Well my mom got her new car. Ok it isnt "NEW" it is a 2001 chevy lumina. It has almost 19000 miles on it. It was a rental car down in arizona. I took a look in the light it has some scraches and on the hood it has some very small chips not sure if there chips or dust. The scraches are small enought to remove with scrach x. Now the only real questions i have is the wind sheild has some very very small chips that are only visible when light is on them. There to small to get fixed by glassmen and also there to many. How can i remedy this. That is really it you have given me enought guidence throght the year to know what else to do thanx.
Beginner looking to tackle water etchings
- Thread starter hkross
- Start date
imported_Brad1
New member
Bad news....you can't do anything. You have to live with it or replace the windshield.
Windshields aren't that expensive and given that you stare through it everyday it can be worth it. I have new windshields in two of my cars.
If too many chips are in your line of sight it can be dangerous andyour insurance company will often pay for a new one.
Windshields aren't that expensive and given that you stare through it everyday it can be worth it. I have new windshields in two of my cars.
If too many chips are in your line of sight it can be dangerous andyour insurance company will often pay for a new one.
Hey Brad the cheapest price I've found for a 2000 Nissan Maxima windshield is $300. Not exactly cheap but then again not too ridiculous of an amount. My auto insurance, Allstate, WILL NOT replace my windshield. I have to pay the deductible. They did pay for a chip repair though. I'm beginning to think that I'm just going to have to get used to the idea of replacing a windshield every 18 months or so. Bummer.
Small chips in glass cannot be removed and cannot be hidden either. Your choices are like brad said replce or live with it.
If you have the insurance company replace your windsheild too much they tend to raise your premiums!
The cheapest windshield I have ever had replaced was $150 for a Isuzu Trooper. Big flat glass.
The highest I ever heard of was those lumina vans or whatever by GM that have that metal stuff in it for about $1100 a pop. Big curvey glass with stuff inside it.
If you have the insurance company replace your windsheild too much they tend to raise your premiums!
The cheapest windshield I have ever had replaced was $150 for a Isuzu Trooper. Big flat glass.
The highest I ever heard of was those lumina vans or whatever by GM that have that metal stuff in it for about $1100 a pop. Big curvey glass with stuff inside it.
splash2112
New member
Once the windshield is pitted beyond repair (when you go against a strong summer afternoon sun this is dangerous but most insurance companies bicker with you about replacing for pitting)so,... ......... tell the insurance company that a rock hit it right at your driver view and it's indented (no way to repair)......most policies do not have deductibles for windhseild being damaged.....right before you go to shop.....use da hammer!
Don eventually they will get there money back from ya when they raise your premium. My insurance is USAA and I feel they are the best in the world but I am biased because I have had them a long time.
I normally wait till my inspection sticker is up before replacing a windsheild. Why pay the state more money for something you already paid for!
I normally wait till my inspection sticker is up before replacing a windsheild. Why pay the state more money for something you already paid for!
I got a small crack on the windshield of my Lexus. Amica would pay to get it fixed but if I want it replaced, I would have to pay the deductible for my comprehensive (other than collision). I think all insurance companies do it this way - they pay and waive deductible if you want it fixed but if you want it replaced, you have to pay the deductible.
Anyway, my deductible was only $200 on my insurance and I can have it replaced anywhere so I went to the dealer. It will costs $750 from them. I'm getting mine replaced this Monday and I will pay the $200. I figure it's not too bad since I don't have to deal with the minor scratches on the glass and the many little chips that I got over the years. I was going to get the glass polishing kit from Eastman for $40 anyway so now I don't need to and I figure $160 extra out of pocket for a brand new windshield is OK.
Besides, I'm dropping my insurance company to save $1000/year and going with Sears/Hartford. BTW, this does not go against your records so other insurance companies cannot raise your premium.:up
Anyway, my deductible was only $200 on my insurance and I can have it replaced anywhere so I went to the dealer. It will costs $750 from them. I'm getting mine replaced this Monday and I will pay the $200. I figure it's not too bad since I don't have to deal with the minor scratches on the glass and the many little chips that I got over the years. I was going to get the glass polishing kit from Eastman for $40 anyway so now I don't need to and I figure $160 extra out of pocket for a brand new windshield is OK.
Besides, I'm dropping my insurance company to save $1000/year and going with Sears/Hartford. BTW, this does not go against your records so other insurance companies cannot raise your premium.:up
RedlineIRL
New member
I am working on trying to remove water etchings on the hood of my Saturn Ion, and am looking for some polish and pad reccomendations that will work for tackling these. I tried getting them out using Danase Swirl Abolisher I and a LC CCS white pad 6.5" on my PC 7424, wanting to see where there least agressive method got me since they did not seem too deep. After polisihing with this combination the etch marks were gone, but to my dissapointment they reappaered after parking the car out in the sun the next day. My take is that this polish was nothing more than a filler.
Now after that experience, I am really getting frustrated and want these etch marks gone for good. I am not what I'd call a pro when it comes to using the 7424, since I have never really used it much. So I am looking to order some polishes that are fairly easy to use, have a little longer working times, and will not creative big time hazing and micromarring. I prefer to use something that has a little longer working times that way I can watch the polish break down and get an idea on when I should stop polishing. I have played with the Meguiars M205, but I didn't really like the way it worked since it uses non diminishing abrasives and is supposed to be a quick working polish.
I have been sort of looking at the Menzerna polishes, but have heard back and forth comments on other forums wether or not as to if they contain fillers (I don't want to deal with anymore so called cutting polishes that fill). What do you all think about the Menzerna polishes for somone who does not have a lot of experience with the PC7424? Do they meet the requirements for the type of polish I am looking for? If so which polishes of theirs should I look at? I am not dead set on going with the Menzerna, so if you guys have any suggestions for other polishes that sound like they will work please let me know.
I also need to get some pads too, since right now all I have are LC CCS 6.5" orange and white pads, along with 5.5" white and grey pads. Should an orange and white 5.5" LC CCS combo be able to give me enough power to get these out?
Now after that experience, I am really getting frustrated and want these etch marks gone for good. I am not what I'd call a pro when it comes to using the 7424, since I have never really used it much. So I am looking to order some polishes that are fairly easy to use, have a little longer working times, and will not creative big time hazing and micromarring. I prefer to use something that has a little longer working times that way I can watch the polish break down and get an idea on when I should stop polishing. I have played with the Meguiars M205, but I didn't really like the way it worked since it uses non diminishing abrasives and is supposed to be a quick working polish.
I have been sort of looking at the Menzerna polishes, but have heard back and forth comments on other forums wether or not as to if they contain fillers (I don't want to deal with anymore so called cutting polishes that fill). What do you all think about the Menzerna polishes for somone who does not have a lot of experience with the PC7424? Do they meet the requirements for the type of polish I am looking for? If so which polishes of theirs should I look at? I am not dead set on going with the Menzerna, so if you guys have any suggestions for other polishes that sound like they will work please let me know.
I also need to get some pads too, since right now all I have are LC CCS 6.5" orange and white pads, along with 5.5" white and grey pads. Should an orange and white 5.5" LC CCS combo be able to give me enough power to get these out?
imported_richy
New member
You mentioned that you have Megs 205. Do you have the 105? If so, use your DA with the Kevin Brown method and have a go at it. I personally use a rotary and love, love, love 105. Yes it can have a short working time although not necessarily. Research this DA method and that should do the trick for you. Use 105 and your orange pad and follow it up with 205 and the white.
RedlineIRL
New member
No, just 205 at the moment. I briefly read some on the Kevin Brown method, but it looks like these M205 and M105 have a little different learning curve compared to typical diminishing abrasives. I tried some with a hand application, and it just seemed to work too quick even by hand and could keep on going without drying out. I just didn't really like the feel of it at all, and don't really feel too confident about using it on a PC with my skill experience so far. Not saying it's a bad product, but I don't feel comfortable with it. I'd just kind of feel more confident about using a product that I could easily tell when it starts to break down to get an idea on where I am at in the polishing process
Wat about the Poorboys SSR polishes, do they contain fillers? Are they a good polish? From what I have read the are supposed to be user friendly
I wish you would try the 105 along with the KBM. You'll never go back to the old way. Super results and fast. Get a practice hood or a beater and try it out. Seems like you are really against polishes that have fillers. Well so am I, just do a mineral sprits or alcohol wipe down, inspect and lsp.
If you are still uncomfortable using 105, you can use either Optimum Spray Compound and Spray Polish or Wolfgangs Twins which is made by Menzerna.
imported_Flash Gordon
New member
If you want to jack your paint up even worse then it already is then by all means use Poorboys World SSR line of product :-t
Megs 105 or Menzerna Power Gloss will give you the best results :wizard:
imported_RANDAL
New member
Remember this site is somewhat a division of Megs.
As for myself I only use Poorboys World Products. Real bad swirls Id start with 2.5 and follow with SSR! from Poorboys. Never have tried the 205 or 105 from Megs. Poorboys should be similiar and will be more user freindly. PBs products were developed for use indoors or out. Lots of users in the high humidity areas such as Florida.
Some here have used the products, but would rather use a nationally known/marketed product. A few have had missed results and others have had great results. Its easier to use when starting out versus someone who has been running a rotary for 20 plus years with other brands of products.
Need more info search for the Poorboys World products and maybe even give the owner a call to see what he recommends.
As for myself I only use Poorboys World Products. Real bad swirls Id start with 2.5 and follow with SSR! from Poorboys. Never have tried the 205 or 105 from Megs. Poorboys should be similiar and will be more user freindly. PBs products were developed for use indoors or out. Lots of users in the high humidity areas such as Florida.
Some here have used the products, but would rather use a nationally known/marketed product. A few have had missed results and others have had great results. Its easier to use when starting out versus someone who has been running a rotary for 20 plus years with other brands of products.
Need more info search for the Poorboys World products and maybe even give the owner a call to see what he recommends.
bmw5541
New member
I too, would encourage you to try Megs M105. It really is easy to use, although it does produce a lot of dust. It just downright works!!!
If you really don't want to use the Megs twins, I would also recommend you try Optimum Hyper Compound Spray. I have not yet tried it out, but everything that I have heard about it, makes it seem pretty easy with not much of a learning curve.
As for pads, I would use 5.5" pads. Try the LC H2O Cayan and Tangerine pads. They work well with both the 105 and Hyper Compound.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
ancing Dot:
If you really don't want to use the Megs twins, I would also recommend you try Optimum Hyper Compound Spray. I have not yet tried it out, but everything that I have heard about it, makes it seem pretty easy with not much of a learning curve.
As for pads, I would use 5.5" pads. Try the LC H2O Cayan and Tangerine pads. They work well with both the 105 and Hyper Compound.
Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
ancing Dot:imported_CH.Detailing
New member
Please explain.
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
There are many ways to tackle this problem your having, one is wash your car then use a clay bar to see if it helps lossen a few of them and use some white vinager on them also. You might get something off, but if they been there awhile it doesn't look like they will come off that way. Very fine swirls can be removed by polishing alone but those deeper swirls, water spots and the light scratches typically requires a three-step process : compound, polish and finish procedure or a Four step process by adding wet sanding to the 3 step one procedure. Menzerna and Meguiar's products are found to be the best around products to use when trying to do correction work on your vehicle and I always recommend to do a IPA wipe down ( 50/50 ). But If its very extensive then you have to go with machine polishing or wetsanding as only choice. Maybe someone here that might be in your area might help out.
PB should be similar but you have never used 105/205? I have not used PB polishes in 3 years, I can personally guarantee you that SSR/2.5 is nothing like
M105/205.
RedlineIRL
New member
I may just do that, I am just kind of anxious and want to correct these as soon as I can. It's not like they can get any worse after everything has been cleaned and polished previously, right?
What are the Wolgang Twins? I'm not real familiar with their products and google didn't really give much info
What is wrong with the Poorboys SSR polishes? I was considering SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. I don't really see how either is going to mess anything since both have less cut than 105. Could you explain? I am curious
Have you found any of the SSRs to contain real heavy fillers? I don't have bad swirls, just etchings that should have never happened on a car that was waxed with 845 a couple weeks prior. If I do go the SSR route, does 2.5 leave much hazing? Does it finish out fine going from 2.5 to 1, or is it better to go from 2.5, 2, and then 1?
I have washed, a couple times, tried the vinegar, polishing with a cleaner polish, and a lighter machine polish with the 7424. They are deposits on top of the surface, but what looks like more of a type II as seen here
I'll see what I can do first, and if I could use some help hopefully someone is neearby
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
You can try the ScratchX, but to me wetsanding then following up with a compound then proper polishing steps will help/remove it for you. Let us know how it turns out..........RedlineIRL