worst water spots ever

A

ange5

New member
My wife`s A5 convertible picked up some water spots. Not sure how or where but they will not come off.

I have tried:
with machine buffing and by hand
-cleaner wax
-vinegar
-polishing compound
-rubbing compound
-clay bar
-Sud Factory water spot remover
-on glass i tried 0000 steel wool with all of the above.

spots still there. I have owned probably 50 cars along the way and have not had spots like this. I don`t want to move to wet sanding (other than this the car is like new with 15k miles)

I am out of tricks......
 
I have used Carpro Ceriglas but was going after spots and wiper tracks. If I recall, it is a bit messy. I used a foam pad and NOT a glass pad. My first go to is PB`s Pro Polish 2 (chemical and abrasive).
 
get some 2000 grit sand paper....maybe. I know that`s not what you want to hear but you tried pretty much everything IMO.

ceriglass is obviously meant for glass, not sure about that...
 
Will reflect on this one. It feels just wrong to wet sand a new car. If it comes to this may have a shop do it if it needs a clear coat respray.
 
How exactly did you use the machine, and which machine, by model number...
Which products used by name and model number...
Whose pads did you use, and what size, model number...
Technique/s used with machine...go into detail... speed of machine, how much downward pressure, how many passes, what did you use to remove products from pads and paint...
How many years experience do you have using all of the above on paintwork...
Dan F
 
I get your point that I may not be doing this perfectly. . I am no professional detailer but have been working on cars for about 50 years. Building, painting, competitive driving and prepping for car shows. I may go back and try again but losing a bit of patience with this one.
 
1. I only use Rotary power, and have no issue correcting anything, that is correctable..
2. I always Measure the total thickness of ALL layers in Microns, and then, measure after every set of passes to insure I am not removing too much material, in Microns.
3. Keep everything moist through that set of passes on that spot, and get the product to work itself down enough, to where the pad will now pick up about everything, and leave the surface almost perfectly clean. Clean the pad after each pass..
4. I put a certain amount of downward pressure on the pad and product, every pass, and measure, and judge how much of all of this does it still need, to match the gloss I created on the adjacent panel... It all has to match. And of course, measure, measure, measure, in microns before and after, so I know what I took off.
5. Like and have great results for most corrections with L/Country Hydro-Tech Pads in Cyan and Orange, Cyan is the most aggressive of the two.
6. Done a lot of auto painting until they started using airplane paint, and decided that was too toxic for me, even with a respirator... Loved the work though... :)
7. I only use Slower Speeds on the Rotary... Higher speeds make for faster way to disaster sometimes, and I don`t need to do that..
8. I am sure that after 50 years, you have a Lot of great experience and processes you like to use too..

Dan F
 
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