Best protecting sealnts available?

levander said:
If you replaced the DG111 with FK1000P would you still wait the 12 hours in between?



I'm currently using Duragloss products, but am thinking when I run out of the DG111, I'm switching to the FK1000P.
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If topping something with FK1000P, I wouldn't wait to do it; the FK1000P will be *so* much more significant that whatever it's going over that it won't matter.



I'd wait at least a week before doing another layer of FK1000P though, no matter what the folks at FinishKare say. When the layering goes haywire it results in pseudoholograms (presumably from solvent effect) that can be a huge PIA to sort out.
 
Accumulator said:
If topping something with FK1000P, I wouldn't wait to do it; the FK1000P will be *so* much more significant that whatever it's going over that it won't
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So, adding the DG601 into the process is probably just a waste of time?



Only do DG501 then FK1000P? Don't do DG601, then DG501, and then FK1000P?



(I'm using DG501 instead of DG105 as was mentioned above).
 
levander said:
So, adding the DG601 into the process is probably just a waste of time?



Only do DG501 then FK1000P? Don't do DG601, then DG501, and then FK1000P?



(I'm using DG501 instead of DG105 as was mentioned above).
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Eh, I can't really answer as I just don't know from the DuraGloss stuff :nixweiss Don't have a clue about what their various products do, sorry...
 
levander said:
So, adding the DG601 into the process is probably just a waste of time?



Only do DG501 then FK1000P? Don't do DG601, then DG501, and then FK1000P?



(I'm using DG501 instead of DG105 as was mentioned above).
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You do realize 501 has allot more cleaners in it that 105?? The 601 is not a sealant, it is a bonding agent that is supposed to boost the durability of all of DG's sealants.
 
What about collinite 915, I have used twice on same car in 3weeks apart. It was a buick sedan pewter color. After i did it first time the guy loved it and wanted me to again but both inside and out. As i was coming to to work on it in the morning, i sprayed some tar stuff from Rain-x ( which worked pretty decent), anyway as i scrubbed some of tar and bugs- i went to rinse it down and the water beading was still very relentless all throughout the car.



Collinite 915 seems to bond to painted surfaces very well. It is just so much effort and technical advising into the application in getting it right or else it is a bummer to buff down.
 
pwaug said:
You do realize 501 has allot more cleaners in it that 105?? The 601 is not a sealant, it is a bonding agent that is supposed to boost the durability of all of DG's sealants.
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Yes, 501 has more cleaners than 105.



And that 601 is a bonding agent is why I was wondering if it should maybe just be skipped if using FK1000P. Accumulator saying Fk1000P being more "significant" than other stuff would be, to the point of skipping extended curing... But, without having tried it, I can see how he'd be hesitant to answer.
 
levander said:
Accumulator saying Fk1000P being more "significant" than other stuff would be, to the point of skipping extended curing... But, without having tried it, I can see how he'd be hesitant to answer.
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Right. IF doing two coats or more of FK1000P (with *plenty* of time between them), I can't see any underlying product(s) making a significant diff. If only doing one coat of FK1000P it might be different, but eh... :nixweiss
 
umi000 said:
Hehehe... some old threads, for your perusal:



Duragloss FC & Zaino Z6 - Same Product?

Interesting comparison between Duragloss 101 and Zaino AIO

DuraGloss & Zaino

Zaino equivalents in Duragloss lineup?
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And I just bought some DG 105 too:( Come to think of it, it does have that Z5 smell to it also.



From what I have seen, Zaino is supposed to be a polymer sealant while DG is an acrylic sealant. Do those difference make either perform that much different than the other? From my experience, and others I have seen on the forums, the Zaino sealants are not the best when it comes to protecting from the elements and fallout. That alone has kept me from using Zaino anymore. If the DG sealants are that similar to Zaino, I don't think I even want to use the DG now





As dfar as the DG 105 and and FK1000P, do either of them contain any fillers or leave a white residue one they dry?



I'm wanting to get one more good application on next week before storage. I was going to use the DG 105, but not so sure now and if I should use 1000P instead
 
Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.
 
RedlineIRL said:
As dfar as the DG 105 and and FK1000P, do either of them contain any fillers or leave a white residue one they dry?
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I can't speak for DG 105 but as far as FK1000P is concerned, yes. It can cake up if applied too thick and the residue will be visible in crevices, along edges, on trim, etc. if not addressed. It can also be a little stubborn to remove depending on how sloppy you are during application. Honestly, this is the one thing I don't like about the product. ....but it's other traits make it worth considering IMO (depending on what you're looking for in an LSP).
 
TOGWT said:
Be cognizant that there are no polymers, nanotechnology coatings or waxes that are acid-proof; they all only offer short-term resistance. The most pertinent factor is to have a layer of (sacrificial) protection between the acid and your paint surface. The second is to ensure that is removed and any residue is neutralized as soon as possible. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant, as this acts as a sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface plus the reapplication of the sacrificial barrier on a regular basis.



Protection - an acrylic polymer or polyethylene-acrylic (Klasse, Jeff Werkstatt or Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish) are all acid-based so they are more resistant to acidic pollutants (acid rain, bird excrement, and etc) there is no product wax, polymer or nano coating, including CeramiClear that is acid-proof. For added protection apply an organic wax over the polymer sealant as this sacrificial barrier and by washing the vehicles paint surface on a regular basis.
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Good info, thanks for sharing. When you mention an organinc wax are you referring to a carnuba?





While we're talking about the best protecting sealants, I have some question on a couple of them that I decided to try out, DG105 and FK1000P. On my vehicles it seems like the LSP protection dinishes a lot faster on the horizontal surfaces on the car, hood and roof especially, than anywhere else. I am sure that this is due to the more contact to heat and moisture than other surfaces. What I was thinking of doing is using DG105 on the entire vehicle, except for the hood, roof, and trunk where I'd use FK 1000P. Do you all think that the 1000P will make much more of a noticable increase in durability than using DG105 on them? This week coming up will probably be my last chance for a while to get everything detailed and protected, so my main priority is making the protection last many months
 
RedlineIRL said:
Good info, thanks for sharing. When you mention an organinc wax are you referring to a carnuba? ...
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That's my choice but a synthetic wax will accomplish the same thing
 
Are all the ones mentioned provide very good protection against winter elements?! I need something with the "best" protection possible.
 
You will be fine with DG or 1000P. I have used DG for years . Holds up and looks great .



My DG for winter is the following : 601 followed by 105 , then 111 . AW or FC&S for maint. IMO DG makes some of the best stuff out there . I've had area's that have needed attention on certain cars and after trying all the "boutique" stuff , DG would get the job done .



1000P has great looks and durability too.



Durability can be so subjective to climates , and washes and even what you drive through in winter . The vertical and horizontal durability is also to subjective. On one hand the hood and top get max exposure to sun stuff , but the vertical panels take more abuse with driving in rain , salt , sand , snow , ect..... so it's all a crap shoot IMO .



Find the product you like to work with and you like the looks of and keep it maintained .
 
I also use the same winter protection that Fallguy uses for my ladies Ford Escape. DG makes great products and aren't over priced. They seem to handle the brutal Wisconsin winters with all the snow and road salt. It actually just got done with a chem guys strong wash, clay, dg 601, 105, and topped with 111. I also use AW for treatments after a ONR wash in winter.
 
I am going to work on getting a final detail this weekend before it gets too cool out. I have narrowed it down to either using the DG601 and DG105 or FK1000P. Has anyone here done a side by side comparison of the two, and can comment on which is the more hydrophobic, smaller tighter beading, and resisits dirt from settling on the vehicle the best? Or even just the characterics of both? If it was going to be warmer for a little while longer I'd go ahead and test both myself, but being new to both products I want to choose the best one becuase it may be a while before I can apply an LSP again
 
I really like BFWD but im hearing its not the greatest for winter??? Is this true, cause I dont feel like buying anything new just for my winter coat. The car sits outside but not going to be driven in snow/salt.



So stick with the BFWD or would you guys switch to something more durable like DG105 or FK1000p. And these are both LSPs right?
 
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