will M80 help me?

N

nonsensez9

New member
I have a PC and orange, white, and black LC pads and some M80. Will that correct the paint on my '05 Mustang? Should I start with a milder polish? which pad to start with?



thanks



door

door-panel.JPG




quarter panel

quarter-panel.JPG






EDIT: looks like I'll have to get some 83 - when it's warm enough to do more than just the B-pillar



M80 + White pad

m80_white.JPG




M80 + orange pad

m80_orange.JPG
 
You have some good products there and I was going to suggest exactly what toyotaguy said.

If you ever wanted to add an extra step, you might want to eventually pick up some Meguiars #21, a synthetic sealant. This would be your new third step. My reasoning for #21 is twofold; the sealant gives longer protection than a wax, and if you have access to #80, you probably have access to #21.

Your finishing wax would be the 4th step.

It'll look great without the sealant though, it was just a thought for the future.

-John C.
 
yeah, #80 likely wont completely rid of those swirls...it is fairly mild. But it would reduce them fairly well, and add a great look to that red.



show us some afters!!



BTW, i'm a big #80 fan..and say so every chance i get !!
 
I tested a few areas with M83 + orange pad followed by M80 + white pad. Unfortunately it is not sunny so I can't compare how well it worked. However, with a bright flashlite I can still see swirls. Not as bad as other parts of the car, but they're still there. Either I'll have to be satisified with a pretty good improvement, or I'm going about it improperly.



so a few questions....



1) what speed for 83 and 80 respectively

2) How hard should I press on the PC?

3) How do I know when the product is fully worked?

4) is it detrimental to work the product too long?



thanks
 
nonsensez9 said:
1) what speed for 83 and 80 respectively

2) How hard should I press on the PC?

3) How do I know when the product is fully worked?

4) is it detrimental to work the product too long?
Click to expand...



I'm not fan of/expert on #83 but anyhow..



1) 5 or 6

2) As hard as you can without bogging it down. Using 4" pads will allow you to apply a lot more pressure and will make the PC act more aggressively.

3) It'll "clear out", looking more transparent and less opaque.

4) Yes, "dry buffing" can lead to micromarring as you're grinding the dried powder into the paint. Meguiar's says to wipe off all such products while they're still a little wet and that's always worked best for me.



FWIW I'd pick up something more aggressive for the initial correction (e.g., H-T EC) and I'd use 4" pads for it too.
 
That looks pretty bad for a two year old car. You might want to look at how you are washing and drying that paint to minimize those swirls.
 
jfelbab said:
That looks pretty bad for a two year old car. You might want to look at how you are washing and drying that paint to minimize those swirls.
Click to expand...



I'll second that! My 2005 F250 FX4 Powerstroke looks 100X better and I drive it on gravel roads / no roads all the time.
 
nonsensez9- IMO you need to step up the aggressiveness quite a bit. You're not making the sort of headway I'd like to see if I were doing the work and AFAIK Fork paint isn't all *that* hard.



I'd get some Hi-Temp Extreme Cut and some 4" orange light cutting pads (and a backing plate to work with them). I get such stuff from Top of the Line Auto Detailing Supplies . Not saying you *can't* do it with Meg's stuff, but life is short and hard enough ;) Use that to get things basically marring-free and then follow up with the #80. Oughta work great.



And yeah, you might oughta get your wash/dry regimen sorted out a bit better so you don't have to do this again any time soon ;)
 
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