Acid for water spots?

I've use BAF/PRO's Water Spot Remover, which is an acid, for water spots on windows. It's not meant for paint though.



I've heard of people doing a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water to remove water spots from the paint but I have never tried it myself. I'm sure a system like PRO's Fallout Remover or Valugard's ABC system would take water spots off paint if vinegar works counting it's a weaker and more diluted acid (Acetic in vinegar. Oxalic and Hydrochloric (muriatic) in the other two systems respectively).
 
I have done it on glass with success, but never on paint. I have heard of detailers that I know in Murray, KY using acid-based wheel cleaners on paint to remove water spots, but again I have never done this myself.
 
Distilled white vinegar is usually about 5% acidic, so diluting it 50/50 will make it relatively weak for set in water spots.



I've even gone as far as using german vinegar that's 25% acidic diluted 50/50 and it didn't even leave a mark.
 
"Hard-water deposits are alkaline, which means that an acid cleaner is the best approach for cleaning them. Phosphoric acid works well and is safe for most surfaces. If you buy cleaners containing phosphoric acid in a grocery store, it will likely contain about 4 percent to 6 percent acid. You can purchase lime scale removers at janitorial supply stores that contain 8 percent to 12 percent acid, which will get the job done faster. A higher concentration of acid is safe on most household surfaces as long as you rinse the surface to remove all traces of the acid once the cleaning is complete. You should let acid sit for a few minutes after you apply it to let it work. Tough hard-water deposits may take more than one application."
 
03Black1.8t said:
has anyone used this c-45. It sounds like its a thicker gel and you just apply it with a sponge. Let it sit on for a min. or 2 and wash off. My hood and roof have bad water spots. Straight distilled vinegar did not work.
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I used it before and it isn't like a thick gel but it's a thicker liquid than just water... maybe a little tiny bit thicker than milk. I applyed it with a extra wash mitt and put the stuff in a spray bottle.
 
I use Acid base cleaner to get water spots. They are fine. The dilution ratio is pretty high. Something like 1:10 - 1:15. They get job done quickly. Very effrective in remove water spots in crevices and cracks. Just use a brush and quickly wipe off.

WARNING: DO NOT LET THE ACID TOUCH ANY FLOOR TILES. IT WILL PERMANENTLY DISCOLOR THE TILES.
 
Hydroflouric wheel acid should be avoided totally as it can kill you!



Other "safe" wheel acids can be used on paint CAREFULLY, like Poorboys wheel cleaner which is a water-based acid, but even these should be used on paint with caution. Make sure the surface is always wet and dilute the wheel acid and then wash and rinse a panel at a time with the wheel acid.



Hydroflouric acids may not cause damage that can be seen right away but some years, perhaps less, down the road you will see the damage in clear coat failure. Basically the acid will begin to effect the clear coat the instant it touches the paint you just may not see it right away.



ValuGards ABC system is the best and SAFEST way to go.



Anthony
 
I usually can't dry my car fast enough to prevent spotting (even in Florida "humiture"). Going back over the car with a QD and MF cloth after drying not only takes the remaining spotting off, but perks up the gloss a bit, too.



Windows get a dose of a white vinegar moistened MF towel to finish them off.



I'm concerned about how the acid (vinegar is acetic acid, or the phosphoric acid mentioned above) might attack waxes or polymers. Anyone?
 
Anthony Orosco said:
Hydroflouric wheel acid should be avoided totally as it can kill you!



Other "safe" wheel acids can be used on paint CAREFULLY, like Poorboys wheel cleaner which is a water-based acid, but even these should be used on paint with caution. Make sure the surface is always wet and dilute the wheel acid and then wash and rinse a panel at a time with the wheel acid.



Hydroflouric acids may not cause damage that can be seen right away but some years, perhaps less, down the road you will see the damage in clear coat failure. Basically the acid will begin to effect the clear coat the instant it touches the paint you just may not see it right away.



ValuGards ABC system is the best and SAFEST way to go.



Anthony
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I guess I will just have to deal with the spots. I dont want to mess anything up and have to pay for it down the road. :sadpace:
 
Arved said:
I usually can't dry my car fast enough to prevent spotting (even in Florida "humiture"). Going back over the car with a QD and MF cloth after drying not only takes the remaining spotting off, but perks up the gloss a bit, too.



Windows get a dose of a white vinegar moistened MF towel to finish them off.



I'm concerned about how the acid (vinegar is acetic acid, or the phosphoric acid mentioned above) might attack waxes or polymers. Anyone?
Click to expand...



Using vinegar on the windows should not be a problem. Just avoid overspray onto the paint. Most acids will weaken and eventually remove any sealants or waxes. Phosphoric would probably remove them more quickly than vinegar. Phosphoric will etch/pit uncoated metal.



Isopropal alcohol (IPA) is often the preferred way to remove waxes/sealants when you want to strip everything and start from scratch without harming the finish or any coated/uncoated metal/plastic parts.
 
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