Windows Aren't My Favorite Thing To Do

JaredPointer said:
Have had the chance to use these a couple times. I really like them after figuring them out.

#1 - you have to wring them out really well. Like super get a good forearm workout in wring them out. If you don't, you will have moisture left behind.
#2 - While they do list a procedure to deal with "dirty" glass - i.e. glass that has remnants of old cleaner, heavy fog, etc - I didn't follow it. I just came back with another one of the towels the next day.

No streaks, no lint, and I did notice that the windows don't get that high-humidity foggy haze if you put a window down in the morning.

I also used another towel for mirrors in the house and another for in the kitchen, cleaning the microwave, oven dishwasher, toaster oven, etc and one final one for screens - TVs, computer, etc. No streaking, no lint.
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So glad they worked well for you JP.
 
Just another tip for windows, I too dislike them. Unless there is actually stuff on them I have to clean off, example would be marks from cleaners or over spray of chemicals, I just go straight for my chamois and a fresh clean MF. Water is the best polisher for windows and won't leave streaks. Just wipe it with the chamois and polish it dry with the MF. If there is junk on the windows I use the window cleaner first and don't care about streak marks, then polish it to perfection with the first mentioned tip. Doesn't really take much more time. In my experience I'll spend a lot longer chasing streaks with any cleaner than if I just use water and a MF.
 
kenny.bacon- IME how well water works for glass is pretty dependent on water *quality*. Really hard water isn't something I want on my glass ;)
 
Thought I'd throw this out now that I've been using these towels for a few weeks. I left a vehicle sit in the garage, freshly washed for about 10 days without driving it. This was a little crossover with the air deflector that hangs over the back window. Once driven the dust like usual was visible on the rear window. At this point I could see a kind of, for lack of a better description, grain in the direction of my final wipe when cleaning this window. This was not visible at all prior to driving it and letting the dust settle. I'm still very impressed with these towels but there is no question in my mind that something must be left behind for this to happen. I'm wanting to try some of PBL's Glass Coating on the windows and see what happens using these towels with this product on the glass.
 
Accumulator said:
kenny.bacon- IME how well water works for glass is pretty dependent on water *quality*. Really hard water isn't something I want on my glass ;)
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The water "quality" that you use does, indeed, make a difference. I know some of you use distilled water that can be purchased at most major grocery stores for about $0.75 per gallon OR de-ionized water from water-treatment /softeners like CR Spotless.
I use the water from my home de-humidifier for cleaning. Granted, it is NOT truly "distilled" water, but you'd dump that water down a drain anyway, so why not collect it and use it? Chances are most of you reading this have a de-humidifier somewhere in your house.

I've used Stoners Invisible Glass (SIG) and it is OK. Currently I use Sprayway Glass Cleaner. It's OK, too. I've yet to try Meg's Detailer Line Glass Cleaner Concentrate D120. Seems to get a lot of good comments and recommendations for that bulk glass cleaner.

I've tried using 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) on a dedicated microfiber for the initial cleaning of glass to remove any oils, plastic/vinyl gas-off film, and cigarette smoke film residue. Works very well, BUT you do need to follow up with some type of cleaner, either distilled water and a good, clean glass-cleaning microfiber to remove the streaks. Still use Bounty paper toweling due to its absorbency and the fore-mentioned Sprayway, but I know that some of you do not like (fine) paper lint it leaves behind.

On the subject of microfibers, my wife attended a Norwex microfiber party (similar to a home Tupperware party) and got roped into buying the glass cleaning towels. She paid an exorbitant price for a two-cloth system and the soap to clean them, but they do work as advertised. Their claim-to-fame is their proprietary silver-infused fibers, that are naturally anti-bacterial. Not sure how this applies to glass-cleaning microfiber clothes. The first cloth is used for cleaning and feels like a premium nap microfiber that you use clean (distilled) water with to wipe off any "contaminants". The second cloth is more like a traditional glass-cleaning cloth with no nap and used for the final wipe-down to get streak-free glass. Like previous posters have stated, keeping these cloths separate from other microfibers during cleaning is key to keeping them contaminant-free. These clothes are to be cleaned by using Norwex's dishwashing soap and boiling water to clean them. I've done that, and yes, the first cleaning cloth does hold a lot of contaminants that are released with the soap and boiling water. But for the price I could buy ALOT of paper toweling and Sprayway cleaner OR some quality glass-cleaning microfiber cloths. It is an eco-friendly way to clean, though, using clean (distilled) water.
 
Lonnie- Funny how experiences can differ!

(And I wish I didn't have to wait for sales to get distilled water for 75¢!)

Even with distilled or DI, plain water just doesn't work for me... :(

You've reminded me that I need to try the D120 that Bill D sent me *YEARS* ago...sheesh, just never got around to it.

I wasn't all that thrilled by Stoners or Invisible Glass, but I do use Zep40 for heavy-duty glass cleaning when I don't mind an aerosol (daily Tahoe inner window dog-slobber jobs).

I kinda got a kick out of your wife attending the MF party! Also that the Norwex advocates the boiling, seems to be a European thing (I'm assuming the "Nor" in Norwex relates to Norway..).
 
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