Will claybar remove wax?
- Thread starter OUCH
- Start date
02 LTZ
New member
A claybar will remove everything that is on the clearcoat.
So if you use a clay bar, you will have to start over with your polish & wax.
So if you use a clay bar, you will have to start over with your polish & wax.
socaltiger
New member
It will remove wax and you should rewax right after you clay.
Generally though, you should plan on starting over when you do a clay job. I wouldn't rely on it as a wax stripper of course.VetteToVair
New member
Lynn said:
Did that info come from Sal...?
Nick T.
New member
Here’s my two cents on the subject:
In the claying process as used by detailers the clay should never actually touch the surface of the paint or protectant. If you use enough lubricant and light enough pressure, then the clay rides on a film of lubricant - kinda like a tire hydroplaning on a wet road. Embedded particles protrude up through the lube film and are grabbed by the clay. In the real world I’m pretty certain that at time we all use too much pressure on the clay, and as a result some of the underlying protectant is remove (and maybe some marring occurs).
A common misconception about clay is that it grinds off the embedded debris - it doesn’t. Detailing clay is a polymer formulated to grab the contaminants with its stickiness and pull them out of the paint. That why you can’t substitute Play Dough, modeling clay, art clay, etc. for detailing clay and have any success.
Paint shops may use an abrasive clay - like red Clay Magic - and this is a whole new game.
In the claying process as used by detailers the clay should never actually touch the surface of the paint or protectant. If you use enough lubricant and light enough pressure, then the clay rides on a film of lubricant - kinda like a tire hydroplaning on a wet road. Embedded particles protrude up through the lube film and are grabbed by the clay. In the real world I’m pretty certain that at time we all use too much pressure on the clay, and as a result some of the underlying protectant is remove (and maybe some marring occurs).
A common misconception about clay is that it grinds off the embedded debris - it doesn’t. Detailing clay is a polymer formulated to grab the contaminants with its stickiness and pull them out of the paint. That why you can’t substitute Play Dough, modeling clay, art clay, etc. for detailing clay and have any success.
Paint shops may use an abrasive clay - like red Clay Magic - and this is a whole new game.
imported_Intel486
New member
The clay will weaken the coat of wax as it pulls contaminents out of it but I don't think it totally removes it.
Clay is simply sliding across the surface pulling stuff out of the paint. It isn't polishing away a layer of paint like a polish does.
Clay is simply sliding across the surface pulling stuff out of the paint. It isn't polishing away a layer of paint like a polish does.
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Patrick
Guest
My claying experience yields similiar results as Intel, but i think Im slightly more aggressive then Nicks statement. I kind of "get into" my claying ritual. Theres a fine line between using too much lube, and not enough. You use too much, and, like Nick said, you hydroplane across the surface, not allowing the clay to reach embedded contaminants, whos edges may be smoothed over by attrition, i.e. Qd's, CD's etc....Not enough, you run the risk of residue, and an all around bad experience.....Then again, this thread didnt mention which grade of clay were even talking about....But i think generally speaking, your still left with adequate protection, for a minimal time....It should be regular practice however, to apply some sort of protection after a clay treatment. Claying is usually indicative or preping your surface anyway.....Normally speaking, Autopians dont like the word "Adequate"......
Accumulator
Well-known member
In my experience claying does NOT remove an appreciable amount of wax or sealant, but I believe I go about it quite gently. I spot-clay my vehicles with almost every wash, and my KSG/BFII/3M Show Car Paste/Collinite all appear to survive the claying just fine. The aforementioned products last me many months, so I'd notice a need to reapply. Note that gently claying contaminants off a well protected, otherwise "clean" surface is different from removing something that's really "taken hold" and/or been on there for a while.
OUCH- Even if you need to redo the hood, I'd get those contaminants off of it before they do some permanent damage.
OUCH- Even if you need to redo the hood, I'd get those contaminants off of it before they do some permanent damage.
Whether or not it removes all of the wax on the surface, I think it would prudent to go ahead and presume that you'll need to rewax--that is if you already clayed your entire car. For one, the wax barrier as been degraded from the washing to a certain extent, and now that the clay is applied, it become even less resistant.
Also, there are areas on certain body panels where you do have to apply a little pressure to remove some stupporn contaminents. When I was claying my mother's white LHS, there were so many tiny black specs in the paint that required 5, 10, even 20 passes just to remove them. This kind of thing required more QD and pressure than usual.
Also, there are areas on certain body panels where you do have to apply a little pressure to remove some stupporn contaminents. When I was claying my mother's white LHS, there were so many tiny black specs in the paint that required 5, 10, even 20 passes just to remove them. This kind of thing required more QD and pressure than usual.
Nick T.
New member
Well said!Acura_RL said:
The other side of this same coin is that you cannot depend on the clay having removed all of the wax/protectant that happens to be on the paint. If product removal is the goal, then it must be attacked as a separate issue.
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Patrick
Guest
What do you gain if you dont vs. what do you gain if you do ....
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Patrick
Guest
thats a start, not to mention a better looking/feeling surface !