Wot I Did Today... Long Post - Critique Please!

S

SenojNW

New member
Tried my new Hitachi RO/DA today with some Megs #9 - also tried some Sonus clay first... Thought I would share...



1)

The Megs #9 was weird - it didn't seem to break down - it certainly didn't go to powder - does it normally? I just worked it around on a moderate speed then buffed off - I suppose it kind of broke down but it just sort of rolled into little lumpy bits rather than a powder - weird or not weird??



2)

Don't think it did anything for the minor swirls... will need to check in the sun...



3)

The clay was fantastic - got all those nasty brake dust lumps out. I actually liked the feel of the surface after clay and a wipe clean, more than after the Megs #9



4)

End result - the panel I worked (hood) didn't look any better than the other panels that just had a wash...



Sooooo



Thoughts are - I wash and dry the car properly and it is new, so I don't have bad swirls and the ones that are there are hard to see as the car is metallic silver. Using the machine to work in and polish seemed like overkill and without great benefit so I thought I would try this approach...



1) Wash with Megs Gel Wash and chamois dry

2) Clay if required with Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay and Sonus Glyde Lube

3) Hand apply Klasse AIO with foam applicator

4) Buff off Klasse AIO using RO/DA with Sonus DAS Buffing Bonnet on a Sonus SFX foam pad

5) Apply Sonus Acrylic Glans and buff with Concours Buffing Towel



All done!



This should keep things A-OK with maybe an annual swirl removal job??? By me or a pro???



Any thoughts?
 
maybe #9 was a poor choice....something like #80 is a good all rounder



by breaking down , dont expect it to turn to powder, the products ive ued usualy turn clear after a while , thats when you stop and wipe off
 
Yeah, #9 is too mild for anything other than *very* light correction on the softest paints (even by rotary IMO).



You were working the #9 *WAY* too long.



You don't work Meg's polishes to powder (I know what people say about doing it with #83 but I'm going by what Meguiar's says), it can even lead to micromarring. With Meg's stuff, the only products you allow to dry are their LSPs (and #5 if you really want to). Other stuff (such as #9) should be wiped/buffed off while it's still a little wet.



Get the #80 and only work it until it starts to look clear/transparent. Wipe it off before it dries. #80 works well for me this way, but it'll only do so much correction, it's pretty mild stuff too.



BTW, AIO removes the oils that Meg's products leave behind. This can result in marring "coming back". If you can still find the old 3M PI-III RC/MG (05933 and 05937) I'd use those instead. They work great before the Klasse twins. My local autobody/paint supply place still has them on the shelf, so they're still out there.
 
I hate to hijack this thread, but I was curious. Is it ok to use Meg's #7 then use Zaino Z2-Pro over that or will you run into bonding issues?
 
*Avoids Hijack* :)



Thanks Accumulator - I'm experimenting on the hood that is getting resprayed soon (safe learning ground!).



I was going to try the #9 again today with a green Sonus DAS pad and yeah - just work it until clear.



I have the 3M 05933 (Perfect-It III) but I would be a little scared to use it! It comes out as 6 on the abrasive scale here;



http://danosdetailing.com/products/



compared to #80 (gets a 4) and #9 (gets a 3). I have some Sonus SFX-2 on it way but in the meantime I might "spike" the number 9 with some ScratchX (one line of each on the pad) and see how that goes...



I only have some light swirls that I am trying to treat on the hood (perfect the technique) before I move on to others elsewhere.



Thoughts?
 
I wouldn't worry about the 05933 being too harsh, it *does* have more cut than #80 but it doesn't really deserve it's "rubbing compound" name IMO. It's not that bad and it'll behave pretty mildly if you don't put a lot of pressure on the machine or otherwise do anything to encourage its bite. I really can't imagine any relatively new b/c paint that the 05933 would be too aggressive for. Work it until *almost* dry, it'll finish out pretty nicely. I dunno how the #9 will work on any micromarring from the 05933 but it's not like the 05933 leaves all that much anyhow. On silver I sometimes can't even see a need for a follow-up product unless I really knock myself out inspecting (but I still use the milder product any how ;) ).



In my experience, it's more advisable to work with mild pads and a slightly aggressive product (e.g., 05933) than to try to up the aggressiveness of a *mild* product by using a harsher pad. The #9 is something I'd only use with a mild pad (at least with the PC).
 
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