2002 Maxima-113,000 miles for $8500

G35stilez said:
Maxima is a great car, Scott. The paint sucks though. Expect the nose to be absolutely sand-blasted. The engine is world-class and never dies. It handles nice and IMO, looks very sharp.
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Err...paint sucks? Got 70k on mine and there is nothing excessive about the paint wear.
 
WilliamHBonney said:
Whats your price range Scott?
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Trying to keep it under $15,000. I have two in college right now, plus at some point I need to get my umbilical hernia fixed and my deductible is $2500.



Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, what kind of deal was there on that '06? You would still have the remains of the 100K warranty.
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Honestly, the car looked a little beat for only 30,000 miles. Smoked in too, I saw a couple areas with cigarette burns.



Not sure why Texas law is the way it is concerning rentals if your car is totaled. They should at least be required to pay for one until you get a check. Doesn't help that I am dealing with Allstate. Third time I've been hit by one of their policy holders and each time they drag their feet. First time was one some clown blew through a red to "not get stuck in traffic", which really backfired on him. Totaled my 1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham (crushed velour interior!) that I had swapped a 455 into about two months prior. :mad: Despite the police report (it happened when I was still living in Arizona), two witnesses that said he ran a light, it was several days before they even admitted responsibility-but they did get me into a rental with a couple days. Took more than 2 weeks to get a check though. 2nd time, someone slid into my car in a parking lot on a rare Texas icy day. Estimate was just under $400 but as usual, it took forever. They told me they would mail a check but I told them I would pick it up at their office. I show up and they said it would be a while before they'd have it ready, so I let my kids (who were around 1 and 3 at the time) run around and generally tear up their waiting area. Had a check in 45 minutes. :lol
 
Scottwax said:
Trying to keep it under $15,000. I have two in college right now, plus at some point I need to get my umbilical hernia fixed and my deductible is $2500.







Honestly, the car looked a little beat for only 30,000 miles. Smoked in too, I saw a couple areas with cigarette burns.



Not sure why Texas law is the way it is concerning rentals if your car is totaled. They should at least be required to pay for one until you get a check. Doesn't help that I am dealing with Allstate. Third time I've been hit by one of their policy holders and each time they drag their feet. First time was one some clown blew through a red to "not get stuck in traffic", which really backfired on him. Totaled my 1977 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham (crushed velour interior!) that I had swapped a 455 into about two months prior. :mad: Despite the police report (it happened when I was still living in Arizona), two witnesses that said he ran a light, it was several days before they even admitted responsibility-but they did get me into a rental with a couple days. Took more than 2 weeks to get a check though. 2nd time, someone slid into my car in a parking lot on a rare Texas icy day. Estimate was just under $400 but as usual, it took forever. They told me they would mail a check but I told them I would pick it up at their office. I show up and they said it would be a while before they'd have it ready, so I let my kids (who were around 1 and 3 at the time) run around and generally tear up their waiting area. Had a check in 45 minutes. :lol
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I understand. College isnt fun to pay for, I know I have $45k in loans to pay back. I love my Maxima. Only thing that ever went wrong I caused except the exhaust pipe just rusted through. I kinda like the noise, sounds strong without being ricey
 
Scottwax, the Maxima is an excellent car overall. I used to own one till it got wecked by a looney in a 7 car collision. The car was a 99 year with 185K miles on it. Paint is on the soft side since it chips easily. The engine is built to last. This goes with the interior as well. After all the years I had it for, there was hardly any signs of wear. As for obtaining parts, you can get them cheap online. The only thing I added to the car was an improved rear anti swaybar and changed the shocks after 95K miles.
 
I will say yes that is true the paint is soft. Damn near my whole car has been repainted and I had them paint with a CC so it doesnt chip at all anymore.
 
Too me I hate cars that have over a 100,000 mile's That where the expensive fix's are. I already bought to many cars that had over 100,000 and always needing to fix them. That's why I bought the 04 G35 with less then 40,000. No problems what so ever.
 
Scottwax said:
Absolutely no way am I buying any of those domestics you mentioned. I've detailed enough of them to know the interiors don't hold up well and while the drivetrains are very reliable, the build quality (as in panel fit, interior parting lines, etc) are still not in the same league as most imports.
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Scott,

I completely agree. Detailing cars gives you the chance to really check out the quality of a vehicle. I share the same feelings as you do. It's one of the biggest things I've learned and from now on I'll never buy a "cheap" car. I grew up in a GM family and I'll just leave it at that. I now drive a Toyota for my work truck :) .
 
Scottwax said:
.................I show up and they said it would be a while before they'd have it ready, so I let my kids (who were around 1 and 3 at the time) run around and generally tear up their waiting area. Had a check in 45 minutes. :lol
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That's a classic :xyxthumbs



I thought your older son was going in the USAF, did plans change? Is the settlement for your back separate from what they're going to pay on the car?
 
Eliot Ness said:
That's a classic :xyxthumbs



I thought your older son was going in the USAF, did plans change? Is the settlement for your back separate from what they're going to pay on the car?
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My older son went back to college instead of enlisting. His vision isn't good enough for him to fly and that is what he really wanted to do.



The property damage (my car) and personal injury claims are seperate. Their final offer for my car is $4135, even with the $1500 I put into it this summer. Still about $400-500 low, IMO for the condition the car was in but now that they aren't paying for a rental and it is coming out of my pocket; if I drag it out to get more money, the rental will eat it up anyway.



2002 Maxima SE-I agree, it looks really nice. Too bad he didn't include his location, Texas is a huge state!



Anyway, I took the '02 SE for a test drive. Definitely has some balls! Feels real tight, brand new 17" Yokohama 520s, interior is mint-usually a good sign since those anal enough to keep the interior up are usually good about keeping the whole car up. Plus, the interior is cloth which I actually prefer-at least from a wear standpoint. Also has HIDs so if it doesn't have the retrofit to prevent theft, I'll have to look into taking care of that if I buy the car.



Looked at a lower mileage '01 today but it was a smoker's car. Several cigarette burns in the upholstry so I'll pass. Paint looked really good though.
 
Before you buy get a carfax on it. Especially with that kind of mileage. I have never had a car with more the 80,000 but lots of people drive car will over 100,000 mile. I think that you should be able to get a better price. That car was not all the expense new.



Good luck.
 
If it was me Id get the Sonata. By me a o6 Sonata v6 with a sunroof goes for 13,400.00 with 24-28000 miles on it . A used 07 v6 is advertised for 15800.00 with 16000 miles on it, and they have quiet a few of them . Because its used you lose the 100,000 power train but you get the 5 year 60,000 bumper to bumper. All the cars are v6s, alloy wheels, sunroof, no leather. These are advertise prices . Maybe you can get some money of. I assume that if you can get this price in the Chicago area, you can also get the same price in the Dallas area.
 
Scott, If you are getting an A33 Maxima, ask about the following:



a) Oil Burning (As others have said, VQs have a tendency to burn oil and I rejected an '03 for that very reason (overfilled crankcase to compensate) )

b) Wind Noise TSB (There will be wind noise eminating from the rear vent windows if this has not been done)

c) Hood Vibration TSB (Hood has a tendency to "dance" at 65mph or faster)

d) Accelerator bump stop TSB (If this has not been done, the car will go into "limp mode")

e) Low Beams: D2R HID, High Beams: 9005 Halogen. Get some security bolts for your headlights ASAP to keep people from stealing them.

f) Brake vibration TSB (I had 2 SETS of rotors replaced on my '02). My front rotors were toasted like you would not believe. Can be remedied with different pads and Brembo Blanks.

g) Since you have rain/snow in some parts of TX, replace the Bridgestone RE92s ASAP. Those are the WORST tires aside from some Goodyears when the weather turns ugly.



If you want more info, PM me.
 
tabinha said:
Before you buy get a carfax on it. Especially with that kind of mileage. I have never had a car with more the 80,000 but lots of people drive car will over 100,000 mile. I think that you should be able to get a better price. That car was not all the expense new.



Good luck.
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When I sold my Celicas (I had a '79 and an '85), both were well passed 200,000 miles and my Accord had 280,285 miles on it when I sold it. You maintain cars properly and the drivetrain will last well past 200,000 on most cars. I checked on Consumer Reports for the reliability rankings and the Maxima is rated "much better than average" for engine major/minor and transmission major/minor related repairs. The trouble spots they note are the exhaust system, fuel system and audio.
 
PrinzII said:
Scott, If you are getting an A33 Maxima, ask about the following:



a) Oil Burning (As others have said, VQs have a tendency to burn oil and I rejected an '03 for that very reason (overfilled crankcase to compensate) )

b) Wind Noise TSB (There will be wind noise eminating from the rear vent windows if this has not been done)

c) Hood Vibration TSB (Hood has a tendency to "dance" at 65mph or faster)

d) Accelerator bump stop TSB (If this has not been done, the car will go into "limp mode")

e) Low Beams: D2R HID, High Beams: 9005 Halogen. Get some security bolts for your headlights ASAP to keep people from stealing them.

f) Brake vibration TSB (I had 2 SETS of rotors replaced on my '02). My front rotors were toasted like you would not believe. Can be remedied with different pads and Brembo Blanks.

g) Since you have rain/snow in some parts of TX, replace the Bridgestone RE92s ASAP. Those are the WORST tires aside from some Goodyears when the weather turns ugly.



If you want more info, PM me.
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On a cold start, the car doesn't smoke at all. I'm going to pull a plug or two and look at them as well. I have heard about the problem with the HIDs and that is the first issue I plan to address if I buy the car. I had the same rotor problem with my Accord. My mechanic drilled four 1/8th" holes, 90 degrees apart in the front rotors and I never had a problem again. I'll look into the Brembo rotors if need be. Does switching to ceramic pads help at all? The car has nearly brand new Yokohama 520s, same tires I had on my Accord and they are pretty good on wet surfaces.



Oh yeah, got my insurance check for my car today. Glad it is drawn on a local bank, when my son's car was totaled, it was some obscure, one office bank in east Texas and his bank held the check for 5 days. Since Monday is a holiday, I'll just cash the check in the morning and put the cash in my bank. If I just deposit it at my bank, it will be posted Tuesday and not accessible until Wednesday. Ugh.



Hopefully, I can have another car by midweek.
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