Wter etching with Collinite 845, how?

I

imported_RedlineIRL

New member
Well it's been about 2 weeks since I have washed my car, and during that time there has been a mix of rainy and stormy days along with hotter and sunny days that my car has been exposed to. At the moment my car sits outside 24/7, which sucks, so it gets exposed to a lot. I happened to notice earlier in the week on my hood that there was dried on water from the rain that almost looked whiteish like calcimum deposits in a way. I didn't think too much of it since it was not hot out after it got rained on, nor was it in direct sunlight. Plus, it has been rained on before and had this apearance after getting rained on, and I have never had any trouble washing it off before. Well that was earlier in the week, so today I tried using some QD to get some of it off. Now some of these areas have left a faint white mark outlining where the water dried on when looking at certain angles.:mad: Needless to say I am pissed, stupid me for not getting this crap off earlier with at least a QD. I tried using vinegar, clay, Poorboys Carnuba Polish by hand, no luck, these aren't coming out by hand. Guess I'll be spending my weekend trying to get this crap off with the DA.





I could see this happening from hard water or tap water getting sprayed all over it and left to dry in direct sunlight, but from rain water drying on it on cloudy days? I don't get it. Are darker colors vehicles more succeptable to this than others?



The last time I fully detailed my car was the middle of April with Poorboys Carnuba Blue Polish topped with two layers of Polycharged Collinite 845. I always though that Collinite 845 was supposed to be one of the more durable waxes out there, and should have provided some of the better protection against water spotting and etching? I don't get it, should this be happening with 845 on darker vehicles, or is there another LSP that provides better resistance than 845? Anything else I can try before resorting to the orange pad and cutting polish?
 
ok, so you had 2 layers that you put on in April? Hmmm, what state do you live in? Is acid rain a problem? Has this happened before? I can see water spots on my car as well, but they always wash off.. then again my car is usually washed at least every 3 days.



How often do you wash your car normally and what type of car wash are you using? What type of wash mitt?



I'm just wondering if the 845 was coming off due to any harsh soap or wash mitt, maybe a power washer is used? I heard that can have an effect on the a LSP sometimes.



The 845 is a liquid wax, and the only thing I don't like about them is they never seem to last quite as long as other types. I would use their fleet wax. I always say this, but Duragloss 105 is a sealant you might want to look into as it resists alkalines, bird dropping etching, and really is very thin. It's the only liquid I have used that really does seem to work better than any other that I have used so far. If you have any Klasse AIO, i'd use that with a white pad... that's what I used and water spots came right off for me.



If not, maybe just some cleaner wax or another AIO product.
 
Guitarist302008 said:
ok, so you had 2 layers that you put on in April? Hmmm, what state do you live in? Is acid rain a problem? Has this happened before? I can see water spots on my car as well, but they always wash off.. then again my car is usually washed at least every 3 days.
Click to expand...

I live in TN, never had a problem with acid rain or any kind of rain water etching before and I don't live near anything that could really produce it.



Guitarist302008 said:
How often do you wash your car normally and what type of car wash are you using? What type of wash mitt?



I'm just wondering if the 845 was coming off due to any harsh soap or wash mitt, maybe a power washer is used? I heard that can have an effect on the a LSP sometimes.
Click to expand...

Usually it's weekly, two week max depending if the weather cooperates. Hand wash only using Optimum car wash and a genuine sheepskin mitt



No power washer, just a hose and a nossle



Guitarist302008 said:
The 845 is a liquid wax, and the only thing I don't like about them is they never seem to last quite as long as other types. I would use their fleet wax. I always say this, but Duragloss 105 is a sealant you might want to look into as it resists alkalines, bird dropping etching, and really is very thin. It's the only liquid I have used that really does seem to work better than any other that I have used so far. If you have any Klasse AIO, i'd use that with a white pad... that's what I used and water spots came right off for me.
Click to expand...

Why does everyone seem to say that they get 4-6 months out of 845 then? If it lasts that long it should be providing at least some kind of barrier against rain water that has been on the hood for a couple of weeks, even in hot weather.



Guitarist302008 said:
If not, maybe just some cleaner wax or another AIO product.
Click to expand...

Already tried a cleaner wax and it did nothing, I'll try some Klasse but I am not expecting much out of since it does really have much of anything in terms of cut to it
 
I'd really doubt that Collinite 845 is the problem. Yes it is durable. It is one of the toughest products you can use and 6 months durability would not be unheard of. I would think that whatever was in the dust on the surface has caused your problem. You may very well have to polish it down and then apply your

LSP again.
 
RedlineIRL said:
Usually it's [washed] weekly, two week max depending if the weather cooperates. Hand wash only using Optimum car wash and a genuine sheepskin mitt..
Click to expand...



What kind of durability do you usually get out of 845, or is this the first time you've used it?



Why does everyone seem to say that they get 4-6 months out of 845 then? If it lasts that long it should be providing at least some kind of barrier against rain water that has been on the hood for a couple of weeks, even in hot weather.
Click to expand...





I don't always (often, but not always) get great durability out of 845, and I don't park outside. IMO it *was* providing a barrier and you'd have bigger troubles had it not been on there.



Some "bad rain" or "bad water" will mess up paint right through most anything; I've had sprinkler water (from Memphis TN too) utterly trash paint right through a fresh coat of good LSP (and I mean *deep* etching). Even just "bad rain water" can do this, and PCed or not, a few months outside if a lot of abuse for any LSP.



Sometimes, I get surprisingly mediocre durability out of 845. I've never figured out why, and no it's not something obvious. I've even had 476S die off after a few weeks outside :nixweiss If you leave a vehicle outside 24/7 then IMO you need to refresh the LSP quite often, simple as that.



Already tried a cleaner wax and it did nothing, I'll try some Klasse but I am not expecting much out of since it does really have much of anything in terms of cut to it
Click to expand...



But KAIO can be a good paint cleaner with the right pad, and maybe you don't really *need* much cut; don't take off clear if you only need to take off the contamination that's on top of the clear.



Blake said:
I would think that whatever was in the dust on the surface has caused your problem...
Click to expand...



Yeah, whatever it was mixed with the water, sat there long enough to do something, and it's lucky there was at least some 845 on there or there might've been a real disaster.
 
Sounds like the damage awful reclaimed sprinkler water can do here or acid rain can do up north. I know it's frustrating but often the only fix is having to polish out the spots and reapply the LSP.
 
I've had water spotting issue and have tried to do some research into what was causing them. I can pretty confidently say that rain water has not been an issue for me. Sprinkler water has. I was almost sure that Zaino was very sensitive to hard water deposits, so I did a small study and compared KSG, Z2, #21 and 845. What blew me away is 845 was the worst about water spots. They were very hard to remove, where they wiped off Z2 with no effort. I still need to get around to publishing that study, I had so many pictures that its a task I'm not looking forward to.



I also think that hard water deposits suffer from the same issues that the Autoglym bird poo study indicated. If you get to them quick, you are golden, but at the paint heat cycles, the particles get embedded and require paint removal to address.
 
Klasse AIO with a white pad has always done the trick for me when it came to water spots, but different places have different water problems. I know we have some seriously hard water here at my house and I just bought a hose filter for it which did help a lot so far... you don't smell the water deposits nearly as bad and the car just looks more ... I guess soft is how I would describe it? After a wash and dry.



I honestly would strip it down, try to put it in a garage for a few days, layer on some of the Duragloss 105, wait 24 hours as with most sealants or waxes... put down 3 or even 5 coats and I think that will help A LOT, if you want to put a wax over it, that's fine too.



I would myself however just keep the 105 by itself on the car and then every... maybe 2 months take the PC and apply another layer. Duragloss has claims of lasting a year, and with the right conditions, that might be possible, but it's always better to be safe.
 
Klasse AIO, fortunately, often is a great water spot eliminator. I've been able to get rid of some sprinkle spotting using it by hand. Here in Florida, I've noticed much has to do with the degree of the spotting. If it's only a tiny bit, it will be fine, how long it may have baked in the sun, more difficult, or if there's a substantial amount and/or the water quality was really terrible and cut deep into the paint --happened to me too often than I'd like :( Klasse AIO is the first thing I try to hit spots with, then maybe vinegar, but after that, it's machine polishing time.



The layers of sealant procedure sounds great! Maybe we can figure a fairly definitive regimen for which sealants and when/how much to apply that seems to be the best barrier against water etching.
 
Bill D said:
The layers of sealant procedure sounds great! Maybe we can figure a fairly definitive regimen for which sealants and when/how much to apply that seems to be the best barrier against water etching.
Click to expand...



Five or six layers of either KSG or FK1000P works for me; I basically neglect the vehicle until I feel like washing it, and have zero issues from spotting, bugs, birds..no problems from anything. Sure different from the fragility of UPP, I might have to change the S8 over to the FK1000P next time I redo it.
 
Does FK1000P leave a lot of beading on horizontal surfaces? Lots of beading is what caused this problem to begin with, so I am through with 845 or any other kind of product that makes tall tight beading



Is there anything in a liquid form that works just as good as FK1000P? I haven't worked with a paste style wax in probably 15 years, and haven't look back since using liquids
 
RedlineIRL said:
Does FK1000P leave a lot of beading on horizontal surfaces? Lots of beading is what caused this problem to begin with, so I am through with 845 or any other kind of product that makes tall tight beading..
Click to expand...



It does bead for me, but I almost *always* say that about every product, maybe because I refresh as soon as the beading drops off.



Some people have reported good sheeting with ZAIO, and so far it's doing that pretty well on my Crown Vic. SOME spotting/etc. from water when it's really dirty, but I kinda expect that to show on a white car.
 
You do mention the spotting is on the hood, so even if the car is not in direct sunlight, your hood will get hot during use, causing the water there to dry faster, and also causing the paint to go through the heat cycle issues that yakky mentioned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top