Wished this wouldn't be my first post

CARTfan

CARTfan

New member
Hey all. I'm new to Detail City and was welcomed very warmly a few days ago. In my intro. post I mentioned that I just got a new blue WRX. Well, after having it for two days I decided to polish and wax it. While I was doing that, I noticed these spots etched into the paint all over the horizontal surfaces of the car... acid rain. The thing looks hideous in the right light. :nono

I haven't gotten a definitive answer, but it doesn't seem like Subaru is going to do anything about it. :angry So, I'm probably gonna have to tackle this myself. I have a Porter Cable rotary buffer (not the random orbital one) and have used it a many times but not on something this new. I pretty much know what compounds I'll be using (SSR 2.5 and SSR 1), but I need advice on what pads to use. What size, cut, brands, and how they attach etc. I've always used the elastic ones or the ones you tie on and they're annoying to say the least (string wipping around, bonnett flying off)... freakin amateurs. :wall Any help would be appreciated, even if you think my choice of compounds is wrong, let me know that too... or if you think I'm insane for even trying to do this myself. Thanks.
 
Welcome again, CARTfan! :D

First off, if you're sure that there's acid rain spots
on the car, then you'll want to deal with that first.
The deposits in the spotted areas get re-activated
by moisture, and over time become worse and worse.

The most effective way to deal with this, would be to
purchase a decontamination kit from either Finish Kare
or Auto International .

If you're on the east coast, you can go with Autoint, and if you're
on the left coast, you can go with Finish Kare. One note here:
FK1 offers smaller decon kits in qt and half gal,
while the Autoint ony sells there kits in gallon sizes. The kits are
a bit pricey from the onset, but the results will be worth it.
It is important to keep in mind that the decon kits are
designed to remove and neutralize the deposits or
any other kind of industrial or organic contamination. Once
the paint has been etched, the only other solution is to
polish or compound out the defects. Worse case scenario
is a repaint of the affected area.


The next option is to do a PH neutral shampooing. Once again,
the two companies above offer carwashes that can neutralize
the acid rain/ deposits, and keep them from spreading. This
however is a short term solution, as the car shampooing by
itself will only be as effective as the paint protection you use.

Another popular option is the use of a good cleaner wax. While
it does not offer the total package of the decon kit, it is
a cost affective solution. PB PWC fits the bill quite well in this
area. Regular use will provide cleaning power as well as protection.
On express jobs, I like to use this with a polish pad and either
a PC or my Mak D/A machine. This way i can tackle cleaning,
light swirl/ scratch removal, and leave behind carnuaba wax.

As for the compounding or polishing products you'll need, hard
to say as we hear @ DC have no idea what the affected areas
look like. As a rule of thumb, however, it is always best to start
out with the least agressive step and then work up when you don't
find the results you want. With that in mind, Id go with one of the
following pad options: Meguiars Cut pad and polish pad, Lake
Country light cut pad and polish pad, or Edge 2000 light cut
pad and polish pad. IMO, the Meguiar's pads are the softest,
while the Lake Country and the Edge pads are a bit stiffer.
Best of all, the sponsors of this forum offer some or
all of the different pads. By all means, touch base with
them to see what may be the right ones for you.

No matter which pad you try, I would first go with SSR2.5 and
a polish pad first to see if they can make a dent. If you don't
see any results, then step up to the light cut pad and SSR2.5.
I'd try to keep the speed at around 900-1200 rpm, applying
medium/ light pressure for the inital passes, then lighten up,
and let the weight of the machine do the rest. You probably know
this already, but it's worth repeating: keep the pad as flat on
the panels as possible, and move the machine in a slow even
manner. This will help keep any swirling down. Once done, you
can apply SSR1 with a polish pad, or for a really nice finish,
use a finish pad. Meguiar's IMO makes the softest and most
shine inducing pad on the market, so I tend to use this
with glazes and fine polishes. With SSR1, I have found best
results when applied liberally to the pad (for priming), and
a stripe over the area being worked. Like with the SSR2.5,
I apply medium/ light pressure, then let off for the remaining
passes. The only difference is that I run the machine between
1200-1500 rpm; I'm out of my comfort level beyond those speeds.

There's a lot more to share with you, but my mind is clay
right now, and it's bedtime. I am sure, though that other
folks will chime in with more useful information.
 
Maybe you should check with the dealership and see if they will pay for the cost of a professional detail. Then you could detail it to your satisfaction. Send them a bill for the supplies and labor. Just a thought. I would imagine that the paint would have some kind of warranty, being as this is a brand new car.
 
Thanks usdm for your help, that was perfect. I've been able to get the paint smooth as glass, but you can just see irregularly shaped outlines in the paint at an angle so I'm not sure there are any more contaminants left on the paint. I'll look into the products you mentioned. I'm going to take some photos tonight and post them.

Jared, I haven't gotten a definitive answer yet, but just from the verbage they've used I can tell they're going to try and weasel out. I'm not going to accept no quietly though. They're assuming it happened after I got the car. It hadn't even rained here yet when I first noticed the spots. The bad thing is, I live 178 miles from the dealer I bought the car from. The local dealer is the reason I drove 178 miles to buy my car where I did. :nono
 
Well, I called the dealer that I bought the car from and my salesman said he's going to see if the manager will reimburse me for getting the spots/flaw removed. The detail shop recommended wet sanding :wait then buffing, but said they'd try just buffing first if I was uncomfortable with sanding. Estimate $125. Fair I think. Then I went to a Subaru dealership collision shop and he said he'd have to remove the scoop and wing and do all this other stuff and that he couldn't guaranty that they wouldn't ruin my clear bra in the process. :dunno So their quote for the same wet sanding and buffing and the possibility of needing a new clear bra $320. :doubleduc Well, I'll get another estimate, send 'em in and see what happens. Wish me luck. :bigups
 
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