Beginner looking to tackle water etchings

RedlineIRL said:
IWhat is wrong with the Poorboys SSR polishes? I was considering SSR 2.5 and SSR 1. I don't really see how either is going to mess anything since both have less cut than 105. Could you explain? I am curious
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You tell me and we will both know. I was sent samples of ssr1, ssr2, ssr2.5 back when they changed there formula. To make a long story short, I used these products on a black Mercedes. Each step I took the paint got progressivly worse. I finally had to abandoned the ssr and go back and redue the entire car using Megs/Menzerna :wizard:

As the old saying goes, maybe I got a bad batch :rolleyes:

Some more food for thought. When is the last time you have seen a profesioinal detailer use the SSR line? I can answer that in case you can't NEVER :o

BTW. No direct links to competeing forums. I'm sure you understand Da Rules!
 
zoomzoom mazda5 said:
You can try the ScratchX, but to me wetsanding then following up with a compound then proper polishing steps will help/remove it for you. Let us know how it turns out..........RedlineIRL
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ScratchX did work, but slowly. The ScrtchX was creating micromarring, so either way machine polshing is a must. It'd take forever to do the whole hood by hand.

Flash Gordon said:
You tell me and we will both know. I was sent samples of ssr1, ssr2, ssr2.5 back when they changed there formula. To make a long story short, I used these products on a black Mercedes. Each step I took the paint got progressivly worse. I finally had to abandoned the ssr and go back and redue the entire car using Megs/Menzerna :wizard:

As the old saying goes, maybe I got a bad batch :rolleyes:

Some more food for thought. When is the last time you have seen a profesioinal detailer use the SSR line? I can answer that in case you can't NEVER :o

BTW. No direct links to competeing forums. I'm sure you understand Da Rules!
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If they are no good, then no thanks. I've read reviews in the past from others and I just never recalled anyone ever having trouble with them. How far back did they change the formua? Did it just create more swirls and hazing progressing on?

You don't see too many professionals using the PC as their main machine for correction either.;) But it's all I have, and I am no professional. How are the Menzerna polishes when it comes to working times, do they take a little while to break down and work fine with a 7424? Or are they more intended for rotary use

Oops, taken down
 
Are you thinking pro's are decreasing rotary use for PC's or the fact there are a lot more pro's (people doing correction for a living) that start with PC's?
 
I think the M105/205 and KBM changed the way a lot of detailing professionals corrected paint. If you look at Todd's post on using M105, it's clear that the old 3-4 steps with a rotary are no longer the norm. I worked for a while with a used car lot / bodyshop and the owner - while a talented paint and bodyman, was still doing the 3M 3 step to get cars ready for sale. It wasn't that long ago.

So what's the best if both methods will eventually get the desired results? To me, it's the one with less steps, and less products to buy.
 
So I have been doing some reading on the KBM. It seems that the key thing is to prime the pad with product, not to the point where it's clogging the pad, and then add the product itself. When using this method, are flat faced pads an absolute must? I have LC CCS pads, will they work?

It seems that a lot of people are able to take the M105 and finish it of without using a finishing polish. Say that 105 did leave hazing and micromarring behind, do I need to use the same method with 205 on a white pad to get it finished right?
 
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