Choosing my first rotary buffer?

Clean Dean

Clean Dean

Keep it clean !!!
I saw some great pics from Yosteve, and Jasonc2801, and I finally had an opportunity to Klasse a Silver Benz. The CLK 320 pictured is a 1998. I loved detailing this car! I used rightlok.com's polish instead of Klasse AIO and used the Porter Cable PC7424. After (1) coat of SG she looked better than new. This woman will definitely be a return customer.:xyxthumbs
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>What a cluttered dashboard! :D [/b]</blockquote>

ROFLMAO!!! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Just what I was thinking.
 
Hi, my name is Sam, and I am restoring a 1977 MG MGB Roadster. Currently I am embroiled in getting myself set up to tackle the bodywork, and I wanted to consult your advice on choosing a rotary buffer to correct the 3000 to 4000 grit wet-sanding scratches left after de-nibbing and leveling the orange peel on fresh Glasurit single-stage acrylic-urethane paint.

The MGB is not an easy car to polish, due to the number of compound curves, external body seems, and the compact dimensions. I?m also a beginner, and while I plan on practicing before I unleash myself on my beloved car, I?ll still need something pretty easy to use.

My research and intuition tell me that I?ll need a machine that is compact, lightweight, and easy to handle. For these reasons, my research has pointed me in the direction of the Metabo PE 12-175. The only detractors that I have read about this machine are (A) the fact that it features an on/off switch instead of an accelerator trigger, and (B) the fact that if one uses excessive pressure on the machine it can go into thermal shut-down (Non-issue, as you aren't supposed to lean that hard into a rotary buffer in the first place.). My question for you is: would the lack of an accelerator-trigger switch be too detrimental for my application as to warrant me looking elsewhere - like at the brand new Flex PE14-2-150 - or is it purely a matter of getting used to the difference in operation (As people relatively new to rotary buffers [using the Metabo], or those who use the Metabo a lot, do not seem to mind it?s absence.)?

Thank you very much for your time and advice.

Yours Truly,
Sam
 
I cant say I have used the Metabo or the flex but I have used a few rotaries. I personally like the trigger. Like you said maybe it is just what Im used to but I wont ever have a rotary without a trigger start. I like knowing that at any point in time I can slow the polisher down with the trigger but it doesnt have to come to a complete stop.

The new flex looks so tempting but the price is my reason to not buy it. I just cant justify it but if you are starting out and need one then why not get a great machine. Flex is a great brand, I have the 3401 and love it.

You could also look into the makita, its a great tool. I have a Hitachi which looks identical to the makita and it has yet to give me problems. I got it over the Makita due to a major price difference. I got the Hitachi for $140 shipped. I wouldnt hesitate to recommend the Hitachi to you. the Flex 3403 could also be an option if you are going to need to be using mostly small pads. All of these machines are cheaper than the Metabo or the new flex.

Not pushing you any direction or the other, just giving you some food for though.

Jon
 
Very rarely, even on tight cars, have I needed to use anything smaller than the Makita 9227c. I have used the Metabo and own the Mini Flex, and just prefer the 'feel' of the Makita.

 
Steamy- I'm in the middle of wet-sanding my 1989 Porsche, also with single stage, original glasurit paint. I'm using 1500, 2000, then 3000 grit paper. If you are taking it to a 4000 grit finish, most of your work is already done. If you are terribly concerned about burning your paint, I can tell you that the combination of the Porter Cable DA, Lake Country Tangerine pads and Megs 105 takes the sand marks right out, no problem, leaving, in my case, an extremely refined, mirror-like finish. I then switched to a white LC pad with 105 to refine it a bit more and take care of more delicate areas. At this point, I'm curious to see if polishing with Meg's 205 will make the paint look that much better- I'm truly stunned with my results!

I use the 4 inch pads for tight area's and a 4inch base with a 5.5inch pad for concave angles.

With the Porter Cable 7424 unit, you can (and should- finishes better) put more pressure on the paint, so once again, no issues with burning the paint. Granted, I would always tape delicate areas until you switch to the white pad with less pressure- big difference in cut between the Tangerine and White pads.

I have to agree with PAR though- I wish I had a trigger.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top