LSP face-off - Questions

4u2nvinmtl- Heh heh, IMO you need to talk with your *mechanic* about anything touching the paint ;)

Still wonder why the FK1000P dies off so fast for you...the rockers/etc. of the Tahoe (year round daily) hardly ever need redone.
 
Accumulator said:
4u2nvinmtl- Heh heh, IMO you need to talk with your *mechanic* about anything touching the paint ;)

Still wonder why the FK1000P dies off so fast for you...the rockers/etc. of the Tahoe (year round daily) hardly ever need redone.
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When I used to pop that FK can open, mosquitoes would magically disappear, they definitely don't like the scent of that stuff
 
I'm definitely interested in the ksg results, seems to be a very hard sealant when cured, and I would mind something that is not a coating helping against marring and such.

I will say this, when I have my 08 Mitsubishi evo, sandblasted paint behind the rear tires was a real complaint due to mitsus very thin paint, with the layers of DG105, I can say that was not an issue I had. Now, dg does have cleaners, and some would understandably argue that I was just cutting down the previous layer, but..the paint always did look better after 4 to 5 coats I swear lol.
 
boxingfan30 said:
I'm definitely interested in the ksg results, seems to be a very hard sealant when cured, and I would mind something that is not a coating helping against marring and such...
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HEAVILY LAYERED, the KSG is the *only* LSP that's ever given me actual marring protection that I could really discern. Like...I'd have some "oops!"-incident that I was *certain* would require correction, but nope, no marring. Happened enough times that I finally accepted that yeah, with enough on there KSG can offer enough of a build-film to resist some minor damage.

But I wasn't kidding when I put that "heavily layered" in caps, it takes many coats of the stuff to work that way.

I will say this, when I have my 08 Mitsubishi evo, sandblasted paint behind the rear tires was a real complaint due to mitsus very thin paint, with the layers of DG105, I can say that was not an issue I had. Now, dg does have cleaners, and some would understandably argue that I was just cutting down the previous layer, but..the paint always did look better after 4 to 5 coats I swear lol.
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I've successfully layers products that "shouldn't layer" so I won't argue with your findings.
 
Accumulator said:
HEAVILY LAYERED, the KSG is the *only* LSP that's ever given me actual marring protection that I could really discern. Like...I'd have some "oops!"-incident that I was *certain* would require correction, but nope, no marring. Happened enough times that I finally accepted that yeah, with enough on there KSG can offer enough of a build-film to resist some minor damage.

But I wasn't kidding when I put that "heavily layered" in caps, it takes many coats of the stuff to work that way.



I've successfully layers products that "shouldn't layer" so I won't argue with your findings.
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Yeah, I could always try some other DG products to layer, now with powerlock, I was told by Todd Cooperider that 2 layers is all that would be needed and was basically a waste. I'm not sure about that since powerlock has no cleaners and is a polymer, so I would imagine there wouldn't be much diminishing of the previous layer, but someone who knows chemicals could chime in on that.

Also enjoyed layering acrylic jet seal.
 
I came across an interesting comparison of the top/popular LSP's on my local SRT8 group and figured I'd share.
Note: you'll need to enable google translate plug-in or let the pictures speak for them selfs.

Club SRT Qu

P.S. I plan to still do my comparison regardless, just waiting for the weather to premit.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
I came across an interesting comparison ...[you can].. let the pictures speak for [themselves]....
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What does everybody think of the beading in those pics? Other than the Powerlock they all look pretty unimpressive to me, "blobs" rather than tiny spherical beads.
 
You should mix as a step saver. Also, 105 is an AIO, so you don't want to double the cleaner - do 601/105, then 601/111 (as 111 is pure sealant).

4u2nvinmtl said:
As I'm new to Duragloss (picked up in my last order) I see some post say to mix the DG601 and DG105 together at one part 601 to four parts 105 or should I just layer? Opinions please...

Now's your chance for me to be your Guinea pig!
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Accumulator said:
What does everybody think of the beading in those pics? Other than the Powerlock they all look pretty unimpressive to me, "blobs" rather than tiny spherical beads.
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I agree the beading in the first set of pictures is poor at best. Maybe he the LSP's wet before they cured (wipe on wipe off and spray with water for a photo) or his test is skewed to make Powerlock look good. The dirty shots sure do tell something about power lock, too bad I don't own any to try and I'm not buying more LSP's until I use what I have.
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
I agree the beading in the first set of pictures is poor at best. Maybe he the LSP's wet before they cured (wipe on wipe off and spray with water for a photo) or his test is skewed to make Powerlock look good. The dirty shots sure do tell something about power lock, too bad I don't own any...
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I'm just say that I'm gonna keep an eye peeled for other Powerlock-related posts. MY FK1000P (and 845)'ed vehicles bead a *LOT* better than that for quite a while and I generally redo them before they look as bad as in those pics.
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
If I didn't buy anymore LSPs until I had used all the ones I have, Autopia would go broke. Lol
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LOL, yeah funny truism :)

What I meant was I should use the LSP's I have, at least once...

Got the Boss G21 coming in the mail so the test is definitely happening with a correction first
:chairdance​
 
4u2nvinmtl said:
I agree the beading in the first set of pictures is poor at best. Maybe he the LSP's wet before they cured (wipe on wipe off and spray with water for a photo) or his test is skewed to make Powerlock look good. The dirty shots sure do tell something about power lock, too bad I don't own any to try and I'm not buying more LSP's until I use what I have.
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If you want to send me a little plastic bottle, I'll put a little in there that you can compare from one panel to another. I think you'd be impressed.
 
boxingfan30 said:
I used to layer dg105 5 or 6 times, after about 3 it REALLY starts to look like a candied apple. It's very easy to apply and remove, but not terribly slick. I like powerlock because as I've said before, it's one LSP that water flies off of. I have not tried layering the dg and then applying PL over it however.
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For what it's worth.....
Duragloss 101, 105 and 501 (marine) all contain chemical cleaners of varying strength, with 101 the least and 501 the most. Layering these is somewhat counter productive and removes sealant. It's better to top 601/105 (or the others) with 601/111 because 111 is pure sealant w/o cleaners. Even then, Duragloss recommends against too many layers as the application process can remove sealant. I an initial layer of 601/105 and no more than 2 subsequent layers of 601/111 as per DG tech support.
(note: 601 is the bonding agent and mixing 4 parts sealant to 1 part 601 promotes bonding and is a step saver).
 
Maybe those Duragloss products with cleaners are like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, which "shouldn't" (scare-quotes intentional) layer according to the conventional wisdom, but *does* layer if you go about it right.
 
Accumulator said:
Maybe those Duragloss products with cleaners are like Autoglym Super Resin Polish, which "shouldn't" (scare-quotes intentional) layer according to the conventional wisdom, but *does* layer if you go about it right.
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I dunno...it'd be like multiple applications of KAIO - you just shouldn't/wouldn't in favor of KAIO followed by KSG.

Here's my communication with Duragloss I indicated and questioned my process of a layer of 105/601 followed by 1 or 2 layers of 111/601...

Mike,
Thank you for your inquiry. The procedure you have listed is perfect. Adding a layer of 111/601 will give you extra durability but don't do more than 3 layers as you will start to remove the polish.
The 601 will start to lose its bonding ability after 2 hours.

God Bless,
Jerry, Technical Support
 
MiVor- Maybe that SRP layering is just a one-off case and trying that with other AIOs would be pointless. Sounds like the Duragloss is that way.

Now what I *DON'T* understand is how "more than 3 layers" could "start to remove the [underlying] polish"...not that I guess it matters but stuff that doesn't make sense to me can make me wonder ;)
 
I put on a coat of FK1000p 2 weeks ago. It was raining here Friday and it was beading real nice but a lot beads were those big blobs of water bigger than a $.50 piece. Throughout the summer I had been using BFCS and would get those small beads. Although with both when I leave the parking lot it surely doesn't take much movement to get rid of the water. I want an LSP where it actually sheds water when parked and does not bead but have not found that in the years I have been driving and waxing my vehicles. I took the least amount of care on my last car and it only seen wax maybe 4 times in the 7 years I owned it. Don't think water ever beaded on that.
 
Accumulator said:
MiVor- Maybe that SRP layering is just a one-off case and trying that with other AIOs would be pointless. Sounds like the Duragloss is that way.

Now what I *DON'T* understand is how "more than 3 layers" could "start to remove the [underlying] polish"...not that I guess it matters but stuff that doesn't make sense to me can make me wonder ;)
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I could be wrong, but I was thinking that just maybe the mechanical abrasion involved in removing the carrier might affect the polish layering... But then it would seem that any attempt at layering would be a problem with this type of sealant.
 
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