Cyclo vs Flex

GoudyL said:
Beh, in about a 6 months, we'll be getting alot of "My clearcoat just failed :( , what should I do??" posts. :nono
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IF they just correct it *once* then keep it nice they should be OK.



I have vehicles that were *hammered* with aggressive products/approaches and they're still fine years later.



The big thing is that people can't keep doing serious correction over and over.
 
reparebrise- I think about a Dynabrade now and then...not sure why I went with the Flex instead :think: I have more polishers than I need by far but I *would* like to do a side-by-side between the Dynabrade and the Flex.



For some reason the Dyanbrade just *looks* like it wouldn't be all that user-friendly. Wouldn't surprise me if I were *completely* wrong about that...can't always tell by looking.



Heh heh, I'll probably have the Dynabrade rattling around in my head for a while now :D
 
Accumulator said:
IF they just correct it *once* then keep it nice they should be OK.



I have vehicles that were *hammered* with aggressive products/approaches and they're still fine years later.



The big thing is that people can't keep doing serious correction over and over.
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How does one define "serious correction" though? Is an orange pad/SIP once a year serious or mild? Is it the amount of pressure one had to exert? The number of passes?
 
efnfast said:
How does one define "serious correction" though? Is an orange pad/SIP once a year serious or mild? Is it the amount of pressure one had to exert? The number of passes?
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I'd go by the amount of clear removed. In the absence of an ETG, I'd judge that by how severe the marring is and how completely it's removed.



E.g., I can use orange/M105 on the Audis and my GMC without taking off an appreciable amount of clear (good thing as that GMC is almost at the point where I can't correct it any more). For lighter marring I can use M105 with a softer pad. It *takes* something like that to remove even the lightest marring in a timely manner on those hard clearcoats, and M105 can behave rather gently depending on the pad/pressure you use with it.



Now if I tried that on the MPV I'd run out of clear in a moment...that vehicle gets much milder treatment and if that eventually means I have to live with some marring, well...so be it (or knowing me I'll have some more paintwork done...with lots of extra clear :D ).
 
Got my Flex today; I can see why people really like it so much.



LEAGUES better than a cyclo for correction (although I think the cyclo is better for sealing/waxing).



For correction I'm finding myself using SIP and an orange pad - spread it in at 2, several passes with medium pressure at 6, then back off to 5 for a few passes and finish at 3.



Then go to 106 - spread at 2, several passes with minimal pressure at 6, then a few passes at 5, and finish at 3.



Is the above 'okay'? I'm finding decent results, but wanting to make certain I'm not wasting my time (I remember when I first got my cyclo, I thought I had to go orange/83, green/83, white/83, then orange/80, green/80, white/80, hehe, so I figured I'd make sure I've got the Flex basics down and not wasting unnecessary time somewhere!!!)
 
efnfast- Eh..if it's working then it's working :D



I haven't tried the "up and down the scale" thing with the Flex's speed but I'm using different products.



Oh, and I wonder if you'd find a light burnishing/jeweling via Cyclo to be a worthwhile final touch :think: I sorta prefer that over doing it all via Flex.
 
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