beginning to dislike opti-coat

Guitarist302008 said:
I have ONR here... I just haven't used it yet. I don't really know why though. I had just bought some pretty good car wash and such, so I sort of wanted to use that up first.
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Which would you rather do? Continue to use up the car wash soap and deal with water spots or use ONR and not have it be an issue? I have a ton of products I'll never use up because something else came along that was enough of an improvement there isn't any good reason to use up what I already have.
 
Fallguy said:
good info. I was abut to try the OC. I never heard about water spotting issue , but I would guess we are talking about UN SOFTENED water from a hose or sprinkler or a well , ect...not rain . Can I ask why would OC be an issue because of bad water anymore than any other product ?
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It's not.





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If the car was free of water spots, why/how could they form after he OC'd the surface and not just wipe off?



I've also posted a thread about water spots, but the question seems to be that these spots come back on a sealed car, how? I thought these new polymer sealants are an actual physical barrier to clear coats...





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GoGTIgo said:
I thought these new polymer sealants are an actual physical barrier to clear coats...
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Some companies would like you to think so. They are nothing more than a very light sacrificial coating. I think you are missing the point, hard water spots occur regardless of what is on the paint. These aren't just water spots from rain. Rain is essentially distilled water, ground water is full of minerals that etch into paint.



Here's the thing guys, hard water etches GLASS. If you can find something more resistant to chemicals and the environment than anything else on your car. In my experience it has been easier to remove hard water spots from OC than glass.
 
Since I Opticoated my car I have only used ONR or Duragloss to wash my car and I haven't seen the first waterspot. I do admit that I have a water softener on my incoming water supply and didn't have any issues with waterspots before I applied Opticoat.
 
It's really a wash process issue, not a LSP or OC issue.





On that note they will all offer some variance in resistance, but at the end of the day they are all still susceptible to spotting. CQuartz tends to sheet the water off differently than most, and IMO it would probably be better against spotting simply because it doesn't leave crazy water beads on the paint like a carnauba will (varies depending on how water it hitting paint).



Here is a good video Kelly made that shows how some different coatings react. It's more about EXO, but it's interesting to see CQuartz slowly sheet the water away while some others leave tiny drops behind.



crystal coatings test - YouTube
 
Dan said:
Some companies would like you to think so. They are nothing more than a very light sacrificial coating. I think you are missing the point, hard water spots occur regardless of what is on the paint. These aren't just water spots from rain. Rain is essentially distilled water, ground water is full of minerals that etch into paint.



Here's the thing guys, hard water etches GLASS. If you can find something more resistant to chemicals and the environment than anything else on your car. In my experience it has been easier to remove hard water spots from OC than glass.
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Agree 100%. Basically what happens with sprinkler water is that the minerals left behind after it dries are going to cause problems on anything. I got a call from someone whose car is coated on one side by about a year's worth of well water from sprinklers and has pretty much turned that side nearly white. The owner almost choked when he found out what I was going to charge to go over the car with aggressive clay then compound off what was left.
 
You probably live in an industrial area, or a area that receives hard rain water. I live about 7 miles from a coal fired power plant. Probably acid rain, etc. hitting me. As much as i love the ease of use of 845, it spots heavily. It rains, and the water beads just bake on while i am at work. At home immediately wipe rain or water off. Even stranger is that 476 doesn't spot for me quite like 845 does.

I have really wanted to apply OC, but i would be in the same water spot situation you are in.
 
Scottwax said:
Agree 100%. Basically what happens with sprinkler water is that the minerals left behind after it dries are going to cause problems on anything. I got a call from someone whose car is coated on one side by about a year's worth of well water from sprinklers and has pretty much turned that side nearly white. The owner almost choked when he found out what I was going to charge to go over the car with aggressive clay then compound off what was left.
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Did the customer have you do the work or did they respray the clear at a bodyshop?





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GoGTIgo said:
Did the customer have you do the work or did they respray the clear at a bodyshop?





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He said he was taking a trip, he'd see about getting it done after he gets back. It will be an all day job. I've never seen such accumulation before.
 
ok, i'm bringing this one back a bit. 2 questions...



1. I bought some Menzerna 4500 grit polish because when I look at the paint in the mirror it almost looks dimpled I guess? Not bad, but the reflection isn't nearly as good as it could be. With OC on the car already, would this flatten this a bit more or would I need a 2000 grit or lower cut to take it completely off?



2. I sent optimum about topping OC. It was claimed that opti-seal would last for a month over OC ... any truth to this or anyone who's tried it?
 
1. What you are seeing is orange peel, and that takes wetsanding to remove.



2. I've put Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0. Can't say for sure how long it lasted over it, but the look of OS (somewhat warmer, deeper appearance) stayed around a while.
 
Scottwax said:
1. What you are seeing is orange peel, and that takes wetsanding to remove.



2. I've put Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0. Can't say for sure how long it lasted over it, but the look of OS (somewhat warmer, deeper appearance) stayed around a while.
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Oh ok... well even a couple of weeks is ok if I could get that.
 
Scottwax said:
1. What you are seeing is orange peel, and that takes wetsanding to remove.



2. I've put Opti-Seal over Opti-Coat 2.0. Can't say for sure how long it lasted over it, but the look of OS (somewhat warmer, deeper appearance) stayed around a while.
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Scott... I do know how to wetsand... but I would prefer not to have to do that if at all possible. If I were to use megs 105 with their yellow pad, would I be able to cut some of it down or does the abrasive that's being used pretty much have to be completely flat?
 
Compounds aren't stout enough to remove orange peel. Plus I would be very cautious when wetsanding a finish that wasn't designed to be wetsanded. It isn't like a custom paint job where they can put extra clear on it in anticipation of wetsanding out all the orange peel.
 
David Fermani said:
Just call Dr. G and ask him for it.
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To give you guys an idea of how bad the water is here... I ordered some chemical guys water spot remover... it didn't even TOUCH the stained glass on my friends car and also did not remove one spot on my hood from the opti-coat. Needless to say I am QUITE unimpressed.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
To give you guys an idea of how bad the water is here... I ordered some chemical guys water spot remover... it didn't even TOUCH the stained glass on my friends car and also did not remove one spot on my hood from the opti-coat. Needless to say I am QUITE unimpressed.
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How did you use it? Apply straight to your wash media and act like your polishing paint with it, working a small section with several passes. It should remove it, it's gotten off crazy spotting on OG.
 
Perfections said:
How did you use it? Apply straight to your wash media and act like your polishing paint with it, working a small section with several passes. It should remove it, it's gotten off crazy spotting on OG.
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Put it on a MF towel... applied it straight to the area and rubbed the hell out of it.... nothing :(
 
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