X-Kote Job 2003 Jetta

Just a little update to this thread. This is a boat that was cleaned and then polished and then X-koted. I should have taken some pics after the polish, just to show the improvement that X-Kote made.



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Afters were quick shots in the rain with no sun, rain drop on the lens. This is one of the main reasons i bought into X-Kote. To reduce or eliminate oxidation on gelcoats. We will see how it works.







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I will be trying out a beta version of X-Kote which is to be 100% UV protected, next week, pics to come.





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Nice pics Mark. I'll be posting some of a recent boat I did very soon.



Also replying to the post about gardgroup buying X-Kote.. untrue X-Kote Inc is not for sale.
 
Here is a boat I did this week. It's an old Metal flake boat 1977, unsure on the model. Customer wanted just the top part of the boat done. The hull was untouched. Boat was polished with Megs 1 step boat cutting compound, cleaned, then X-Koted.



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sideB.jpg


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It looks all distorted in your AFTER pics, like the reflection is through water, which I am guessing is from the X-Kote.



I'm not gonna lie, this AFTER pic looks not so good. Shiny? Yes. But I can rub oil all over my car to make it shiny. I think for $300 or so dollars a real detailer could do a MUCH better job.



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What you are staring at in the reflection is melting ice and snow on the ground. This car was done in the middle of the spring melt here in Northern Canada.
 
hi all

question to Flygti32

i have applied x-kote and i have loads of streaks, is there a way that i can get rid of them now that the product has cured, it should have self leveled.

i don't want to buff all the product off to get the finish level.

thanks

Terry G
 
hi all

question to Flygti32

i have applied x-kote and i have loads of streaks, is there a way that i can get rid of them now that the product has cured, it should have self leveled.

i don't want to buff all the product off to get the finish level.

thanks

Terry G
 
If you have streaks Terry you 1) applied the product to thin 2) did not remove all surface contamination before xkoting and now the xkote has pulled that contamination to the surface of the paint.



To repair #1 I would reapply the product again this time being very liberal with the product. You have to rub allot and break down the layer you already put on. Rub until the surface feels smooth again then do a finish coat with a fresh rag.



To repair #2 use a rotary buffer with a finishing cream or machine glaze. I use Megs #7. Use the softest pad you have. I use white foam. Run the rotary at 600-900 rpm over the surface and it will level the surface down.



You stated " it should have self leveled"? if the product looks frozen with ridges in it then you used to much activator in the formula and the product set to fast not allowing it to flow out. If this is the case you will have to polish the product off and start again.
 
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