Behold! The power of AIO! (lots of pictures)

Thanks for the comments guys. :) I tried to keep this basic so that anyone with a PC, a red Meguiar's pad, and some AIO could do the same thing. As far as keeping it damp I ended up needing to clean it several times to keep it from getting loaded up. I do a quick spin dry on the PC till water stops spinning out of it. That's about as damp as I keep it. AIO still spreads a long way even on a job like this. I probably only used an ounce or maybe two. The bottle I keep my AIO in was hardly dented and I had just filled it up. I should take a pic of the bottle and you can see how much I used. This job didn't include a clay job. I offered it but he said he just wanted the oxidation gone and he didn't care about how smooth it was. I would have clayed after the AIO though. Like you said, it would fill up the clay too quick. If I was going to be really complete on this truck (if he would have let me do it) I would have done it this way:



AIO

Clay

DACP

UPP

P21S



That would have really looked and felt good. It would have added another hour or two to the bill and he didn't want to do that I guess. Still, it turned out really well and it even picked me up 3 more jobs when I brought it into work. People were pretty impressed with the change. Who can blame them? AIO is impressive stuff. :)
 
I know the product is great, but you have some SKILLS!!! I would never had thought that a pink truck would ever look that good again.
 
I didn't use DACP on that. That is just AIO and UPP. If I were to use DACP then I would use it second because AIO is pretty much just a cleaner. You could do it either way I guess. On this particular vehicle I would follow up AIO with DACP because I like using cleaners to clean and polishes to polish. If it was my own car then I would use DACP first and then AIO as a base for the UPP. Different processes for different cars. Unless you are only using two products all the time then you can't use the same procedure on every car every time. You have to change it up based on the condition of the vehicle and what you want the end result to be.
 
hmm oh man now Im confused.. I thought you're suppose to Claybar before doing anything.. So hm why AIO first then Clay and then DACP..



I thought AIO is more than a Cleaner, it's a Polisher/Sealant. Aren't you better doing the Clay, then DACP, AIO and then UPP or whatever.



ARGH so confusin#@$@
 
You have to understand that this isn't my truck. I only can do what the customer wants me to do. Sure it is best if you clay the car. If the customer doesn't want to pay the extra bucks that it is going to cost to do that then what can ya do? He wanted the oxidation removed. That's all I did. If he wanted it clayed and waxed and all that then I would have had to charge him more than I did.



AIO is basicly just a cleaner. I don't hold much stock in its ability to polish or seal. Its a good base for another polymer sealant to bond to but the real sealant in the Klasse system is the SG.



All I wanted to do on this truck was remove the oxidation. AIO is my product of choice for doing that. There are a dozen other products that would have done it just as well. I like AIO though. I topped it with UPP for kicks and giggles. He didn't pay for that. I just sort of threw it in because I wanted it to look good.
 
AWESOME work.:bow:

May I ask if the time you quote for each stage includes buffing it off?

I'm considering abandoning my 10" random orbital for a real pc, and paying for my new hobby through detailing on the side.
 
Well, Jngrbrdman, my hat's off to you yet again. :bow You're a magician.



Now ... you have me thinking. The old Benz has been somewhat neglected as I've focused on the Jags. Paint has very light swirls (from my Autopian days, when I was proud that I took it to a car wash every couple of weeks) and there's a sort of "cloudiness" that I'm guessing is oxidation.



I've been washing properly since moving to Autopia, and recently I tried the SEC, but it didn't really do much of anything. Are you saying the AIO would make a difference? And, remember, I'm still doing it all by hand.



P.S. (I hope this isn't thread-jacking. Just trying to get a realistic appraisal of AIO's capabilities.)
 
Lynn said:
Now ... you have me thinking. The old Benz has been somewhat neglected as I've focused on the Jags. Paint has very light swirls (from my Autopian days, when I was proud that I took it to a car wash every couple of weeks) and there's a sort of "cloudiness" that I'm guessing is oxidation.
Click to expand...



Hey Lynn, This might be your perfect opportunity to do some experementing with the PC if you find yourself not being able to hold out for your scheduled training.



Oops, I really think were thread jacking now. I better quit.
 
Does anyone know where I can buy AIO in the Boston area? I'd like to try it this weekend on my daughter's car...it's red, also.
 
Klasse isn't typicaly available in stores. Its kind of hit and miss if you can find it. The easiest way to get it is to order it online. Some dealerships sell it but its pretty tough to know which ones.



Lynn, AIO is an easy product to use by hand. If the car doesn't have 10 years of oxidation on it then it would be very easy to use. I used to always use it by hand untill I started having trouble with it sticking and being tough to buff off on really bad cars. All I know is that it wouldn't hurt your situation. If you've got oxidation on the surface then AIO would clean it off. ghlavaty has a good thought when he says that it would be a good product to test you PC skills on. Because AIO isn't abrasive you don't run much risk doing any damage to your paint. Not that you really run much of a risk when you use a PC anyway, but the risk would be lower using something like AIO.



On that truck I looked at it and saw about a 3 hour job. I figured it would take about 2 hours to apply and buff off the product and another hour to apply and buff the UPP and inspect the truck for areas I missed. I came in pretty close to my estimated time. After awhile you have to get good at it or else you get burned a lot. I figured by working for $40 per hour then I should charge $120. I wanted to do this truck really badly and I wanted some referal business so I only charged $100. As it turned out I finished a little under 3 hours anyway so I was fine with that. He really liked it too. He was about to take it in for a new paint job because he didn't think this kind of thing could be repaired. A $100 detail is better than a $800 dollar paint job anyday. :)



UPP is Platinum Ultimate Paint Protection. Its a polymer sealant like Klasse is. I like it because it has that carnauba wet look to it after you apply it. Its like applying a wax that will actually protect and last longer than 3 weeks in the sun and you get awesome reflection and depth to boot. Good stuff.
 
I used AIO way back in 1988 on my red non-clearcoat vehicle and

had similar great results....but at the time I thought it was probably

too harsh for frequent use. Seeing this makes me think yes.



On the other side of the coin I sure wish Zaino made a cleaner/polymer protectant,

and it looks like AIO may be the way to go there.
 
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