99 vw passat meets barrys pc7424!!!!!

Barry Theal

New member
PLEASE READ THIS WRITE UP!





Decontamination- Meg APC. Claymore claybar. mothers detailer spray for lube.



exterior - sanding pc7424, meg solo backing plate, 3m interface pad 3m 1500 grit sand paper

compounding- pc7424 meg solo backing plate edge 6 inch yellow foam ardex 1000

polish- pc7424 meg solo backing plate edge green 6 inch foam, ardex 1500

sealent- pc7424 meg solo backing plate edge white 6 inch foam with ardex nano sealent.

wax applied by hand 2x ardex topaz.

and lots of 91% ipa i went threw 3 bottles on this one!!!!!





Ok here goes, this client is a wholesaler and a new client who asked me about a full exterior paint correction. This guy buys cars from one auction cleans them and flips them at another. now to make along story short he contacted me threw autopia after seeing some of my work. BIG PROPS to autopia. The exterior of this car was horible shape. so a full wet sand was gonna be involed here. i knew ahead of time that the rear bumper is going to be repainted this week so he told me to not worry about it.

Now over the last 11 years i have been doing all my correction work with a rotary some wool and compound, then rotary chasing holograms and a foam pad and polish. this is what i like to call the traditional way!



Now onto some before pics.



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I couldn't really get in the before pictures the thickness of orange peel in the paint. the whole car had been repainted at one point. Now normally i would wetsanded this car then get the rotary out and begin the compounding. over the last six months i have heard all about the porter cable pulling out major defects!! the kevin brown method! so what i wanted to do was truely test this method. so i thought to myself how can this be done!



the process



Sanding- Dry sanded the whole car with porter cable. i used a the 5/8 spindle adapter which allowed me to use the mequiars solo 6 inch backing plate. this relieve any pressure i put down during the sanding to help prevent deep spots. then i attached a 6 3m da interface pad to help with the bolding line contours while sanding. then i attached a 6 inch 3m 1500 grit paper!



Here is my setup.



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Now at this point, i began to dry sand the etire car with the porter cable! this whole process took about roughly 2 hours! i ran the speed a 2. i tried to go a little faster, but i found i started to get pigtails. so i slowed it back down to 2 again. the whole car took about 10 sheets of paper. i noticed it was faster and easier to switch paper. this prevents dust and dirt build up which in return prevents pigtails. here some action shots!



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[IMG]http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr202/barrytheal/passat%2099/DSCF3660.jpg



Now at this point the car was sanded here are the pics some pics.



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now at this point i used the porter cable and a yellow 6 inch edge foam pad! with ardex 1000 compound. the characteristics of this compound is is heavier then m105. although it is not a water based compound like m105. the main abrasive product in it is alumina. i found that using ardex 1000 on a da had more play in the product. now this would allow me to use it in the traditional way and not the kevin brown method. now i would like to thank kevin for proving to me that the pc can be a defect killer, but at this point i just work the product into the hood with lost of down pressure for several passes the i lightened up on the down pressure and this was the results after to 91% ipa wipedown!



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Here is a close up with the camera flash on the side the was tested. here you can see the clarity and depth i got after ardex 1000 and edge yellow foam pad.



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NOw at this point i went around the car which took about 5 more hours. which included this step and another with the edge 6 inch green pad. for the second step i used ardex 1500. i noticed for a body shop safe polishing compound it was a little oilybut with a good alchohal wipe it finsihed down very nicely!



here are a few pics, take notice how perfect the camera flash is. beside a few isolated scratches that couldn't be removed this car finished down absoulutley perfect!



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then i topped it with ardex's new nano sealent and finished it down with ardex topaz carnuba wax with really made it look wet.



i have some finished pics but it was rainy so your gonna get some beaded reflections. lol i ll update the thread tomarrow if the sun is out i still have it till monday night!



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now threw this all i found that the porter cable is the defect killer and not the m105/205 combo. now by no means am i trying to trash those to products. nor am i trying to promote ardex. what i wanted to do was to see if it was the product or the technigue! anyway thanks for reading this ill post some sun shots if its out tomarrow! so there ya go this whole car was corrected with a pc!!!!! I would like to personally thanks kevin brown for showing me that a pc can do more then polish a car. although i didn't use your method entirely. you inspired me to attempt this. So THANKS KEVIN! :bigups

anyway thanks for reading god bless!
 
Mr. Theal! You outdid yourself!! Good heavens, can you imagine the owner of a car coming in to oversee the project during that drysanding step!!! You'd have to clean up some poo off of your shop floor....:)



I can't wait to see some sun shots but I think the weather looks to be rather rainy this week? Anyway...amazing work Barry...you're gonna have to show me where to buy the balls I'll need to do some drysanding in the future ;)
 
Polished&Waxed said:
How did you get this client?



bufferbarry said:
PLEASE READ THIS WRITE UP!



Ok here goes, this client is a wholesaler and a new client who asked me about a full exterior paint correction. This guy buys cars from one auction cleans them and flips them at another. now to make along story short he contacted me threw autopia after seeing some of my work. BIG PROPS to autopia. T



10 character min
 
Excellent work Barry!!!!!!



Do you have an Air comp? You also may wanna pick up an air sander too as it will make it go faster and easier. You need a 3/32 drive for wet/dry sanding.
 
Here's my question--is the client actually able to recoup the expense of a correction/detail that thorough??? I mean, if it's at auction, that's a big expense to be taking off of the bottom line.



The work is amazing, I just wonder if it matters at an auction.



That dry sanding is gnarly. I'd be terrified to try that. Awesome skills, there, Barry.:woohoo:
 
Wish the photos were better to really see, maybe that will come with the sun shots?

I am curious with all that dry sanding how much clear was taken off from start to finish?



I was thinking this process would be a great combo for highly oxidized boats!



Cheers,

GREG
 
Polished&Waxed said:
why not wet sand it with the pc, same method?



i tried to wetsand first with the d/a it was taking to long, so i went to dry sanding , and to be honest i literlly couldn't believe how fast the sand marks came out. and the 5/8 th adapter can be bought from a lot of places. just look around mine was 3 dollars at a hardware store.



rydawg said:
Excellent work Barry!!!!!!



Do you have an Air comp? You also may wanna pick up an air sander too as it will make it go faster and easier. You need a 3/32 drive for wet/dry sanding.

yeah ryan i have a old school 80 gallon curtis compressor that will run anything. i need to get a good d/a i have a nice snapon 3 inch spot da i use for headlights. i have been looking long and hard for a good finishing da. I used the porter cable on this so i can say the whole car was truely corrected with a porter cable. thanks for all the support and suggestions. you have been a big help! i can't exsplain how much. hell just by telling me about those great micro surface pads!!! thanks again





gamby said:
Here's my question--is the client actually able to recoup the expense of a correction/detail that thorough??? I mean, if it's at auction, that's a big expense to be taking off of the bottom line.



The work is amazing, I just wonder if it matters at an auction.



That dry sanding is gnarly. I'd be terrified to try that. Awesome skills, there, Barry.:woohoo:



gamby here is how the wholesale thing works most of the time. a wholesaler will either hustle cars from one auction to the next or what he will do is get in good with a dealership and by like ten of there used tradeins like a bulk order. some good some bad. some he won't want and some he will. so if done right some cars will make a ton of money and others will not. but your not looking at it per car your looking at it in the big picture. its all about moving inventory. so was it worth it for him to pay me to do this. yes. now here is why. as a detailer you look at every imperfection and bad paint job and say what a hack. now as a dealer you look at something and say that will fly. detailers really give the consumer a lot of credit when a consumer looks at a car. we see people like rydawg ricrack do these crazy *** details, and taking them to extreame and beyond. not what you got to understand is there getting paid very well to cater to a certain clientele. now as for me i have worked on high end stuff before, but alot of my market in my area is lower end details. auction stuff and what not. now at the same time i really focus on my non dealer work and really try and educatee them on what i can do. many people from my exsperiance don't care about swirls they just want a clean shiny car.its almost as if people have begun to accept clearcoat is always swirls now us as a detailer need to educate them and play our market to make money. im not in this for bragging rights. point blank im in this for the money. and right now my market is truthfully more volume then perfection. which really sucks for me because, i love to perfect a car. but look at it this way the owner of joe shmoe car wash down the street can detail a car for 200.00 dollars and waste time paying someone chemicals and all that. now we know the car is hacked up and usally the customer is happy . now why would he waste his time doing all this when he could run 10 cars threw a car wash at 20$ a car and do absoulty nothing. he plays his market i play mine. so was it worth with for the dealer. yes if you look outside the box.



Greg Nichols said:
Wish the photos were better to really see, maybe that will come with the sun shots?

I am curious with all that dry sanding how much clear was taken off from start to finish?



I was thinking this process would be a great combo for highly oxidized boats!



Cheers,

GREG



i wish i could have gotton better one to but it is still raining here. the car do look great. now as far as how much clear was removed. lets say i took off alot. but keep in mind this whole car was painted at different times. i know this because of color matching. its funny because both painters left a ton of orange peel. so sanding was something that already needed to be done. oh as for heavy oxidized boats. i wouldn't recomend dry sanding, every try and get a pig tail out of gel coat. what you wanna do is wetsand it with 2000 grit on a d/a the wetsand with 3000 grit and bring it to a shine then use a rotary.. thanks for your input.
 
no the paper just wasn't sanding like a wetsand paper that you would apply by hand. i found that drysanding really did the trick fast. and i really can't exspress how easy the sand marks came out. i tried a spot with rotary and it came out lightning fast and a pc they came out fast with lots of down pressure! and finished damn near flawless!
 
eric i would say it took all about twelve hours. now keep in mind im a rotary guy! i always finish down with a rotary so this was a first for me a pc. i corrected a whole car from sanding up with it. i was impressed by the porter cable! this was a fun project to try lol!
 
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