Your Opinions Please...

J

jhstuckey

New member
Hi guys,

I've put threw an order for a Porter Cable w/ the Lake Country pads--which most of you agreed are the ones to get-- I've also orderd a variety of things threw PoorBoy's and am considering ordering more..

My question is: what pads should be used w/ which products? (My Vehicle is newer and has some light scratches, swirls, etc.)

I haven't ordered any type of polish and wax.. So could you give your opinion on: a) products, b) pads to use w/ products, c) procedures

thanks!

js
 
Holy cow.... that's a tough question that will have as many answers as there are members on this board. It all depends on the condition of the paint you are working on. There are too many combinations of pads and products to really go into without knowing more about what you are trying to accomplish. I've got some answers to detailing FAQs here, but those are just one man's opinion. There are lots of ways to skin a cat in this particular hobby. The search function is your friend. :)
 
Well we just recently got this vehicle back from the shop, a door that was damaged had to be repaired--

They "wetsanded it" I believe, because he said it had a lot of scratches-- but they got all of them out...

Here's a question: What would you do?
 
What I would do would depend on what I saw. Pictures would be needed to give a useful diagnosis and recomend a process to fix it. I'm not trying to be unhelpfu, but what you are asking is really hard to answer without seeing the car. It would be like trying to give you an glasses prescription without being able to get you in the chair to run tests.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
What I would do would depend on what I saw. Pictures would be needed to give a useful diagnosis and recomend a process to fix it. I'm not trying to be unhelpfu, but what you are asking is really hard to answer without seeing the car. It would be like trying to give you an glasses prescription without being able to get you in the chair to run tests.
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Oh okay-- So there isn't just anything that you could tell me to do... like common paint maintaince?

I'm going read through the forums...
 
jhstuckey said:
Oh okay-- So there isn't just anything that you could tell me to do... like common paint maintaince?

I'm going read through the forums...
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Yeah, definitely read through the forums. For each one polish/chemical product, there are about half a dozen or more pad choices with varied aggressiveness that you can use. As you read through the forums, you'll pick up some of the "most common" solutions for common/basic surface defects.

Good luck!
 
There is nothing common about paint maintanance. Every color and car is different. You could always learn by doing. Just get a cutting pad and SSR2 and see what that does. If it doesn't solve the problem then bump up the polish to SSR2.5 or 3 and see what that does. Just remember that the perfect shine isn't a product or products. It is a process. I can't teach you that process through a forum. You have to get the tools in your hands and see how it works for you.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
There is nothing common about paint maintanance. Every color and car is different.
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Agreed, but there is one qualification point to remember (or at least I would argue it to be such):

There are common "types" of surface defects that we all see on a daily basis (swirls, holograms, marring, scuffs, etc.) and for each type, a different process may be necessary depending on the type of paint, color, etc. HOWEVER, there are some "common" starting points to correcting those, or "go-to" methods that work in the largest number of situations. For example, just as you mentioned SSR2/Cutting pad, I myself (being a Meguiar's user for the most part) would start with M80 on a W8006 polishing pad, and go from there when correcting marring or light to moderate swirls. If that didn't work, kick up to a W7006 cutting pad, and/or M83 with a W8006. And of course also varying the speed makes a difference, etc.

Even at that, though, you must learn proper technique with the PC before any of this will do as much good as it possibly can. So you're absolutely right, learning must be a hands-on thing; although there are common points at which to start said hands-on learning.
 
Quote: PEI Detail
45 days to wash the car? Sounds odd.
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Yeah, that does sound a little odd
I think (or hope) what was trying to be relayed was not to apply a wax or sealant for 45 days.

JS, do you have any picture of the defects that you are looking to correct, as that would help in suggesting what process and product should be used.
For instance I would not recondend the same prodcut/pad combo to remove 2000 grit wetsand marks as I would for removing some halos that were introduced by someone with a rotary.
As for general maintenance, everybody seems to have their personal favorite(s), and you have to adjust your technique for cars current condition.

Sorry if it sounds rather vague.

Good Luck
"J"
 
jaybs95 said:
Yeah, that does sound a little odd
I think (or hope) what was trying to be relayed was not to apply a wax or sealant for 45 days.
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Oh jeez, I didn't even catch that little gem. Yeah I definitely agree with that hope. Of course it should be washed before that long; and it would even be smart to be applying a glaze like Meguiar's #5 or #7 during that first 45 day period to provide some "sacrificial protection" without sealing off the paint.
 
Thanks for the replies guys!

I think the guy meant that I shouldn't be applying anything to it. The guy who did the work is one of the top guys in our state, if not the southeast; he has agreed to show me some techniques when I go back in a few weeks-- Hopefully I'll be able to stay long enough to pick up on all kinds of things :)

I'll get a hold of a digital camera but, by the time I take the pictures I will have gone over the vehicle and removed all of the defects (as I said, he's going to show me how while we do it) so their might not be much to show aside from my beautiful work :)

I'll post.

Meanwhile, Some SRR1 and SRR2.5 and EX is a good idea? (I'm putting on order in w/ autogeek.net)
 
jhstuckey said:
Meanwhile, Some SRR1 and SRR2.5 and EX is a good idea? (I'm putting on order in w/ autogeek.net)
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I'd throw some SSR2 on the order. You might even get away without SSR1 depending on how you plan to maintain the finish after it's polished.

Also I think if I were you, I'd have the guy who will be teaching you tell you what products to get. If he prefers working with one brand over another (Meguiar's user vs. Poorboys, vs. et al) you will want to be stocked with the products he works with.
 
Welcome to DC.

I have a Black Tahoe Z71 (and have had other black GM products).

When it comes to polishes I've tried Meg's 80 series, 3M, 4*, FK, Poorboys, Pinnacle, and a host of others and have spent more time that I would care to comment on finding 'The One'. These days I will only use: Menzerna Polishes and Optimum Polish (not Optimum Compound or Hyper Compound) on my black paint. They work well EVERY time for me. Almost every other brand of polish leaves VERY fine micro marring that you can see under indecent lighting. Most people would not even notice it, but the more time you spend around your paint, the more YOU will notice it.

I've also found a BIG difference in pads, and these days I only use 6" Hi-Gloss Constant Pressure or 7.5 VC pads from Lake Country.

For new paint you should only need a polish and finish pad.

Take a few weeks and search the site. You'll really learn a lot about products, DC members, etc...
 
mgm2003 said:
Welcome to DC.

I have a Black Tahoe Z71 (and have had other black GM products).

When it comes to polishes I've tried Meg's 80 series, 3M, 4*, FK, Poorboys, Pinnacle, and a host of others and have spent more time that I would care to comment on finding 'The One'. These days I will only use: Menzerna Polishes and Optimum Polish (not Optimum Compound or Hyper Compound) on my black paint. They work well EVERY time for me. Almost every other brand of polish leaves VERY fine micro marring that you can see under indecent lighting. Most people would not even notice it, but the more time you spend around your paint, the more YOU will notice it.

I've also found a BIG difference in pads, and these days I only use 6" Hi-Gloss Constant Pressure or 7.5 VC pads from Lake Country.

For new paint you should only need a polish and finish pad.

Take a few weeks and search the site. You'll really learn a lot about products, DC members, etc...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply-- Can you tell me where you order Menzerna? ( And the specific polish you used)

Also about the pads, I ordered a kit from autogeek.net; As I am not familiar w/ the different names of the pads, Are these what you are talking about? http://autogeek.net/hk7424.html

Thanks!
 
www.premiumautocare.com sells Menzerna. I would suggest the Menzerna kit + a bottle of Intensive Polish.

Intensive polish for swirls & moderate defects.
Final Polish II for minor swirls/defects and for final polishing

I like Lake Country Hi-Gloss Constant Pressure 6" pads for the Porter Cable. They perform very well, and have decent durability. You can buy these pads at www.premiumautocare.com too, or at www.Autogeek.net (both DC sponsors).
 
mgm2003 said:
www.premiumautocare.com sells Menzerna. I would suggest the Menzerna kit + a bottle of Intensive Polish.

Intensive polish for swirls & moderate defects.
Final Polish II for minor swirls/defects and for final polishing

I like Lake Country Hi-Gloss Constant Pressure 6" pads for the Porter Cable. They perform very well, and have decent durability. You can buy these pads at www.premiumautocare.com too, or at www.Autogeek.net (both DC sponsors).
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Thanks! I'll find a diff. distributor for them; premiumautocare does not answer my numerous emails.
 
jhstuckey said:
Thanks! I'll find a diff. distributor for them; premiumautocare does not answer my numerous emails.
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Try giving them a phone call. It's free.

Phone: Monday - Friday 8AM - 4PM EST:

Toll Free 877-726-3420


Charles
 
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