LSP face-off - Questions

skibik said:
I put on a coat of FK1000p 2 weeks ago. It was raining here Friday and it was beading real nice but a lot beads were those big blobs of water bigger than a $.50 piece. Throughout the summer I had been using BFCS and would get those small beads. Although with both when I leave the parking lot it surely doesn't take much movement to get rid of the water. I want an LSP where it actually sheds water when parked and does not bead but have not found that in the years I have been driving and waxing my vehicles. I took the least amount of care on my last car and it only seen wax maybe 4 times in the 7 years I owned it. Don't think water ever beaded on that.
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I've often wondered if beading is the best measure of LSP integrity since water tends to bead on any clean surface. I'm equally unsure about the size and shape of beads and how it relates...maybe a mystic bead reader is required! I think beading is likely on relatively flat surfaces although I have seen some cases of sheeting on angled hoods and such. I agree it would be nice if water just repelled from the surface. I often see dust rings on the hood of my truck following a very light rain that dries off....while a heavier rain seems to rinse clean.
 
Best beading I can get is with a freshly corrected and burnished surface (yeah, that does seem to factor in a bit) LSPed with awax such as M16, applied via machine, buffed off by machine/MF bonnets while using a "waxy" QD (e.g., GG SpeedShine) in a sort of "pseudo-spitshine" manner. Tiny, spherical beads that easily blow off the panels and often roll off by themselves. Used to get similar results with the (never mentioned..) Malm's Liquid Wax.

My FK1000P doesn't bead like that. Period. But it doesn't leave "bigger than 50¢" size beads either, even when it's old and the vehicle is dirty. I'm at a loss to explain why some people do get pretty mediocre beading out of the FK1000P but it does seem to happen now and then.

MiVor- Yeah on the "but then it seems like any..." That's the part I can't figure out and what makes me wonder.
 
My FK1000P beads according to the angle of the panel. By that I mean, shallower angles like the hood/roof have larger beads as there's more water, and the A, B, C, and D pillars have fine beads, whereas my lower panels mostly sheet water due to the overhang (negative angle, like pouring a cup).

Sorry for the delay with the testing but I'm waiting on my LC HD pads to come in for my Boss 21, so I can get a great surface prep.

I'm going to try Menz SF4000 polish (I think) but that really depends what the test spot results are.
 
boxingfan30 said:
No, like just sitting in the bottle, mixed does it harden? What happens to it?
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I asked about left over mixed product. According to Jerry (DG Tech Support) the 601 loses it's bonding capability after about 2 hours but the product does not harden and can still be used with or without additional bonding agent. However, I have yet to use left over product (I was thinking I might use older, left over mixed product it on jams, rims, bumpers and such?)
 
OK guys and gals, I'm doing it this weekend (set time aside finally). Pads, G21 and everything is now in order.

I also have a few new LSP to include in the face-off (Uber coating, Ion, UPG+, Fusion, etc.).

For now the requests are as follows:
KAIO + 2x KSG VS 2x FK1000P (drivers front fender vs passengers front fender, respectively)
DG601 + 2x DG105 VS 2x 476S (drivers rear fender vs passengers rear fender, respectively)
2x KSG VC 2x FK1000p (drivers rocker panel VS passengers rocker panel, respectively)

If anyone wants to see any other products face off now's your last chance to post.

My durability test will run from winter until spring (from the first week of December until the first week of April).
 
Very interested to see the results comparing the FK1000 and the DG105!! I know 105 is supposed to have cleaners in it that you would think might remove previous coats of DG product, but it doesn't seem to be the case in actual practice. Last year I didn't have time to do a spring correction so just did a coat of DG601/501 and then a coat of DG601/105 24 hours later. At 8 months when I finally polished it off it was still going strong with good beading and sheeting. However, never as strong beading and sheeting as the FK1000 I've been using since then--water just seems to jump off the paint with the FK1000--find myself having to wash less often.

Another good LSP to test when you can would be Sonax Polymer Net Shield--seems to get allot of positive reviews comparing it's behavior to a coating.
 
SGM2008 said:
+1 on the Sonax PNS if it's in your arsenal.
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Unfortunately, it's not. I've been apprehensive about an arsole style LSP but I'll pick some up with my next order.

I mostly have paste waxes and liquid sealants (listed below).

LSP available to test:
  • BF WD
  • BF MS
  • CarPro Delux (can be used on paint apparently)
  • CarPro HydroFoam
  • CG Butter Wet Wax
  • CG 50/50 Wax
  • CG White Wax
  • Collinite 476s
  • Collinite 845
  • DG 105
  • DG 111
  • DG 601
  • Finish Kare 1000-P
  • Klasse AIO
  • Klasse SG
  • Lowrider Wax
  • Meg’s D151
  • Pinnacle LSW
  • Sonus Ion
  • UPGP
  • WG DG
  • WG Fuzion
  • WG Uber Coating
 
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