Can you recommend me the best all around non-synthetic carnauba waxes?

[Jreepers]

Hi all, I'm looking for a good all-around carnauba wax for my dark colored pearl coated daily driver. Pinnacle Souveran, P21s 100%, among others seem to be regarded highly here, however they apparently don't last longer than a month. I'm looking for something that'll last at least a little longer -- I care more about protection and longevity than appearance, although I of course don't want something that looks bad.



The kicker is I'd like to avoid a wax with synthetic polymers/chemicals such as Collinite #476, just because I like to keep things as "natural" as possible when I can.



Something that's easy to apply and remove during application is a bonus, as is something that's dye-free because paint protection films can be discolored by them.



Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Dan]

Megs #16 or Zymol Glassur are going to be your best bets. I wouldn't discount the collinites.

 

[Accumulator]

Hi all, I'm looking for a good all-around carnauba wax for my dark colored pearl coated daily driver. Pinnacle Souveran, P21s 100%, among others seem to be regarded highly here, however they apparently don't last longer than a month. I'm looking for something that'll last at least a little longer -- I care more about protection and longevity than appearance, although I of course don't want something that looks bad.



The kicker is I'd like to avoid a wax with synthetic polymers/chemicals such as Collinite #476, just because I like to keep things as "natural" as possible when I can....

Welcome to Autopia!



My winter driver is a dark pearl.



I woulda said "Collinite 476S or 845, hands down!" as that's what works for me on that car.



Got zero idea what you mean by "keeping things natural" in that context, but OK... (hope that doesn't sound snarky )



Souveran looks great, I use it on one car, but as you suspected it simply doesn't last on a driver. Been there, tried that. You'll be lucky if it lasts more than one wash.



I didn't like how P21s looked, too "bright" for such paints IMO, but that's just me.



Maybe you should look into Meguiar's M26, which is commonly available OTC.



One you don't hear about much that I liked a lot is ProWax W41. Google it up and see what you think.



Or Malm's. Another you never hear about any more, but I really liked it. Google that one up too as I dunno where you'll find info on it.



Any of those three oughta work for you, and they're all reasonably priced.

 

[Jreepers]

Thanks guys. Yeah, the Collinite looked like it would fit the bill, but when I checked out the MSDS (http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/MSDS-PDFs/Collinite476smsds.pdf) it says it contains petroleum distillates which per the MSDS can cause some definite health effects. Also, the tech sheet (http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech476pdf.pdf) says "Use in a well-ventilated area with protective eyewear and gloves".



So by "keeping things natural" I mean something that contains all (or mostly) natural ingredients.

 

[Accumulator]

Thanks guys. Yeah, the Collinite looked like it would fit the bill, but when I checked out the MSDS (http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/MSDS-PDFs/Collinite476smsds.pdf) it says it contains petroleum distillates which per the MSDS can cause some definite health effects. Also, the tech sheet (http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/Product-Tech-Sheets-PDF/TTech476pdf.pdf) says "Use in a well-ventilated area with protective eyewear and gloves".



So by "keeping things natural" I mean something that contains all (or mostly) natural ingredients.

Thanks for explaining.



Note that I cannot *imagine* anybody using/needing protective eyewear with Collinite stuff, and I generally use their older Pre-VOC-regs products. No, I'm not being dismissive of your concerns, I just think you're reading too much into their CYA disclaimer.



AFAIK, *every* wax is gonna have those petroleum distillates, and not necessarilly in lower concentrations that the Collinite.



I don't want to beat you over the head with my views here...maybe something else will be better suited.



BUT..here's a thought- generally, again AFAIK, liquid waxes contain more solvents/etc. than pastes. Just FYI, not sure how it might factor in to your choice.



I wonder what, say....Malm's or Meguiar's (since I'd suggest either of those) would tell you if you mentioned this concern :think:

 

[tom p.]

Jreepers, welcome aboard! Your primary focus is going to be a purer type of carnauba wax....you'll be lucky to get 2 - 2.5 months out of any of them.



IME, these products are perfect for the non-daily driver types. Apart from that, contemporary sealants and coatings are king today.

 

[Jreepers]

Thanks for explaining.



Note that I cannot *imagine* anybody using/needing protective eyewear with Collinite stuff, and I generally use their older Pre-VOC-regs products. No, I'm not being dismissive of your concerns, I just think you're reading too much into their CYA disclaimer.



AFAIK, *every* wax is gonna have those petroleum distillates, and not necessarilly in lower concentrations that the Collinite.



I don't want to beat you over the head with my views here...maybe something else will be better suited.



BUT..here's a thought- generally, again AFAIK, liquid waxes contain more solvents/etc. than pastes. Just FYI, not sure how it might factor in to your choice.



I wonder what, say....Malm's or Meguiar's (since I'd suggest either of those) would tell you if you mentioned this concern :think:

No problem, and I'm not so sure about all wax having those petroleum distillates. For example I'm looking at the ingredients list and MSDS for some Zymol waxes (like the Glassur that was recommended) and they don't appear to say anything about them: ZYMOL GLASUR GLAZE 8 oz



Unless they're simply not disclosing it.

 

[Jreepers]

Jreepers, welcome aboard! Your primary focus is going to be a purer type of carnauba wax....you'll be lucky to get 2 - 2.5 months out of any of them.



IME, these products are perfect for the non-daily driver types. Apart from that, contemporary sealants and coatings are king today.

Thank you! I think 2-2.5 months is good enough for me, I'm willing to sacrifice longevity to get a more natural / (in my opinion) less potentially harmful product.



Any in particular that you recommend?

 

[tom p.]

FWIW, I think I used to get pretty good durability out of CG's 5050 carnauba....certainly better than the Zymol products. There are many others out there, I'm sure others will share some additional ideas with you.

 

[Dan]

FWIW, I think I used to get pretty good durability out of CG's 5050 carnauba....certainly better than the Zymol products. There are many others out there, I'm sure others will share some additional ideas with you.

Most of the Zymols are very short lived but Glasur will outlast CG5050, which is by the OP's definition, synthetic.

 

[DM101]

My vote too !!!

fwiw, i think i used to get pretty good durability out of cg's 5050 carnauba....certainly better than the zymol products. There are many others out there, i'm sure others will share some additional ideas with you.

 

[imported_PiPUK]

You should be aware that MSDS often do not state all ingredients. Admittedly I work on EU regulations but we tend to have more rather than less that we have to state. In our case, you need only note ingredients which are hazardous and present in concentrations above a certain minimum (this is typically 1% unless the ingredient falls into a toxic or worse hazard). Petroleum distillates would normally need to be identified because one would tend to use them at relatively high levels in a hard wax (actually, in liquid waxes, you can go without any solvent). Of course you also trust that the MSDS is correct - over here, it is common for MSDS to be either wilfully or negligently wrong/misleading.



For this same reason I would be cautious about attempts to find a very 'natural' product. Many of the polymers and other silicones which will routinely make their way into waxes will be non-hazardous so there is no obligation for them to be detailed on a safety sheet. More than this, in trying to use low VOC, you immediately push yourself towards products which will have synthetic carriers because many of the routine organic and 'natural' options are recognised VOCs.



Honestly a very difficult one and I suspect almost impossible to know the truth short of seeing a product formulation sheet.

 

[SON1C]

imo if a wax lasts 4+ months its more than likely a hybrid wax

if you want a nuba wax thats not a hybrid check out the dodo juice core 8

 

[Alfisti]

My vote goes to CG 5050.



Nearly all pastes contain high concentrations of PDs. Liquids contain less and are routinely mostly water.



Personally, I wouldn't worry about PDs if used in a ventilated area. You breath in far worse things on a more regular basis. But that's just me....

 

[Jreepers]

You should be aware that MSDS often do not state all ingredients. Admittedly I work on EU regulations but we tend to have more rather than less that we have to state. In our case, you need only note ingredients which are hazardous and present in concentrations above a certain minimum (this is typically 1% unless the ingredient falls into a toxic or worse hazard). Petroleum distillates would normally need to be identified because one would tend to use them at relatively high levels in a hard wax (actually, in liquid waxes, you can go without any solvent). Of course you also trust that the MSDS is correct - over here, it is common for MSDS to be either wilfully or negligently wrong/misleading.



For this same reason I would be cautious about attempts to find a very 'natural' product. Many of the polymers and other silicones which will routinely make their way into waxes will be non-hazardous so there is no obligation for them to be detailed on a safety sheet. More than this, in trying to use low VOC, you immediately push yourself towards products which will have synthetic carriers because many of the routine organic and 'natural' options are recognised VOCs.



Honestly a very difficult one and I suspect almost impossible to know the truth short of seeing a product formulation sheet.

Thanks, that's good insight and in fact I've always felt that way. However I do also feel (perhaps wrongly) a little more comfortable with a "clean" MSDS over a not-so-"clean" one. Another reason why I'd like to avoid petroleum distillates though: apparently they're not the best for paint protection films (clear bras) and can cause them to prematurely yellow and wear.

 

[Accumulator]

Nearly all pastes contain high concentrations of PDs. Liquids contain less.....

Huh, I thought it was the other way around I'll defer to you on this.

 

[Jreepers]

Most of the Zymols are very short lived but Glasur will outlast CG5050, which is by the OP's definition, synthetic.

Interesting that Glasur will outlast CG5050, that's good to know, I'll look into the Glasur (and CG5050). The only turn off is it costs $100. $50 is even a bit high, but I'd be willing to pay it to get close to what I'm looking for. How long does CG5050 and Glasur typically last, do you know?

 

[togwt]

Huh, I thought it was the other way around

The hard paste is harder to work with, whereas a ‘soft’ paste wax is considerably easier, but the protection in terms of length of durability is superior. Liquid wax due to its higher solvent and / or polymer content has a more reflective (wetter) look than hard wax, whereas a hard wax is slightly more durable due to its higher wax content



They differ basically in the amount of solvents, oils and etc. Carnauba is diluted with solvents, when you apply a paste wax, the friction (heat) helps melt the wax and evaporate the solvents. A liquid wax usually contains more volatile solvents that evaporate out when the wax is applied. The excess wax, left over lubricants, excess bonding agents, solvent residues and whatever else is left forms the "haze" that is buffed out to reveal the wax.

 

[Accumulator]

TOGWT- What you posted about sounds like what I'd always thought, that the liquid contains *more* solvents/PDs than the paste



Don't mean to turn this into some kinda of :argue though....

 

[togwt]

Just stating what I've always believed to be so...I'm far too old for drama or arguments; but always more than willing to learn