So what is the real deal with these "ceramic coatings" these days? If someone can give me a fool proof explanation of what it is and truly what it does AND if it actually DOES work leaps better than a quality sealant that would be great. My last Sealant I used was Zaino and it worked amazingly well on my car, but mind you that it never saw ANY bad weather. This car will.
Brand new car- (focus ST) products and steps?
- Thread starter Striker
- Start date
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Just type Stay Fresh car care, they are on FB also.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Ceramic Coating materials exhibit a high level of hardness, thermal resistance, and a elevated melting point which out last any type of wax and also almost all sealants out there. Ceramic Coating is like adding a clear coat on your vehicle`s paint.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Accumulator, I always like to clay after any decon, it`s just me and it doesn`t hurt either.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
BTW, there`s nothing wrong in using Zaino sealant on your ST. I use it and alot of folks do also.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I *almost* posted something about using a coating..so many people are 100% satisfied with them.
And yeah, even *I* usually like Zaino on white, although [INSERT something about my preference for the FK].
Heh heh, it doesn`t hurt as long as the claying is done as carefully/gently as we do it
Some people can`t seem to clay one panel without instilling some degree of marring, but that should be less likely after the Decon gets all the nasty stuff off.
And yeah, even *I* usually like Zaino on white, although [INSERT something about my preference for the FK].
Heh heh, it doesn`t hurt as long as the claying is done as carefully/gently as we do it
Some people can`t seem to clay one panel without instilling some degree of marring, but that should be less likely after the Decon gets all the nasty stuff off.
I think i`ll pass on the ceramic coatings for now- too much money and I also don`t mind applying sealant a couple times per year or more if need be.
Called my supplier and there is no FK at their location. She recommended Collinite Insulator Wax....from a protection perspective only----is this better than FK1000?
Called my supplier and there is no FK at their location. She recommended Collinite Insulator Wax....from a protection perspective only----is this better than FK1000?
Accumulator
Well-known member
IME (rather extensive on this one, used Collinite stuff for decades), Collinite 476S lasts a good bit longer than 845 Insulator Wax and FK1000P simply kills both of them. I *finally* quit using Collinite on my `93 Audi in favor of Fk1000P even though I liked the look of Collinite better (had the same experience with the Yukon XLD I used to have, sure loved living with the FK after I changed that big thing to it). The FK`s better durability and protection were simply too significant for me to ignore any longer.
Note that some others have had differing experiences, so remember that YMMV always applies when it comes to comparing durable LSPs. Not like "one`s a bad choice and another`s a good choice" in any huge way.
Accumulator
Well-known member
Striker- Noting that I`m not a big fan of Zaino (one of the few LSPs I can recongize IRL)...the FK1000P will probably look a *LOT* more Zaino-like than any of the Collinites would. That "shiny sealant" look is why I resisted using FK1000P on dark colors for a while even though I came to be OK with it. Sounds like it might be just what *you* like, or at least in the same ballpark.
I`ve been doing my exterior trim/seals with Utlima`s Tire & Trim Guard +, maintaining with either a spraywax or ValuGard`s FastFinish. I *never* use the Dressing approach for exterior trim/seals any more, only my tires. Haven`t touched my 303 for years.
For seals that don`t show/get exposed to the elements I use either 1Z or Wurth (slightly better, much more expensive) Gummi Pflege sticks.
I`ve been doing my exterior trim/seals with Utlima`s Tire & Trim Guard +, maintaining with either a spraywax or ValuGard`s FastFinish. I *never* use the Dressing approach for exterior trim/seals any more, only my tires. Haven`t touched my 303 for years.
For seals that don`t show/get exposed to the elements I use either 1Z or Wurth (slightly better, much more expensive) Gummi Pflege sticks.
Accumulator
Well-known member
If you post a link to the specific ValuGard Rust Inhibitor I might`ve used it..they have new stuff that I haven`t tried.
Yeah, the SprayWax approach works fine for me for *ALL* of the "exterior black plastic and rubber stuff that isn`t regular paint". But I still use the UTTG+ on some things for durability.
If somebody wanted to criticise the FastFinish they could say that it`s either "a [crappy] SprayWax that does a little cleaning" or "a [crappy] QD that leaves lots of stuff behind". It`s not really a SprayWax or QD but somewhere in-between IMO. But I simply *love* it for exterior rubber/seals/etc. After using it on the Tahoe`s trashed rubber for a while I suddenly noticed that gee, it`s not so trashed any more and my wife (who couldn`t care less about the Tahoe) mentions it quite often! It`s my go-to Drying Aid for the seals around the side glass...every single wash even after I`ve sealed with the UTTG+
Accumulator
Well-known member
Clay only removes above/on-surface contamination while the Decon products get down into the texture/pores/microfissures of the paint and will neutralize contamination that clay might leave behind.
On a new car, I`d be *very* surprised if you needed to do any claying after a good Decon process, but I`ve never used IronX specifically.
Well, I think I definitely need to stock up on my detailing stuff even tho one of my cars doesn`t get driven at all, I still prefer to pamper it in the garage.
I would also appreciate a good product to upkeep these beautiful leather RECARO seats- (I have a 6+ year old bottle of LEXOL conditioner--not sure if this is good or not?)
Also any recommendation on a good clay kit or do I not need this for two brand new cars?
I would also appreciate a good product to upkeep these beautiful leather RECARO seats- (I have a 6+ year old bottle of LEXOL conditioner--not sure if this is good or not?)
Also any recommendation on a good clay kit or do I not need this for two brand new cars?
rlmccarty2000
Active member
I still like 303 on my interior rubber pieces. As far as leather care, most leather in new cars is coated with a plastic material so a conditioner is not necessary. If the seats are dirty wipe with a mild APC and a clean microfiber. You can use the 303 on the seats to give them a little uv protection. Search the forum for more advice on leather care. Tons of great advice here.
Yes, I was always big on cleaning the leather upholstery over any type of conditioner. My buddy swears by Autoglym Leather Cleaner
Accumulator
Well-known member
Striker- I utterly hate LEXOL and wouldn`t use it on *anything* these days, not even my dog leashes much less a vehicle
Most people don`t want to bother with the hassle, but on my S8 (the leather interior I really care about), I use stuff from The Leather Doctor. But for the most part I just use Interior QDs and I hardly ever "treat" leather, not for years on end with the possible exception of the dog-hauling Tahoe . But that`s just me...the trick with the Recaros will probably be avoiding creasing/wear on the bolsters and I`m not of much help with that as "patina from honest use" doesn`t really bother me and IME modern auto leather hardly ever wears out/needs repair work as long as you just keep it clean. The S8 doesn`t show such wear yet (basically never drive it, as with yours) and/but I dunno if I`ll care if/when it does.
If you use an APC, be sure it doesn`t leave things alkaline as leather does best when left slightly acidic. I`ve never needed to use such stuff on seats except for new-to-me used vehicles; if my leather does get too soiled for an IQD I use some Leather Cleaner (Leather Doctor/Leather Masters/Sonus..all OK, prefer the Leather Doctor stuff).
As rlmccarty2000 pointed out, most leather is coated and nothing will really penetrate the coating very well until it wears. Once that`s happened you can get product to penetrate via the microfissures/etc. and in some of the rare cases where I did treat dry/stiff leather my experiences in that regard have been totally opposite of the Conventional Wisdom- product penetrated readily, made a *HUGE* difference , worked great even though people said it wouldn`t happen because of the coating.
If you con`t do a Decontamination, then it might benefit from claying. If you *do* decontaminate it, I`d be very surprised if a new vehicle also needed the clay. Most people like the ClayMagic stuff (these days I just use Sonus SFX to "clay my LSP clean" as that`s all my vehicles ever seem to need. SFX is too gentle for "real decon" work).
Most people don`t want to bother with the hassle, but on my S8 (the leather interior I really care about), I use stuff from The Leather Doctor. But for the most part I just use Interior QDs and I hardly ever "treat" leather, not for years on end with the possible exception of the dog-hauling Tahoe . But that`s just me...the trick with the Recaros will probably be avoiding creasing/wear on the bolsters and I`m not of much help with that as "patina from honest use" doesn`t really bother me and IME modern auto leather hardly ever wears out/needs repair work as long as you just keep it clean. The S8 doesn`t show such wear yet (basically never drive it, as with yours) and/but I dunno if I`ll care if/when it does.
If you use an APC, be sure it doesn`t leave things alkaline as leather does best when left slightly acidic. I`ve never needed to use such stuff on seats except for new-to-me used vehicles; if my leather does get too soiled for an IQD I use some Leather Cleaner (Leather Doctor/Leather Masters/Sonus..all OK, prefer the Leather Doctor stuff).
As rlmccarty2000 pointed out, most leather is coated and nothing will really penetrate the coating very well until it wears. Once that`s happened you can get product to penetrate via the microfissures/etc. and in some of the rare cases where I did treat dry/stiff leather my experiences in that regard have been totally opposite of the Conventional Wisdom- product penetrated readily, made a *HUGE* difference , worked great even though people said it wouldn`t happen because of the coating.
If you con`t do a Decontamination, then it might benefit from claying. If you *do* decontaminate it, I`d be very surprised if a new vehicle also needed the clay. Most people like the ClayMagic stuff (these days I just use Sonus SFX to "clay my LSP clean" as that`s all my vehicles ever seem to need. SFX is too gentle for "real decon" work).
Striker- I utterly hate LEXOL and wouldn`t use it on *anything* these days, not even my dog leashes much less a vehicle
Most people don`t want to bother with the hassle, but on my S8 (the leather interior I really care about), I use stuff from The Leather Doctor. But for the most part I just use Interior QDs and I hardly ever "treat" leather, not for years on end with the possible exception of the dog-hauling Tahoe . But that`s just me...the trick with the Recaros will probably be avoiding creasing/wear on the bolsters and I`m not of much help with that as "patina from honest use" doesn`t really bother me and IME modern auto leather hardly ever wears out/needs repair work as long as you just keep it clean. The S8 doesn`t show such wear yet (basically never drive it, as with yours) and/but I dunno if I`ll care if/when it does.
If you use an APC, be sure it doesn`t leave things alkaline as leather does best when left slightly acidic. I`ve never needed to use such stuff on seats except for new-to-me used vehicles; if my leather does get too soiled for an IQD I use some Leather Cleaner (Leather Doctor/Leather Masters/Sonus..all OK, prefer the Leather Doctor stuff).
As rlmccarty2000 pointed out, most leather is coated and nothing will really penetrate the coating very well until it wears. Once that`s happened you can get product to penetrate via the microfissures/etc. and in some of the rare cases where I did treat dry/stiff leather my experiences in that regard have been totally opposite of the Conventional Wisdom- product penetrated readily, made a *HUGE* difference , worked great even though people said it wouldn`t happen because of the coating.
If you con`t do a Decontamination, then it might benefit from claying. If you *do* decontaminate it, I`d be very surprised if a new vehicle also needed the clay. Most people like the ClayMagic stuff (these days I just use Sonus SFX to "clay my LSP clean" as that`s all my vehicles ever seem to need. SFX is too gentle for "real decon" work).
Thanks buddy-
-I think I`ll stick with simply cleaning the leather with a damp rag and every few months with a designated cleaner of some sort (APC, leather masters, etc) I`ve noticed nothing from coating the thick leather in my Trans Am with any conditioners. It always remained the same.
-If I can skip the claying process by using a decon---fantastic. I really don`t feel like machine polishing after claying LOL