJ. Also, it should be noted that it was about 2 days after I detailed it, so there is some dust and light dirt on it, but I think you get the idea. BTW, here is the finished product:



212649102_4wjsg-M.jpg




Granted, I believe that Acura paint is probably more on the softer side, but this is still a testament to what the 3401 can do. Just thought I'd throw my $.02.
 
dawiyo said:
I find it interesting that everyone bashes the PC now however 3 years ago, that's all there was on the RO side. Granted new technology may have come out with something better but saying, "Oh, it's only good for waxes and things, if that" is just ironic to me.
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No one is bashing the pc or the udm. The Flex is just so much better. However that should not take anything away from the 7336
 
DJ_Johnny V, How many pads per car do you use when working with the flex and a menzerna product? I am about to make a pad order and I'm trying to get an idea of how much to order.
 
tdekany said:
No one is bashing the pc or the udm. The Flex is just so much better. However that should not take anything away from the 7336
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I still believe the UDM is a great machine and will continue to use it on cars with very soft clearcoats, but on harder clearcoats, the Flex will save you time. It is also important to have it for those delicate and tight spots regardless of the clearcoat. I also prefer the UDM to apply the LSP and I like the fact that is has versatility in terms of bp's and attachements. Even with a Flex or rotary, I strongly believe having a UDM/PC is a wise investment for every detailer.
 
The Ford Model T replaced the horse and buggy. We have to move on and use the best technology to save time and effort. I still use the PC for carpet cleaning and LSP but otherwise the Flex just rocks!:tribe:
 
duke727 said:
DJ_Johnny V, How many pads per car do you use when working with the flex and a menzerna product? I am about to make a pad order and I'm trying to get an idea of how much to order.
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I'm usually right about about 1 pad per panel or 2. Usually, I start out on half the good and then do the front left quarter panel with 1 pad. Then, see how the pad is looking and whether it is dropping off in correcting ability. Sometimes, I can get a little bit of the driver's side door in, sometimes I can't. It all depends. I think I have about 8-10 orange pads and same number of white pads. I have about 6 yellow pads as well, and 2 red ones. Right now, this is enough pads to get me through an entire car changing pads as necessary and not having to worry about running low. Of course, I'll probably add some more this summer. Hope this helps.
 
duke727 said:
That a big contrast from detaildoc. Can anyone else chime in?
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If you spur or brush the pad after each panel there is no need to switch to a different pad unless it gets really dirty. Without a spur or brush, you may find chaning pads after every panel or 2 a good idea. If you don't have a brush or spur, take a terry cloth towel and wipe the excess residue off of the pad. It'll remove excess product which'll prolong it's use during the detail.
 
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