Are Waxes & Sealants Even Necessary??

This is a very interesting thread. I use a spray wax after every wash or every other wash but now that its raining I get stubborn grime and spots after a wash I think it might be my spray wax…….
 
David Fermani said:
It's designed to get your mind thinking a little outside the norm for sure.
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David, i read that thread were you maintained your work car with just that spray wax. Do you take care of your other cars with that spray wax too are you still using the spray wax?
 
I'm kinda on and off with AM Hydro Shine at the moment as I'm constantly testing new products. Great product though. I've been using it for many years.
 
I've been using Megs Ultimate Spray wax exclusively on my truck and wife's van for over a year now....as well as many of my customers. I can't tell the difference other than I'm done faster. The paint beads and it's not falling off. What more can you ask for?
 
What is Hydro Shine??? Link to the product???? Thanks





David Fermani said:
I'm kinda on and off with AM Hydro Shine at the moment as I'm constantly testing new products. Great product though. I've been using it for many years.
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I like to tell my customers wax is like sun tan lotion to the body the more u apply the better never wait till it is all gone keep a constant coat on. Rember it is cheaper to keep wax on then to repaint. U can not convince me wax is not important. Wax will help prevent fading and oxidation. Take two of the same make and model leave out in the elements take one car and wax consistently. never wax the other one see witch one goes bad quicker. For example take a bare paint job section and a realy protected paint job section and put degresser on one and see witch one streakes faster both will, but u will have a lot more time to get it off the protected finsh without harm.'
 
WOW. A lot of different opinions from a lot of experienced pro's and some not so much. As a guy that just does this as a hobby I don't know much about UV protection and layering etc., I basically want my cars to look great and if the paint holds up longer without failure then thats a plus but if not then I enjoyed the shine while it lasted. I read all the hype from the various wax and sealant companies but I basically look for products that are 1.easy to use 2. last a reasonal length of time. 3.don't cost so much that I have to mortage the home to purchase. So keep up the discussion as David has again challenged us to think outside the box as they say.
 
I'm sorry but to ME, sealants and waxes are 80% beauty and 20% protection.



I've worked on cars that have clear coat failure and have been sealed twice a year. On the other hand, I've detailed cars that have nothing done to them in 15 years and come out looking great.
 
Justin Murphy said:
I'm sorry but to ME, sealants and waxes are 80% beauty and 20% protection.



I've worked on cars that have clear coat failure and have been sealed twice a year. On the other hand, I've detailed cars that have nothing done to them in 15 years and come out looking great.
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This then has more to do with a factory paint job than whether or not it has been waxed. Clearcoat failure may have more to do with bad UV absorbers applied in the factory.



Anthony
 
Anthony Orosco said:
This then has more to do with a factory paint job than whether or not it has been waxed. Clearcoat failure may have more to do with bad UV absorbers applied in the factory.



Anthony
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Totally agree. I still to this day wonder just how well waxes and sealant actually protect the paint. I know they help it stay clean and assist in cleaning.
 
IME even quality OE paintjobs can fail if not properly taken care of. My '93 Audi V8 was considered a high-end car in its day, but its paint has considerable damage (the kind you can only fix with a paintgun) from years of substandard care. OTOH, first-gen Mazda RX-7s and single stage Rhodium Silver Jags like mine were both notorious for rapid paint failure, yet my RX-7 and XJS still look showroom because they were always well taken care of.



Actually, seems like every time I buy a used vehicle, it has serious paint and trim problems, yet my (often older, higher mileage) bought-new vehicles don't have any problems like that at all. I can't help but think there's a correlation there :think:
 
Accumulator said:
IME even quality OE paintjobs can fail if not properly taken care of. My '93 Audi V8 was considered a high-end car in its day, but its paint has considerable damage (the kind you can only fix with a paintgun) from years of substandard care. OTOH, first-gen Mazda RX-7s and single stage Rhodium Silver Jags like mine were both notorious for rapid paint failure, yet my RX-7 and XJS still look showroom because they were always well taken care of.



Actually, seems like every time I buy a used vehicle, it has serious paint and trim problems, yet my (often older, higher mileage) bought-new vehicles don't have any problems like that at all. I can't help but think there's a correlation there :think:
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I had a co-worker bring his base/clear black Jag to my place for a full exterior detail. The rest of the car was ok, but he had advanced clear coat failure on the entire hood. This was a couple of years ago. Doing a few internet searches brought up quite a few complaints regarding CC failure on Jags.



On topic, having the "sacrificial layer" of an LSP on the paint does help. Especially if the LSP is better at releasing dirt than the clear coat it sits on.
 
SuperBee364- The old Jag Rhodium Silver was so bad that (according to my Jag dealer) they quit using it shortly after my car was built because they were having so many problems with it. I have numerous sections that were obviously repainted at the factory (and one more done presumably post-importation that I finally had to have redone)...one seriously jacked paintjob before it even hit the showroom...just figures that it'd end up being my keeper car :rolleyes:



I shudder to think what it'd look like without my attentions.



Justin Murphy said:
So is an LSP protecting on a chemical or physical level?



Is it like sunscreen or a clear bra? LOL
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Both, at least if you're using an LSP with UV-blocking agents.



Another example of why this LSPing is necessary- my new '00 beater-Tahoe's wiper arms are oxidized all the way thorugh their finish; I can compound away until I hit bare metal without effecting an improvement. And the plastic cowling under them is equally trashed. Too much UV exposure, and stains from bird-bombs/bugs that ate right into the material.
 
Detailer's Pride Poli-Coat has really impressed me. Really nice wet glow and pretty durable. Recently detailed a Jaguar I had applied Poli-Coat to in April and it was still beading very well (I don't wash this car, based on all the dressing on the wheels, I am guessing the dealer washes it), looked great and had decent slickness.
 
I dont know how many times I have come back to read this thread due to my troubles finding the right LSP. I find my self pondering these same questions all the time:



Are waxes or sealants even necessary with today’s modern clearcoats? If so, how?



Are they adding longevity to its composition? Hence feeding, coating, sealing…



Are they eliminating UV rays from fading the basecoat?



Are they eliminating acids from rain, birds and insects from etching into the clearcoat?



Do they create a sacrificial barrier that eliminates surface marring due to slickness? Even though initial slickness falls off almost initially after the 1st few washes, does that mean this so-called protective characteristic has diminished too?



Is beading indicative of protection? If so at what capacity?



Its hard for me to comprehend this after so many years of detain my own vehicles but its hard to dismiss.



IMO the most important factors that prolong the life of the painted finish are:

1. Like previously mentioned on this thread the quality of the paint and application at the factory during the manufacturing process of the vehicles.

2. Car being kept in a garage.

3. Frequent washing with proper technique to remove dirt and contaminants before they can bond or damage the finish.



Next sealant up to bat for me is Optimum Opti Seal I am hoping this sealant can hit a homerun...I really look forward to applying it in minutes and not having to wipe off or buff because it flashes.
 
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