beginning to dislike opti-coat

Try MarkV WSR, or call up DrG. That WSR is suppose to be released soon. Soon as in it's released, it's released!
 
Ok, tonight I washed my car and went ahead and applied optiseal over the OC. When I was washing it, there was one area I had put OS on about a week or 2 ago. The beading was instantly noticable next to the OC part of the car. Definitely added a bit of that typical sealant glassy look. I will keep you guys updated on how it works and how long it sticks around (no pun intended lol).



Once it does wear off though I think i'm going to use my menzerna 4500 cut to clean all of the paint and start applying OS on a regular basis to help with the spotting issue... plus i'm bored and I want to put more sh*t on my car lol.
 
Ok, so I had applied the OS over my OC as my above post says. As it has sit on the paint for a while it has definitely cured and given it a nice glassy finish... much better than just the standard OC finish. Of course it's only been 2 days, but it does feel pretty slick... not super slick... but again, better than just OC by itself. Right now my car wash method is of course the 2 bucket along with rinsing the sponge before each panel. I'm using adam's car wash though i'm not overly impressed with their products, but it is ph neutral so that will help a bit (I hope) with the OS durability. If I could get a month out of it... i'd be satisfied with that.



I think next I may try powerlock over it, just to see how to does and how it lasts, since it's shown to be very durable on uncoated paint.
 


I have a few products I have used post wash to enhance the slickness sand looks of OC. As a post wash drying aid I love FK425. It leaves the surface super slick. I have also used CG V7, DG Aquawax, and OCW. All three work well with OCW being the best in looks IMO.

 
Guitarist302008 said:
Put it on a MF towel... applied it straight to the area and rubbed the hell out of it.... nothing :(
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Bad etching will take repeated applications, only on clearfilm will CG water spot remover possibly not take the etch out. I use this product on a monthly basis and it never fails if enough effort is put forth.
 
Auto Concierge said:
Bad etching will take repeated applications, only on clearfilm will CG water spot remover possibly not take the etch out. I use this product on a monthly basis and it never fails if enough effort is put forth.
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Oddly enough it's now failed for me... twice. On my hood I had to polish a spot out that it wouldn't remove and on my friends Evo glass... I had to use 0000 steel wool and polish it.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
Oddly enough it's now failed for me... twice. On my hood I had to polish a spot out that it wouldn't remove and on my friends Evo glass... I had to use 0000 steel wool and polish it.
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If the etching is really bad, what the gel does is "Soften it up" and allows for the removal. This is especially important on the finish as then less clear is removed as if I wanted too I could sand and compound water spots easily..........................but then there goes 2-6 microns with the quickness depending on which grit is used.



Steel wool will work, but then are micro scratches. I have recieved many PM's on the use of the gel from CG and Mark V and it takes elbow grease, if you could only remove the spots by polishing it was compounding then polishing thus removing more paint than needed. Give the gel another shot next time.



The gel is the ONLY solution(Besides vinegar which bad spotting will laugh at) on plastic, grills, certain parts of wheels, trim etc............
 
Auto Concierge said:
If the etching is really bad, what the gel does is "Soften it up" and allows for the removal. This is especially important on the finish as then less clear is removed as if I wanted too I could sand and compound water spots easily..........................but then there goes 2-6 microns with the quickness depending on which grit is used.



Steel wool will work, but then are micro scratches. I have recieved many PM's on the use of the gel from CG and Mark V and it takes elbow grease, if you could only remove the spots by polishing it was compounding then polishing thus removing more paint than needed. Give the gel another shot next time.



The gel is the ONLY solution(Besides vinegar which bad spotting will laugh at) on plastic, grills, certain parts of wheels, trim etc............
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oh no... vinegar did NOTHING... didn't touch it. Actually... i've never found vinegar to work at all in any case for me. I need to live where you guys do to get away from this water... I despise this town anyway.
 
Have you tried this?



105WOZ16G-01.jpg




Hard Water Spot Remover for Cars & Glass – 3D Eraser
 
[quote name='Guitarist302008']No, I haven't... everyone raved about the CG's spot remover, so unfortunately I bought it.[/QUOTE]





"You can lead a horse to water................."
 
I am surprised that nobody has mentioned the fact that if your lawn sprinklers are causing water spots on your car, you should call the sprinkler compnay and have them redirect the heads so they do not spray onto the driveway or roadway...



Wait.. I just did! :madgrin:
 
Ok, tonight I decided to strip the roof of my OC to recoat it. I used Menzerna's IP with a meg's yellow pad and then Menzerna 4500 grit on a blue pad to jewel the paint a bit... MUCH more clarity. I did an IPA wipedown on the roof and then coated it, but I have one halogen... the other one is out for some reason so it was a little hard to see. It's been 2 hours since I coated it. Can I add another coat now or is it better to wait until tomorrow to do so?



I have to go and pick my wife up from work around 10 or 11 so it will have been on 3 hours... it's not raining, but there might be some dew that may get on it. Will that bother it at all or has it set long enough?



I ask about coating again just because I want to make sure that I got a good solid layer on everything. I guess tomorrow in the natural light I will be able to see it better so maybe i'll just wait until then unless you all think it's ok?
 
If you aren't 100% certain that the coating was applied without streaks, I wouldn't reapply an additional coat until you are. Wait until tomorrow, check things out better and reapply if you're in the clear.
 
David Fermani said:
If you aren't 100% certain that the coating was applied without streaks, I wouldn't reapply an additional coat until you are. Wait until tomorrow, check things out better and reapply if you're in the clear.
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I don't think there were streaks so much... I'm just wondering what the best amount of time to wait to recoat it... but I guess with 3 hours of it sitting it should be fine to drive and then tomorrow I can inspect it in the light and recoat it again just to make sure. I like to use 2 coats of the stuff. I've been recoating the car one area at a time. The front bumper came out very nice with using the 2 stage correction. Some of the bumps that were in the finish seemed to come out nicely.
 
Bringing this thread back. Obviously it's been a month. I am just not impressed with the lack of slickness of the OC any longer. The water when the side of the car is washed or has been rained on, just isn't doing any sort of beading much anymore. It's like the water is getting stuck or something. I know the OC is there because there is no wash marring, which of course I like. I also like how power lock looks, as I just put it on a customers car. A shame it doesn't have the same scratch resistant properties. How about Wolf's bodywrap? Anyone know much about that? I would just keep the OC on the areas that would get hit the most by sand, rocks, etc. I'd like some slickness and to see the water actually bead up and come off the car at least some when going down the road.
 
[quote name='Guitarist302008']How about Wolf's bodywrap? Anyone know much about that?





Wolf's Hard Body should be more scratch resistant.
 
Legacy99 said:
[quote name='Guitarist302008']How about Wolf's bodywrap? Anyone know much about that?





Wolf's Hard Body should be more scratch resistant.
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Yeah, it should... i'm looking for the slickness and looks factor though an OC just doesn't do it in the looks area. I've repolished and recoated several areas of the car, but I still just am not very happy with it.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
Ok, tonight I decided to strip the roof of my OC to recoat it. I used Menzerna's IP with a meg's yellow pad and then Menzerna 4500 grit on a blue pad to jewel the paint a bit... MUCH more clarity. I did an IPA wipedown on the roof and then coated it,
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Be careful when using Menzerna polishes. As good as they are (and I have several) whatever they use for lubrication can conceal very effectively and not come off with IPA. This will compromise OC bonding.



Best to avoid finishing with Menzerna use something like HD polish which doesn't leave anything behind.
 
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